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New MB Owner

trevlacm

Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
34
Location
Sth.Yorks
Car
'00 E320 CDI Avantgarde
Hi there,

I've just purchased my first MB, an E320CDI W210 (2000. 18k miles). The question I have is:

Is it normal for the whole of engine bay to be extremely hot after a reasonable length journey?
I realise the turbo may contribute to the underbonnet temp, also that the car is fiited with the covers under the engine bay so there is less of an air flow. The running temp of the engine is approc 80 deg C and seems fine. Any advice and things to watch out for would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Good choice mate.

Rust is common on W210's but I had one for 4 years with no problems.

Temperature is right so don't worry about engine room temp. Just enjoy your car and the performance of a big MB diesel at it's best. :rock:
 
Thanks Brian,

I'm slightly concerned with regards to rust problems having read the threads in the bodywork forums. I have spotted a few of what I thought were stone chips starting to bubble slightly, on the upper part of passenger front door near the window, the boot lid curve and the front passenger wing. After looking at some of the pics, I'm going to go over the car with a microscope. I was considering getting them done by Chipsaway, but I will take it into my local dealer for an opinion before getting things done.

Mark
 
e class

the engine will retain heat for ages this is ok as mine will do the same, ...I think 4 hours is the record so far but with frequent short journeys to the shops etc this helps the engine reach optimum running temp quicker, rust is a problem take photos of what you find look under the tops of the door rubbers and on the tailgate these and any other you find should be covered under warranty, don't fall for the stone chip getout plan that the dealers always use unless its obviously in a place where you would expect to find stone chips ....had it got fmbsh this will help .....absolutely fantastic car....just keep an eye on the heater plug (orange light) staying on after start up ...and get some millers your tank...and stay away from crappy supermarket fuel...good luck and enjoy

regards mark
 
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Mark,

Thanks for the input. I had a good look around the car last night & found a few areas, one as you suggest under the door seal rubbers and the lower hinges on the back doors. Also on the underside of the bonnet, and a couple of what I thought were stone chips but again like you say not in a stone chip location. The wheel arches look OK but need a bit of a clean before giving them the all clear. The car does have fmbsh, so it looks like a trip to the dealers next week with some photo's & prints of the "rust" threads from this forum. Hopefully they will prove to be helpful.

You suggest using Millers additive, but have you had any experience of using the Forte products? I have a diesel Citroen :( , (120k miles) which I use for work travel, and used Forte in this and at the MOT the emissions were virtually nil. I got some for the MB but havent used it yet. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Mark.
 
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millers

do a search on millers and check this out http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=8350&highlight=millers

Dieselman put me on to it been great smoother,quieter ,and more responsive ...but I only use esso...or shell had one experience with supermarket fuel and ...tractor spring to mind every time I check the oil I still apologise to the engine (memo to self must get a life) . on the rustbe prepared for a long wait, was your car built after August 98 if so you are covered under Mobil life, it may be worth a shuffties at the paperwork on that ...also take a look at the Mercedes Benz web site and read the blurb on the warranty you have received and if you get any trouble throw the customer service blurb back at them, Mercedes are very slippery customers,if they look surprised at your rust tell them to drop the act your a member of this forum... :bannana: by the way i had £7000 grands worth of work done and don't forget to check the car fully when you get it back makes sure everything works...

check for excess dust in the radiator ...could cause slight temp increase

check lights

air con

electric windows

body panels for alignment

try to check colour match

get them to test the thickness of paint between 90//150 microns I think some one will know exactly on here

take photos of the car from every angle and the interior as clear as you can because dust,paint and open windows don't mix ..don't forget your alloys

check your windscreen wiper rubber has not been melted to the windscreen after it been in the oven it will smear

make a note of the mileage with picture and fuel level with date and time if poss.


it should be plain sailing from there

good luck regards Mark
 
mark.t said:
do a search on millers and check this out http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=8350&highlight=millers

Dieselman put me on to it been great smoother,quieter ,and more responsive ...but I only use esso...or shell had one experience with supermarket fuel and ...tractor spring to mind every time I check the oil I still apologise to the engine (memo to self must get a life) . on the rustbe prepared for a long wait, was your car built after August 98 if so you are covered under Mobil life, it may be worth a shuffties at the paperwork on that ...also take a look at the Mercedes Benz web site and read the blurb on the warranty you have received and if you get any trouble throw the customer service blurb back at them, Mercedes are very slippery customers,if they look surprised at your rust tell them to drop the act your a member of this forum... :bannana: by the way i had £7000 grands worth of work done and don't forget to check the car fully when you get it back makes sure everything works...

check for excess dust in the radiator ...could cause slight temp increase

check lights

air con

electric windows

body panels for alignment

try to check colour match

get them to test the thickness of paint between 90//150 microns I think some one will know exactly on here

take photos of the car from every angle and the interior as clear as you can because dust,paint and open windows don't mix ..don't forget your alloys

check your windscreen wiper rubber has not been melted to the windscreen after it been in the oven it will smear

make a note of the mileage with picture and fuel level with date and time if poss.


it should be plain sailing from there

good luck regards Mark

And check your winscreen and sunroof for scratches from an orbital sander :mad: :mad:

230K
 
Mark, 230K,

Thanks again for the input, got more depressed yesterday when I checked the wheel arches and around the tops of the door seals :( . Just compiling my dossier now, and I am also aware of the Irwin Mitchell solicitors web site which has a specific on line form for MB rust problems.

