glowplug stuck
- Thread starter clk320x
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streethawk
MB Enthusiast
Did you have the engine hot as this will help
wu56Shoozz
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A can of coke around it.. the bubbles cause cavitation and release the seal formed...
Can you get something small to grab it and rotate it back and forth...
Can you get something small to grab it and rotate it back and forth...
OneForTheRoad
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try to tighten it a bit 1st . and use penetrating fluid , wd40 is shyte .
Well first make sure the area around the glowplug is free from debris blow it out with compressed air or lung power,then put penetrating oil around it this is so out of fashion when I gave my son a spray can of it he said whats this for
leave it for a few hours and then try it again slightly do it up a bit and then try to undo it.
leave it for a few hours and then try it again slightly do it up a bit and then try to undo it.
D
Deleted member 6183
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This is why my W211 had the light on for 3 years.
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Loctite do a release spray that goes down to minus 40 degree C , shrinks the nut/bolt interface for a few seconds allowing the penetrant to get further into the threads than normal sprays. I can't remember the exact name of it (Google) I needed some at work and got it from Brammer (Formerly BSL). I have used it a few times with good results.
Is it possible to hire an Induction heat kit ? It is what most sensible garages use on stubborn glow plugs. Good luck.
Is it possible to hire an Induction heat kit ? It is what most sensible garages use on stubborn glow plugs. Good luck.
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
As said you are wasting your time with WD40. Try PlusGas.
MancMike
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Or shock 'n' unlock. Penetrating fluid and freeze spray combined. Cheap from halfords.
Doggysitter
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All of the above is good and I have used coke once or twice, however I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer or a really good indy because if it snaps off your looking at a rather large bill to drill it out and then ream and retap the thread.
When mine wouldn't come out I used engine oil. Every time I used the car I lubed it up and got the engine hot then re lubed it when the car was still hot and parked up so it penetrated deep into the threads. I did this for about two weeks and then, when I felt brave and didn't need the car for a few days I attacked it with a deep socket that was a tight fit. First I tried to tighten it up just a smidge then try to loosen it, just a smidge though. A bit like when your recutting a new thread (if you have ever done this). Kept doing this and eventually it cracked and came out.
While I was trying to loosen it on the final day the engine was hot and I started loosening it a bit, then backed it off to slightly re tighten it, then relubed and carried this process on untill it came out.
They should never be wound back in and tightened without a torque wrench. They dont need to be tightened very tight, something like 14nm but you would need to check this figure as I may be wrong.
Get replacements from a dealer for your car, not Euro car parts or some generic car shop or you will be doing the job again sooner rather that later. Hate to say it but the Merc ones seem to outlast cheaper alternatives. I know other members will probably disagree!
Best of luck CLK320x, they are a pig when stuck.
My no 4 by the bulkhead firewall on a OM611 engine needs doing and I keep putting it off, I'd rather have a root canal than do it!
BTW, what engine do you have in your car? I might have some instructions the dealer gave me.
When mine wouldn't come out I used engine oil. Every time I used the car I lubed it up and got the engine hot then re lubed it when the car was still hot and parked up so it penetrated deep into the threads. I did this for about two weeks and then, when I felt brave and didn't need the car for a few days I attacked it with a deep socket that was a tight fit. First I tried to tighten it up just a smidge then try to loosen it, just a smidge though. A bit like when your recutting a new thread (if you have ever done this). Kept doing this and eventually it cracked and came out.
While I was trying to loosen it on the final day the engine was hot and I started loosening it a bit, then backed it off to slightly re tighten it, then relubed and carried this process on untill it came out.
They should never be wound back in and tightened without a torque wrench. They dont need to be tightened very tight, something like 14nm but you would need to check this figure as I may be wrong.
Get replacements from a dealer for your car, not Euro car parts or some generic car shop or you will be doing the job again sooner rather that later. Hate to say it but the Merc ones seem to outlast cheaper alternatives. I know other members will probably disagree!
Best of luck CLK320x, they are a pig when stuck.
