Remote control / Accessory wire in W211 boot?
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OP
OP
OK, so I think I've made some progress on this - I hope this will be a useful post for others who are trying to do something like this!
I found a fuse guide for an E320CDI 2004 which seems to have a similar layout i.e. Fuse 14 is not used in the diagram it seems - and nor is there a fuse in mine.
I can see that:
Fuse 12 = 15A = Plug Socket Trunk
Fuse 13 = 15A = Plug Socket Rear
Fuse 14 = 5A = Nothing
I understand only the estate has a trunk/boot plug socket (I can't find one in mine) - and the rear one I guess is under the centre console for rear passengers.
I am going to ground to the chassis as I read someone this is worth doing to avoid situations relating to a flat battery.
Is there any reason why I can't take the power for the active subwoofer (15A rated fuse inline with the power on it) and take the switched remote control from Fuse 12 (or even just the power from Fuse 12 and the remote from Fuse 14 if not)?
I can then use the high level input and take the input from the stock sub, which would remain disabled and probably has low pass filtering already.
I found a fuse guide for an E320CDI 2004 which seems to have a similar layout i.e. Fuse 14 is not used in the diagram it seems - and nor is there a fuse in mine.
I can see that:
Fuse 12 = 15A = Plug Socket Trunk
Fuse 13 = 15A = Plug Socket Rear
Fuse 14 = 5A = Nothing
I understand only the estate has a trunk/boot plug socket (I can't find one in mine) - and the rear one I guess is under the centre console for rear passengers.
I am going to ground to the chassis as I read someone this is worth doing to avoid situations relating to a flat battery.
Is there any reason why I can't take the power for the active subwoofer (15A rated fuse inline with the power on it) and take the switched remote control from Fuse 12 (or even just the power from Fuse 12 and the remote from Fuse 14 if not)?
I can then use the high level input and take the input from the stock sub, which would remain disabled and probably has low pass filtering already.
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- E63s s213 2019, E55 2004 Silver-SOLD, E63 w212 Weistec AMG-SOLD, E55 2004-SOLD, C36 1997-SOLD
no reason why not, Rear sam would be the best option
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2002
- Messages
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- London\Essex
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- E63s s213 2019, E55 2004 Silver-SOLD, E63 w212 Weistec AMG-SOLD, E55 2004-SOLD, C36 1997-SOLD
I would take power for the amp directly from the battery and use the same with a small fuse for the remote wire.
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2002
- Messages
- 7,627
- Location
- London\Essex
- Car
- E63s s213 2019, E55 2004 Silver-SOLD, E63 w212 Weistec AMG-SOLD, E55 2004-SOLD, C36 1997-SOLD
hey,
maybe not being clear, rear SAM, a switched connection can be got from here for the remote wire so it switches the unit off and on.
maybe not being clear, rear SAM, a switched connection can be got from here for the remote wire so it switches the unit off and on.
OP
OP
Ah got you.
I thought the SAM might have been something other than the unit with fuses / relays in it!
The Pioneer unit has a 0.5A fuse inline with the remote so it should be OK.
Why would you take the power straight from the battery instead - any particular reason?
I used to do this in the old days but AGW, SAM and fibre optics in cars wasn't heard of then!
I thought the SAM might have been something other than the unit with fuses / relays in it!
The Pioneer unit has a 0.5A fuse inline with the remote so it should be OK.
Why would you take the power straight from the battery instead - any particular reason?
I used to do this in the old days but AGW, SAM and fibre optics in cars wasn't heard of then!