It just goes to show that looks can be deceiving, the car looks mint until you look at the hidden areas and really closely at some of the panels. My car is a Dec 2000 model, and only has 18k on the clock (genuine), so should be OK for the warranty. I'm planning on paying my local dealer a visit on Thursday so I'll let you know how I get on.

Also I'm going to get into Dekra's ribs, because they carried out a full vehicle check for me (£299) because I bought from an independant dealer and they didn't pick these things up :mad: .

Regards

Mark.
 
trevlacm said:
Mark, 230K,



Also I'm going to get into Dekra's ribs, because they carried out a full vehicle check for me (£299) because I bought from an independant dealer and they didn't pick these things up :mad: .

Regards

Mark.

compensation springs to mind :D
 
trevlacm said:
I am also aware of the Irwin Mitchell solicitors web site which has a specific on line form for MB rust problems.

Also I'm going to get into Dekra's ribs, because they carried out a full vehicle check for me (£299) because I bought from an independant dealer and they didn't pick these things up :mad: .

Regards

Mark.

I reckon that if you slip on a wet floor whilst checking for rust then Irwin Mitchell will have the hat trick....

""""""Many accident claims we undertake at Irwin Mitchell Solicitors (IM) involve a client having suffered a fall. Commonly, such falls result from hazards including:

* Broken, cracked or defective pavements
* Wet, slippery floors in shops.

We know that pursuing an accident claim can sometimes be stressfull, which is why at IM we have a wide variety of legal specialists who can deal quickly and sensitively with any type of claim, making it as easy as possible for you.
As easy as one, two, free!""""""

I was so pleased to read a solicitor was taking an interest in helping owners try to resolve their problems ;)

Good luck with getting your problems resolved,
John
 
glojo said:
I reckon that if you slip on a wet floor whilst checking for rust then Irwin Mitchell will have the hat trick....

""""""Many accident claims we undertake at Irwin Mitchell Solicitors (IM) involve a client having suffered a fall. Commonly, such falls result from hazards including:

* Broken, cracked or defective pavements
* Wet, slippery floors in shops.

We know that pursuing an accident claim can sometimes be stressfull, which is why at IM we have a wide variety of legal specialists who can deal quickly and sensitively with any type of claim, making it as easy as possible for you.
As easy as one, two, free!""""""

I was so pleased to read a solicitor was taking an interest in helping owners try to resolve their problems ;)

Good luck with getting your problems resolved,
John


off topic but the 1 inch rule for tripping is 1 1/8 of a inch ...littler vs liverpool 1997 so if you trip on a pavement stone find one thats bigger than 1 inch
 
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Went to dealers today and enquired about getting the rust done on mobilo life warranty. Dealership put me in touch with their bodyshop near Sheffield.

I explained to a nice lady on the phone that my 2000 X reg E320CDI was suffering the same disease as other W210's of this era. She replied "oh dear" so I guessed she knew what I was going to say. Lo and behold she did! So I'm off to the bodyshop Monday afternoon for my car to be assessed. The lady advised me to go over the car very thoroughly and find ALL the problem areas I could, as they can only repair what is pointed out to them.

So I've got the microscope & camera out and I'm going to be all over my car like a rash this weekend.

I'll keep the site posted with my progress. Up to now (touch wood) MB seem to be quite helpful.

I guess the way this thread is going, it may get moved to bodywork soon?

Mark
 
Never good to hear, though as I said to Mark - a big problem with these cars. I'd photograph every part of the car if I were you - mine went in for some stonechips and they managed to cause further damage.
 
trevlacm said:
as they can only repair what is pointed out to them.

Hi Mark,
The re-'mark' :o ;) I have left is so sad! These workshops MUST surely be getting very familiar with ALL the locations that are suffering on the 210. Some are quite obvious, but others will involve you pulling at seals to check underneath. They should be pointing out these locations to you. I would definitely ask the supervisor to point out all the locations they have had to repair on other E-class. ;)

Don't forget that Grav even had problems in the engine bay which I believe required the engine to be taken out.

Pull back the seals for all four doors and the boot, don't just use the magnifying glass ;) If you have the time, do a search on this forum for the different locations of the rust.

Good luck with the repair,
John
 
trevlacm said:
I'll keep the site posted with my progress. Up to now (touch wood) MB seem to be quite helpful.

Mark

Start a new post in the Body section as this thread has wandered a bit mate.
 
Brian,

Thread duly re-located into bodywork section.

Mark
 

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