Running in period....

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sparkynw

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Jul 15, 2012
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Oop North
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BMW X4 335d MSport,MINI Countryman SD JCW, vivaro sport, nc30, cbr600rr
Hi all, I am 600 miles in on my cla45 and I'm resisting sport + just about!
I've read a lot about the need to baby the car for the first 1k but as there's no run in oil to change and the things are so well engineered I'm curious as to why so many miles are necessary to 'bed' things in? Ok the first 100 maybe or if different oil was required over a certain engine temp but why so long? As I say I live my car and will do what is necessary I'm just not a mechanical engineer and wonder what the reasons are? I've also read to use the paddles, don't use them? Motorway miles don't count??:dk:
 
Hi all, I am 600 miles in on my cla45 and I'm resisting sport + just about!
I've read a lot about the need to baby the car for the first 1k but as there's no run in oil to change and the things are so well engineered I'm curious as to why so many miles are necessary to 'bed' things in? Ok the first 100 maybe or if different oil was required over a certain engine temp but why so long? As I say I live my car and will do what is necessary I'm just not a mechanical engineer and wonder what the reasons are? I've also read to use the paddles, don't use them? Motorway miles don't count??:dk:

Seen as you seem to be still living in the 1970's why not sick a sign in the back window saying "running in" and drive up the M1 at 40 mph ? :D

Seriously, modern engines and oil negates the need for excessive running in.
 
Last couple of new cars I've had, last one in 2010 stated in the manual to not exceed 4,000rpm for 600 miles or over 80mph!
 
As the manufacturer gives specific instructions for the break in period, it's safe to assume that there are sound reasons for following them.

As a general principle, you should avoid sustained high rpm and / or high load at the start of the running in period, but as it progresses it's safe to let the engine rev progressively higher for short periods and to load it up more too. It's a combination of heat cycling and varying load patterns that allows an engine to bed in, rather than just droning along at constant speed for (say) 1,000 miles. This is where the "motorway miles don't count" notion comes from. It's not true in total, but you do need to vary the speed and engine load.

The biggest mistake that people make is pussyfooting around for the entire break in period and then, because the odometer has reached the magic number, giving it full beans. It needs to be a gradual process, building up to regular unrestricted use of maximum performance.

Remember also that it's not just the engine that's being run in. It's the entire drive train, and the brakes too.
 
Running in? Pah!

Kick its head in, it's under warranty isn't it!
 
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Drive down to MSL (Birmingham) to get it "run in" straight on Dyno for tuning box or remap.....job done
 
Get it up to temperature then drive it up long, steep hills repeatedly.

It'll work better for it.
 
Running in? Pah!

Kick its head in, it's under warranty isn't it!

It is of course however could I be ****d waiting for the investigation to prove I'd kicked its head in before 1000miles at which point they show me the data and hand me the bill nah....
There's also a big sticker on the windscreen advising that the car WAS built in 1970 and so requires a gentle break in period.
The dealer explained at handover that if you don't follow procedure and it goes **** up before 1000 miles they won't cover you. Porsche follow similar principles and happily avoid as many warranty claims as they can for engine failures.
Trust me I can't wait to ring its neck!!:thumb:
 
Seen as you seem to be still living in the 1970's why not sick a sign in the back window saying "running in" and drive up the M1 at 40 mph ? :D

Seriously, modern engines and oil negates the need for excessive running in.

I bet you wish you could edit your post now! :wallbash:
 
As the manufacturer gives specific instructions for the break in period, it's safe to assume that there are sound reasons for following them.
Remember also that it's not just the engine that's being run in. It's the entire drive train, and the brakes too.

Whot he said ^^^^^- people equate running in with the engine but there are lots of other new "surfaces" all "getting to know each other" . Wheel bearings, gearbox clutches gears and bearings, driveshaft U/Js numerous electric motors and associated drives come to mind. :dk:
 
Pretty sure it's all there in the handbook, much more reliable information than what one may read on the internet...
 
On the only two cars I've had new I drove steadily but normally for the first 1000 then had an oil change to get rid of all the swarf.

As long as you dont thrash its nuts off when its stone cold, which is a stupid thing to do to any engine at any age, you'll be fine.
 
And don't labour the engine, which is hard to do in an automatic...
 
Get it up to temperature then drive it up long, steep hills repeatedly.

It'll work better for it.
Put it on the ferry and take it to the Isle of Man. - Run it over the mountain a couple of times; if that doesn't run it in, nothing will.
 
Just give it an increasingly varied workload as you approach the 1500km (less than 1000 miles :) )mark

The second mine ticked over 1500km I launched the hell out of it. Over 100 launches, lots of mods and 20k+ miles later and it was as tight as a nut! Just make sure you are as sympathetic with the equipment as you are firm with it.
 
Put it on the ferry and take it to the Isle of Man. - Run it over the mountain a couple of times; if that doesn't run it in, nothing will.

Can't wait for next June to be over that mountain again...
 
What is it with this running in all it takes is one day to clock up 1000 miles.
South of France then on the way back give it some pastie over the alps :)
 

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