W220 ABS ESP Fault Visit Workshop

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TrickyS320

Member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
56
Car
S320 CDI Limo
Hi I have a sort of simple question to ask for assistant for please but guess best to start from beginning.

I had a ball joint that needed replacing on the front off side suspension (lower outer). I took everything apart making sure the speed sensor was protected and tried to ensure the tracking rod arm was not undone. The ball joint was then replaced by a garage. I fitted everything back together and after a short drive I had the ABS ESP etc visit workshop appear. I took it to the garage and they fitted a new speed sensor non OEM but it did not resolve the problem but made the brakes to start pumping erratically so the old sensor was put back on. It was then found the plate the sensor his housed in had out a bit bent so that was adjusted. It seemed better but faults came back on. I had the tracking checked and it was adjusted. A genuine sensor was fitted but came up with same codes C1112-001 implausible values loose contact and C1101-005 unknown fault type: 5. So old sensor was but back. The air gap was checked and adjusted again and it ran ok for a day then faults came up again. If I turned off the car then started and drove over 40 mph quickly then it ran ok as soon as the speed dropped below 40 mph fault appeared.The cables was all tested back to the ESP module and was told they were all OK. Another code appeared upon testing again which I don't have the code number but was told the ESP + PML + BAS was checked and when opened appeared to have water damage. Due to cost of over £800 it was suggested I look for a second hand unit to see if that cures the problem.

So my unit has the following numbers:
220 545 35 32 Q01
ESP+PML+BAS FD 03M12
Bosch 0 265 109 754
HW: 16/03
SW: 16/03
03-12-11
DKKP50030358

So my question is out of all these numbers on my module are there any numbers I can ignore in order to give me a straight forward replacement please?

My model is 2004 W220 S320 CDI Limo VIN: WDB2201252A411295

Appreciate any info in advance thank you.

Richard
 
Last edited:
I know this is a three year old thread, but I am having the same problem.
When I got the car back on the road, there was speed sensor faults on both sides front.
I swapped both sensors, and it cured the left, but not the right.
I took it to the main dealer, and he diagnosed that the plug was not in all the way, so that cured that.
Then the left sensor packed up again, so I took it to the garage to have my MOT done, and cure the sensor fault he cured that, but while it was in the garage the right one packed up again, he passed the car because the ABS light was not illuminating while the test was performed (I think he was desperate to get it out of the workshop!).
So I ordered a new sensor, and a new ABS etc module, even though I knew where the problem lay.
Neither worked, so I tore that flaming PITA sensor socket out of the wing, and plugged it in properly, I didnt shove it back in, in case it didnt work.
It worked fine for a while, but after a couple of minutes, the warnings came back on, and the steering went stiff, but not as stiff as before.
Obviously the right front sensor controls the steering speed control, where the steering stiffens up as you go faster, and because there is/was no signal from the sensor, it defaults to at speed, and makes the steering stiff.
If the ABS light and warnings are not on then the steering is nice and light.
Anyhow, I am going to swap the module back to the original, in case this replacement module is faulty, but I think the fault may well lie in the sensor socket.
If I read live data, then the sensor is reading the same speed as all the other sensors.
However, I am thinking that if it loses contact for even an nth of a second, it will throw the code, and cause the heavy steering, and because the code wont erase itself, it will stay current until it is manually erased.

So my questions are.
Is there a speed at which something kicks in on the system that could cause the code?
Can the socket be replaced?
Where can I get a socket from?
If I really had to, could I just bypass the socket, and solder the wires going into the plug directly to the wires going into the socket, or would the altered resistance cause problems because of the low current coming out of the sensor?

Thanks.
63295-dcfbb87b83ab3fbd6e474f45cc32a652.jpg
 
OK more information.
The ABS light and the ABS BAS etc warnings come on betweent 31 and 32 MPH.
The steering goes heavyish, and the cruise control no longer functions.
Below 31 MPH all of these are fine, I can drive with the cruise control set at 28MPH all day without problems.
This is 31MPH as indicated on the dashboard, so could be 30MPH.
Anyone know of anything that cuts in at 30MPH that could affect this system?
The annoying thing is that turning the ignition off does not clear the codes, and the steering remains heavy after restart, it can only be cleared with a manual OBD2 wipe.
 
I have the same issue but using my iCarsoft MBii scanner its pointing to the steering wheel angle sensor mounted behind the steering wheel itself, I have no codes showing for the ABS wheel speed sensors
 
I have the same issue but using my iCarsoft MBii scanner its pointing to the steering wheel angle sensor mounted behind the steering wheel itself, I have no codes showing for the ABS wheel speed sensors
Yep, replaced that with a new one, and the clockspring just in case.

I have come to the conclusion that taking my car to a garage is a waste of time and money.
I took the S55 to the nearest main dealer to have the ABS problem diagnosed.
After an hour and a half, he thinks it may be because the speed sensor is not genuine MB.
To be fair, I have heard that non-MB sensors can be a bit of a gamble, but this is the second one, the first worked OK for a while, then the fault started after a local garage replaced the hub on the passenger side to cure that side sensor not working!
They also did the MOT on the car.
When I got it home, I noticed the emergency brake went straight to the floor!
the mechanic today at the main dealer said there were no cables present, so how the hell did it pass the MOT???

Then on the way back from the main dealer, the engine was running like a bag of crap, flat to the point of lifelessness mid throttle, fine on low and full throttle.
read the codes on getting home, and it said the intake manifold had got too hot!
Its never done this before, and I did the same trip a couple of months ago, and have done plenty of town driving since, so what he did, I dont know.

So I am done with garages, as far as engine and electrics are concerned.

Rant over.
 

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