Hi,
Billy posted on the Eurocharged thread a different approach to preparing his car for a remap by Jerry, this included a few checks to ensure his car was suffering from minimal if no boost leaks, plus a few other jobs to complete preparation. Quite a few questions have been asked with regard to which parts, where located, how fitted, how long did it take, is it DIY or Indie supported, costs etc etc......
Billy has asked if I can post up his responses and pics so here goes....
Original quote;
Billy's replies to my questions;
Do you have the part numbers etc for the metal gaskets between the S/C and
inlets, and did you do this job yourself, if so how long did it take to do?
Removing the supercharger was done by a merc engineer it's a pretty hard job and
take approx 3-4 hours, but I helped clean the surfaces of the metal faces
,
and changed the supercharger oil, using Mobil Jet oil II a syringe to refill
after tipping out the old do not over fill, it must be a level surface and fill
just as it comes out the drain hole, I did the air valves my r/hand gasket was
shot and leaking, and the top inlets pretty easy to be honest, torque for the
valves and inlet was 9nm, I can do this in around 1 hour and taking my time
Where is the rear Y Pipe you have referred to where you changed the O Ring and
do you have the part number?
I will send over a pic
Where is the front air valve, do you have the part numbers for the metal gaskets
and did you do this yourself or have them fitted?
Easy job but a bit fiddly allow 1 hour to change and you can only do these once
the top inlets are off
Do you have the number for the rubber bung for the S/C vent pipe ( revised part
number), did you fit this?
Again an easy job, do this when you remove the supercharger etc, or you can do
by removing the top air boxes takes about 20 mins
Pictures to support the above with associated diagram reference numbers;
2 x 206 note 203 & 200 ares the air valves you have to remove the air inlets to do these
1 x 191
1 x 194
And 2 x front screws
You will require
Supercharger gasket 122 now I cant see the other side so you will have to check with merc as these may be sided
1 x gasket 29
1 x gasket 170
1 x 23 which is the new rubber bung for the metal vent pipe
Now I did not strip the charge cooler from the supercharger, so suggest you leave this as is
The part no for the o ring for the rear I don’t have, as I just asked the parts guy to get me one in, but it’s a easy swap, and when you push it back on the TB you will feel its much tighter
If you can post all this info for others mate would be appreciated
Hope this helps..........
Billy posted on the Eurocharged thread a different approach to preparing his car for a remap by Jerry, this included a few checks to ensure his car was suffering from minimal if no boost leaks, plus a few other jobs to complete preparation. Quite a few questions have been asked with regard to which parts, where located, how fitted, how long did it take, is it DIY or Indie supported, costs etc etc......
Billy has asked if I can post up his responses and pics so here goes....
Original quote;
Billy's replies to my questions;
Do you have the part numbers etc for the metal gaskets between the S/C and
inlets, and did you do this job yourself, if so how long did it take to do?
Removing the supercharger was done by a merc engineer it's a pretty hard job and
take approx 3-4 hours, but I helped clean the surfaces of the metal faces
, and changed the supercharger oil, using Mobil Jet oil II a syringe to refill
after tipping out the old do not over fill, it must be a level surface and fill
just as it comes out the drain hole, I did the air valves my r/hand gasket was
shot and leaking, and the top inlets pretty easy to be honest, torque for the
valves and inlet was 9nm, I can do this in around 1 hour and taking my time
Where is the rear Y Pipe you have referred to where you changed the O Ring and
do you have the part number?
I will send over a pic
Where is the front air valve, do you have the part numbers for the metal gaskets
and did you do this yourself or have them fitted?
Easy job but a bit fiddly allow 1 hour to change and you can only do these once
the top inlets are off
Do you have the number for the rubber bung for the S/C vent pipe ( revised part
number), did you fit this?
Again an easy job, do this when you remove the supercharger etc, or you can do
by removing the top air boxes takes about 20 mins
Pictures to support the above with associated diagram reference numbers;
2 x 206 note 203 & 200 ares the air valves you have to remove the air inlets to do these
1 x 191
1 x 194
And 2 x front screws
You will require
Supercharger gasket 122 now I cant see the other side so you will have to check with merc as these may be sided
1 x gasket 29
1 x gasket 170
1 x 23 which is the new rubber bung for the metal vent pipe
Now I did not strip the charge cooler from the supercharger, so suggest you leave this as is
The part no for the o ring for the rear I don’t have, as I just asked the parts guy to get me one in, but it’s a easy swap, and when you push it back on the TB you will feel its much tighter
If you can post all this info for others mate would be appreciated
Hope this helps..........
