OM642 Engine Mounts

[MBCLKsport]

Hi All,

Looking to replace the engine and transmission mounts on the car, CLK320 cdi.

Genuine MB Parts coming in at around £300.

From reading the forums, I have the following procedure in mind;

1. Car up on ramps
2. Remove engine under tray
3. Remove air boxes
4. Remove serpentine belt
5. Undo top mount 16mm bolts
6. Move the A/C compressor and Alternator out of the way
7. Raise engine using trolley jack (with wood block) from under the oil pan
8. Undo bottom 13mm bolts
9. Remove and replace the mounts one at time

Does that sound about right?
Can I use a normal 16mm socket/spanner or do I need to get the special 16mm offset spanner?

Thanks

 

[AMGeed]

Those prices seem very steep for OE mounts.

I enquired about new engine mounts for my E55. They are £80 each OE. The transmission mount is around £35.

Give MB Grangemouth a call with your Vin# and you should get a good discounted price They are forumm sponsors too.

 

[Dodipops]

I don’t recall removing ac or alternator on the last one I done. I’m sure I was able to do it all from bottom with the engine hoisted up a bit.

To be fair though I’m not sure if I replaced one or two nor can I recall which side if one.

 

[MBCLKsport]

Those prices seem very steep for OE mounts.

I enquired about new engine mounts for my E55. They are £80 each OE. The transmission mount is around £35.

Give MB Grangemouth a call with your Vin# and you should get a good discounted price They are forumm sponsors too.

Thanks will try them tomorrow. The prices I got where from MB Brooklands and MB Newcastle Ebay. Even buying from 3rd parties the price came in at around £150 for all 3 Lemforder mounts.

I don’t recall removing ac or alternator on the last one I done. I’m sure I was able to do it all from bottom with the engine hoisted up a bit.

To be fair though I’m not sure if I replaced one or two nor can I recall which side if one.

Happy days if the AC/Alternator don't need removing, have not had a proper look under the car yet for access so hopefully you are right!

 

[vijilants]

Not sure but this may help....

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

 

[MBCLKsport]

Hi All, Thanks again for the suggestions/advice.

I'm updating the thread as it may help others in future.

After getting the car on the ramps I was able to judge the amount of space needed to remove the mounts. The passenger mount has plenty of space so can be removed towards the rear of the engine without removing anything else. To remove the drivers side mount either part of the exhaust needs to be removed or the alternator. Removing part of the exhaust is the official Mercedes route and seemed to be the easier way.

1. Car up on ramps
2. Remove engine under trays
3. Remove air boxes
4. Remove exhaust from after the pre-cat to and including the catalyst. You will need to disconnect the o2/lambda sensor cable.
5. Remove top mount bolts(16mm). There is a special 16mm offset spanner for these but couldn't source one in UK. Instead I bought a KING TONY 16mm (335116M) Flexible Crow Socket Wrench for £5. This worked a treat for the drivers side, I attached it to 3/8 universal joint and then to 3/8 extension. For the passenger side, I used a normal 16mm socket attached to 2 universal joints and then to the 3/8 extension.
6. To raise the engine from the oil pan and not to damage the oil pan, I cut a wooden block (6x2) to the width of the oil pan and stuck textured draw liner (rubber/plastic material) to the top of it. Using a trolley jack and the wooden block I raised the engine a few mm and added axle stands to either side of the jack as backup.
7. Remove bottom 13mm bolts from engine mounts.
8. Raise engine up a few cm's just enough to get mounts out. I removed and replaced one at a time. There are notches on the mounts/brackets just make sure they are aligned correctly.
9. Lower engine and replace engine mount bolts.
10. Replace exhaust and air boxes.

I also replaced the transmission mount which is just removing 4 bolts but space is tight if you are using normal ramps.

The passenger mount was completely gone as it was leaking fluid/oil. The drivers side and transmission mount seemed to be ok but as recommended all 3 should be changed at the same time.

The car use to vibrate a lot in reverse and slightly in idle, now all smooth again.

An interesting observation, I have had the turbo actuator issue where the car would kangaroo. On my car this usually starts happening as the weather warms up and to stop it I would need to open up the actuator and just clean it up a little and that does the trick until the following year. It started happening again a lot but since changing the mounts it hasn't happened once yet..odd.

 

[kid-jensen]

Kips,

Useful info, thanks for taking the trouble to post it.

I'll be doing the Mounts on my W164 soon, where did you get the Flexible Crowsfoot 16MM socket/spanner thing for £5? I can't find it for any less than £12....

 

[MBCLKsport]

I bought it from Amazon directly, it was the last one they had in stock at the time. On the CLK just needed it for the drivers side as the drivers side didn't have the height to fit my 16mm socket - if you have a shallow enough 16mm you maybe able to use that with a 1 or 2 universal joints attached.