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Yes, I changed the supercharger oil and coupler as I suspected it was worn and causing unnecessary noise. I used Mobil Jet II as many have recommended it, plus it was considerably cheaper and I could get hold of it easily. Supercharger on my '03 SLK 230 is Eaton M45 (similar to that used...

Mobil Jet Oil II is perfectly satisfactory, price around £12/litre. Removing the supercharger is relatively simple although it can be a rather fiddly actually getting it out. The Drain/Fill plug can be a real b*st*rd to shift. Worth considering splitting the front casing, at least that way...

You can get Mobil jet II from any aviation supplier, there are plenty on-line. It usually comes in a 1 US-quart size tin, price is around £12. Alternatively you can go to your automotive supplier who will happily sell you the same stuff repackaged and rebranded as "supercharger oil" at 10...

Normal procedure for valve stem seal replacement calls for the cylinder head to be removed, in which case it is a no brainer to do them all. However, it is worth considering the rope trick which means you don't need to take the head off but you still have to remove the valve cover, camshaft...

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Have discovered my cheepo code scanner only reads engine codes. Got hold of a better code reader which now clearly shows fault with rear left speed sensor. Also now able to view live data from each sensor while the vehicle is in motion and can see that rear left is not working. So I guess the...

Looking at live data from my vehicle, under the Engine Management System there is a "fault counter" for each cylinder. Cylinders 1, 3 & 4 show value 0, cylinder 2 shows value 2. Can anyone tell me what this means please? Vehicle is R170 SLK230, code reader is iCarSoft i980.

I have EML warning light and error code P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor "A". Does anyone know which corner this is please (R170) ?

Changed the brake light switch on Saturday, no change. This morning the EML light came on as well. Later I managed to extract stored fault code P0500 (vehicle speed sensor) which it wasn't showing previously. So it is looking more likely that I have a faulty ABS ring or sensor. Now...

Good point, I will poke around and check the wiring to the sensors - I was working on the hubs and brakes a few weeks ago.

Update: Checked all the fuses I could find, 3 fuse boxes, around 50 fuses, all OK. Checked battery voltage, engine not running, 11.5V (1 volt better than my 4-yr old golf!). Engine has always spun strongly on the starter and started immediately so I don't think the battery is the issue...

Thanks for the suggestions, I will take a look tomorrow.

Driving home this evening the ABS and BAS/ESP warning lights came on together, and remain on after restarting. Any ideas please? Vehicle is SLK230 R170 @ 87,000 miles, regularly serviced and a daily runner.

Because it is a bodge. If this is not fixed properly it affect the correct operation of the whole airbag system and in the worst case cause it not to deploy when required. How much value do you place on your life or those of your passengers?

Have you tried EuroCarParts?

Thanks, will give it a try next time when I next time I have to poke around down there.

Could be almost anything: Exhaust system, suspension bushes, broken spring (can be hard to spot), anti-roll bar bushes, spare wheel or jack jumping around the boot ....

What is the washer trick?

Most likely possibilities would be: Worn Bushes Incorrect tyre pressures and/or non-matching tyres Knackered or un-matched springs A damaged or bent suspension arm or upright (accident damage) Bent wheel Also, you need to check the front for all or the above, not just the rear. Get someone...

If it were something like worn driveshaft CV joints, propshaft joints, diff, etc then you would expect to notice it changing both up and down and not specific to certain gears, although it might be worse in the lower gears due to the higher torque being transmitted through these components...