My no 4 by the bulkhead firewall on a OM611 engine needs doing and I keep putting it off, I'd rather have a root canal than do it!
BTW, what engine do you have in your car? I might have some instructions the dealer gave me.
I posted this earlier …….This is for information and may assist with a similar problem and give hope...patience is the key.
Noticed that cold starting was being difficult, similar to not waiting for the Glow plug light to go out. Ignition on and the glow plug would go out after 2 seconds - no matter how cold it was.
Asked the dealer to investigate and they advised that the #5 glow plug had failed but as it would not turn at the test torque of 25 NM they advised that if it broke it would be my problem and the cylinder head would have to come off. 5 out of 6 glow plugs should be Ok for starting. Note Tier 1 warranty does not cover glow plugs.
However cold starting was poor and put the iCarsoft MB II on and in the Benz section it showed a #5 glow plug open circuit. On the OBD setting it showed Glow Plug Controller fault.
I replaced the Glow plug controller withy the newer type £99 and staring was back to normal. Now after starting the glow Plug light would go out and come back on for 1 minute. Icarsoft still showed #5 Glow plug open circuit. I confirmed this with Ohm meter showed 800 ohms. A new plug is 0.4- 0.5 Ohm.
So the Glow plug like a lightbulb had failed and due to excess current draw - burnt out the controller.
A search on line on stuck glow plugs is a scary tale of shearing off, drilling out etc and although there are tools and people that can do it, the access and clearing on the ML 320 V6 is limited.
I bought 2 new glow plugs and put one in a vice and using a 1/4 drive deep hex socket is sheared at 35nm. Dry Torque at install is 15nm.
Now that I have the old one out it is not the thread section length (10mm) that seizes in the head it is the body of the plug length (75mm) carbonised and corroded.
Again checking on line I saw that the best penetrating fluid for this job was a 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and acetone. Mixing it quickly into a syringe and using a straw and with the engine just warm filled the cavity where the glow plug sits. Leave the electrical plug off. Letting the engine cool overnight drawing the fluid into the threads and down the bore.
Ran the car for a week and then repeated over the next 2 weeks.
Took the car for a good run and got the Engine a hot as possible, filled the cavity again and with a straight Hex deep socket smallest extension and 1/4 drive Torque wench set at 20 Nm I tightened the Glow plug. With the same torque I then tried to remove. It turn 90 deg. Using a tee handle I spent 2hrs just turning it back and forward gaining 90 degrees each time. It felt tight again and decided to stop and let the fluid sink in again over night.
This morning went for a drive got it hot and filled the cavity gain with the 50/50 mix. Another 1 hour of 90 degrees at a time and the threaded portion was free. The glow plug came out using a gentle pull with some long nose pliers. Put some ceramic grease on the new plug threads and body and it screwed in by hand and a torque of 12nm. Fault cleared.
Although it took a lot of time soaking etc - better than it breaking off.
topdown, Mar 18, 2018
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Access is really tight in the Vito - I've always paid to have plugs replaced.
wu56Shoozz
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MODS should make this a sticky - good info here!
OP
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PlusGas is £5 at ECP, tempted to give it a soak in that for a few days. Then give it one go, if it comes out I’ll change it if not I’ll just leave it?
I had to use a guy to remove a snapped glow plug once. Great guy. He did a brilliant job. remove seized or broken diesel injector heater or glow plug service
They are based in Wigan.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
They are based in Wigan.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
OP
OP
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- Tesla Model S Performance, Model 3 LR, Model X /// Previous: 911, XFR, E320 CDI, C32 AMG, CLK 320
Hello Chaps,
So I have ordered a 400ML Can of Plusgas (£5.15 from ECP with free delivery cheapest around!!)
If it doesn't come out, I will probably just give up!
Good news STAR is showing 0 faults, apart from the glowplug so that made me happy
Abs
So I have ordered a 400ML Can of Plusgas (£5.15 from ECP with free delivery cheapest around!!)
If it doesn't come out, I will probably just give up!
Good news STAR is showing 0 faults, apart from the glowplug so that made me happy
Abs
