Red vs Blue Coolant?!

[clk320x]

So my E class is currently filled with red coolant...

Now, I am draining the entire system to change a few bits.

When looking on the MB Newcastle webstore, Red coolant is listed as for vehicles manufacturered ‘from’ 2014, and the blue coolant for vehicles manufactured ‘up to’ 2014...

So my car should have had the blue coolant...

What is the difference between the two? (Apart from the colour obviously)

I’ll order the blue stuff to refill with after the work.

 

[Codger49]

Check out Bevolisten sheets 310.1, 325.0 and 325.6, pretty sure it says you can use the post 2014 in a pre 2014 car if you drain and refill.

Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids: Overview Sheets

PS 310.1 lists the different additives, so answers your whats the difference question.

 

[Martin 1]

DO NOT risk mixing the red / orange coolant with the blue ! This can result in an irremovable gel that ruins the head and block ! If you are certain the previous has been completely flushed, then make the change, otherwise avoid at all costs.

 

[alabbasi]

Either refill with the same type of coolant of flush by cycling through 4-5 gallons of distilled water before filling with coolant.

 

[clk320x]

I’ll just order the red stuff for afterwards all things considered then!

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Wolfie1]

Red stuff is o.a.t
Blue is glysantin
Red is a synthetic blend and can damage older engines

 

[clk320x]

Red stuff is o.a.t
Blue is glysantin
Red is a synthetic blend and can damage older engines

Really?

 

[190]

Doesn't the red coolant last much longer which is why manufacturers use it. I would have thought that makes the decision easy.

 

[alabbasi]

Doesn't the red coolant last much longer which is why manufacturers use it. I would have thought that makes the decision easy.

Kind of. They're all long life coolants, (zerex G05, the blue stuff, red etc). The big problem with with the chemistry in long life coolants is that it will eventually break down and people tend to think that it's okay to leave that stuff in forever.

Even green coolant will work just fine in any engine provided that you flush and refill every couple of years.

I'd suggest that you use what's recommended and readily available in case for any reason you need to top up and there's not a dealer nearby.

 

[cheddar]

I’m no expert on this, but I was told by a rep for oil and coolant that classics should never have the red stuff put in them, as it causes some nasty reactions in metals used in old engines (copper and brass were mentioned), I know this thread want regarding a classic engine but there could be good reasons for them specifying a certain coolant.
I would say best to stick to what it was designed for, the manufacturer spends millions on R&D, they are probably right.

 

[clk320x]

Thanks all, after looking at the official data sheet linked by Martin, I can see the red coolant (325.6) is in fact compatible with all vehicles, where as the blue (325.0) is only compatible to those up to 2014.

 

[PobodY]

Red stuff is o.a.t
Blue is glysantin
Red is a synthetic blend and can damage older engines

I run OAT in the Nissan and that's 28-years old now and shows no problems, but maybe it's too old for the OAT to be a problem? IIRC it was an issue with it attacking the polymer components, like plastic raditators; that's why it's mostly HOAT now.

Personally I'd ditch the proprietary silicate mix and use HOAT if it's backwardly compatible (as above). - It's the silicates that aren't compatible with anything else.

 

[clk320x]

6L of 325.6 (red) coolant ordered from Mercedes for £40.37.

Will collect 6L deionised water from Tesco, at 40p per litre. (Sold in 2.5L bottles so will have 1.5L spare for screenwash)