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ABC - am I right?

cb1965

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OK My SL55 has always had a habit of leaning to one side at the front after being left for a few weeks and when you get in and start her up the dash would proclaim the car is too low.

Press the ABC button and the car rises and all is well... you can drive it normally with no issues and no problem until she was left again for a couple of weeks.

Now this has started to happen after just a couple of days, but again you can still use the car as above, however I can't help but feel that complete failure is on the way if it is not addressed.

There is no fluid leaking visibly and all seemed well with the fluid level. Mercedes Whitefield inspected the system and could find no leaks, the pump had been replaced by the previous owner in 2012 at Mercedes Reading and the car passed the 'rodeo test'.

Mercedes Whitefield replaced the filters and ABC fluid, but the problem still persists.

So now I and they think it is narrowed down to the front valve block. Do I just bite the bullet and replace it or go for a dismantle/clean/replace O rings a la the various videos on YouTube?

Is there anything else it could be?
 
depends on two things - how good you are at DIY and/or how deep your pockets are!
 
depends on two things - how good you are at DIY and/or how deep your pockets are!

The DIY thing is not an issue, I have a mate with a garage and we can do the job, but like he said... if we do it and spend the time and expense of more fluid etc. and it does not work it would be a PITA! None of the videos or posts I have seen claim a 100% success rate!

Then again I believe the replacement part is wincingly expensive!

It's at times like this I wonder if I shouldn't just chop the car in for something more reliable and less complex!
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like a DIY job may be on the cards.
 
The DIY thing is not an issue, I have a mate with a garage and we can do the job, but like he said... if we do it and spend the time and expense of more fluid etc. and it does not work it would be a PITA! None of the videos or posts I have seen claim a 100% success rate!

Then again I believe the replacement part is wincingly expensive!

It's at times like this I wonder if I shouldn't just chop the car in for something more reliable and less complex!

Chris, cant help you bud, but just to say hang on in there! I feel your pain, mine just went in for a service and a general check over as there was a knocking/clunking noise from the from end when reversing & turning the wheel approx 5mph, turns out it needs new caster arms and ancillaries, brake line to SBC pump heavily corroded, full replacement of brake fluid. All of which will relieve me of approx another 1k :eek: Hope this is the end of it all, and I can simply pop my new steering wheel on and off I go. I know exactly where you are coming from, but £ for £ what else gives you the smiles. As we both know, when they are behaving themselves they are the very top of their game!

Hope you get it sorted without too much of hassle. :thumb:
 
So now I and they think it is narrowed down to the front valve block. Do I just bite the bullet and replace it or go for a dismantle/clean/replace O rings a la the various videos on YouTube?
Yes, definitely overhaul it yourself. I wouldn't say it was EASY, but its definitely DIY capable. There are lots of threads on all the MB forums about people who have done this successfully.

Just remember to keep everything clean, and remamber how everything goes back together!

While you're at it, lift up the suspension to force the oil out of the struts and pipes - you'll be surprised how dirty it is.

nick
 
While you're at it, lift up the suspension to force the oil out of the struts and pipes - you'll be surprised how dirty it is.

nick

Nick, when forcing the suspension up, how does the fluid go back in to ensure no air lock in the strut. I'm guessing like a brake bleed with fresh fluid ready to be sucked in when lowering it again before re connecting to the quick coupling.

Seeing as there is no circuit as such, just <> to the strut I can't see a path for the fluid to push the air out. Through the valve block and back to the resovoir yes but the dead leg at each strut I'm not sure.

Any help appreciated.

:cool:
 
Solenoid current @ 12Vdc= 2.5 Amps
Solenoid static resistance 4.5 Ohms.

Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)

inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width____qty per block___qty per car
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16____4_____________8
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16____6_____________12
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16____2_____________4
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16____4_____________8
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16____4_____________8
 

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