CLK Condensation

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design guru

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Joined
Feb 28, 2004
Messages
486
Location
Hampshire
Car
2001 W220 Mercedes S320cdi & 2001 W208 CLK230K (SORN since 2008)
My W208 CLK is currently sorn and is sitting in my driveway. I have noticed during cold nights in the morning the windscreen has water drops on the inside! I do not use the car, I only start it once a week. I do not turn the air on , just let the engine turn for 5 minutes.

I have reset the windows and closed all the vents. I have also checked the passenger footwell to make sure the drains are not blocked and overflowed. I cleared the passenger side drains a few weeks back and they seemed pretty clear. Not sure how you access the drivers side one.

Can anyone suggest the process to clear the driver side and what maybe the cause of the condensation.
 
Have you tried unsealing the vents?

I'm wondering whether you are trapping moist air that is condensing on the windows because the car is sealed up...
 
My W208 CLK is currently sorn and is sitting in my driveway. I have noticed during cold nights in the morning the windscreen has water drops on the inside! I do not use the car, I only start it once a week. I do not turn the air on , just let the engine turn for 5 minutes.

I have reset the windows and closed all the vents. I have also checked the passenger footwell to make sure the drains are not blocked and overflowed. I cleared the passenger side drains a few weeks back and they seemed pretty clear. Not sure how you access the drivers side one.

Can anyone suggest the process to clear the driver side and what maybe the cause of the condensation.

Every time you enter the car your breath will stay in the air to later condense

You're running then engine for 5 minutes (which won't suffer if you didn't) yet you leave the air conditioning off which (a) will suffer if not run regularly and (b) will help with reducing condensation for the minutes it's running!

:confused:
 
Does aircon actually function below 6 or so degrees C?
 
Does aircon actually function below 6 or so degrees C?

I think its something like about 3, at least mine seems that way but you can cheat it. I'd say that only 5 minutes stationary running every week is far too little, you would be best with something like an hour to really charge the battery and warm the oil etc. Dont leave it simply ticking over though, take the RPM up to 3000/3500 occasionally once its getting warm and cycle the P-D-R-N a bit while on tickover with the footbrake on, handbrake off.

The trick? The a/c takes its info from the sensor near the foglights / in the apron and when the engine has been running for a while the car "assumes" a higher than ambient temperature around it, you could even pop the foglights on which seems to help, once this temperature gets above 3 you can run the a/c. Best to run it every time and for about 10-15 mins.

HTH?
Portzy.
 
My W208 CLK is currently sorn and is sitting in my driveway. I have noticed during cold nights in the morning the windscreen has water drops on the inside! I do not use the car, I only start it once a week. I do not turn the air on , just let the engine turn for 5 minutes.

I have reset the windows and closed all the vents. I have also checked the passenger footwell to make sure the drains are not blocked and overflowed. I cleared the passenger side drains a few weeks back and they seemed pretty clear. Not sure how you access the drivers side one.

Can anyone suggest the process to clear the driver side and what maybe the cause of the condensation.
If it's cold then turn the heater & air con on to demist the inside of the windscreen,as others have said you wil be much better driving the car for a while if you can(5 or so minutes on tickover really won't do much as far as charging the battery goes).
 
I hate to say it. but if you only run the car for 5 mins or so, you could well end up with far worse condensation issues in the long run. And ones your a/c can't help you with.

By that, I mean that your engine block, and exhaust, will be gradually filling with condensation too. This causes real problems later on in life when the moisture in the engine causes oil contamination, and the acids in the exhaust eat their own way out - through the steel. This is the main reason why it is always the back boxes and the surrounding pipework where an exhaust system fails - because it doesn't properly warm up and the acidic moisture corrodes the metal.

Run the car for half an hour minimum. Preferably until the cooling fans cut in. Then the engine block condensation can have chance to evaporate, and ditto the moisture in the exhaust. And finally the a/c has chance to work on the interior, and keep itself lubricated into the bargain.

And we haven't looked at the tyres yet either...
 
Bingo!

They will feel like driving on 50p pieces after standing on one spot for a long time. Either take the weight off the tyres, or put something like 45+psi in them to help keep their shape.
 
Bingo!

They will feel like driving on 50p pieces after standing on one spot for a long time. Either take the weight off the tyres, or put something like 45+psi in them to help keep their shape.

The tyres are all in need of replacing so I am not to concerned and I have a full set of AMG alloys in the garage which I intend to fit on when I decide to get the car back on the road. Good tip on the 45psi, I'll pass that on.
 
IIRC it takes 20 minutes of driving to put back into the battery what starting takes out , so 5 minutes won't be doing your battery any favours.

A small dehumidifier will sort your problems.
 

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