W211 E320cdi front shock adjustment.

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
I was wrong.
If I pull the wing upward, there is some lift of it.
The damper rod isn't at full length.
So the weight of the car causes further compression of the spring.
So the lower the snap ring the lower the wing will sit.

My Sachs came with the ring midway , I knew nothing about it even being there . I fitted the springs on the new shocks . The front end lifted the arch gap by 2 inches . Driving over potholes knocked out L3 and L4. A bit of googling and using this forum,I discovered the ring. I took one of the old shocks to bits and found which slot the ring was sitting in . Upon refit the car sat perfect and comfort had returned. Not alot of people know the clip ring even exists .
 
No I didn't until the chap at ATS asked me where I wanted it.

I bet that came as a shock , some ATS fella asking you which position you'd like him to mount your ring piece . :)
 
I'm still a bit unsure about how much the front ride height will lower by if I lower the spring perch plate by on groove which is approx. 5mm distance, will car only lower by 5mm.
 
I'm still a bit unsure about how much the front ride height will lower by if I lower the spring perch plate by on groove which is approx. 5mm distance, will car only lower by 5mm.
No it won't . Think of it like this , measure the area of slots , from memory it's say ,what 1 0r 2 inches . So from half up over it'll raise the car that amount , lower it to the bottom ring and car will drop by that amount. Moving it in one slot increments won't get you a result any time soon tbh.
 
Last edited:
Fitted the new front shockers and springs without any dramas and quite happy with the results, but the car has developed a very slight pull to the left which didn't exist before the springs and shockers were changed. In my opinion the only parts I removed which could make car pull to the left or right was the upper small ball joints which are held in place with 3 nuts and bolts, but these were put back in the same position as they were and there didn't seem to be much scope for movement in the bolt holes. I think the caster angle has been altered ever so slightly which is causing the car to the left.
I was thinking of taking it to my local Kwik fit who have the hunter wheel alignment set up. What I really need to know is if I undo the 3 ball joint bolts will it move enough to alter the caster angle. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Might be useful, when took mine to ATS he couldn't find the camber adjuster. As replacing the lower ball joint doesn't need that undoing I didn't know either.
To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
Might be useful, when took mine to ATS he couldn't find the camber adjuster. As replacing the lower ball joint doesn't need that undoing I didn't know either.
To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
I already seen that video, but I haven't touched the bolts or control arms so camber should be ok. If there was a bit of play in the mounting holes of upper ball joint and it's not gone back in its original position could this cause the caster angle to alter which would lead to steering veering one way or the other.
The only thing I did do was put the torx bolts in from the top and nuts at the bottom, it was the other way around before and I was having a bit of a problem getting my ratchet into the bolt heads but I don't think that should've altered anything.
 
Years ago an Indie replaced front suspension arms on my 203. I asked about tracking and he replied that they had replaced like for like, so no need to check.
The steering wheel was out by 30 degrees, as both sides had been done you would expect for each side to be out the the same.

But if the operator of a Hunter knows what he is using it'll show up anyway.
 
Years ago an Indie replaced front suspension arms on my 203. I asked about tracking and he replied that they had replaced like for like, so no need to check.
The steering wheel was out by 30 degrees, as both sides had been done you would expect for each side to be out the the same.

But if the operator of a Hunter knows what he is using it'll show up anyway.
Will see what the Kwik fit guys have to say tomorrow.
 
Will see what the Kwik fit guys have to say tomorrow.

Did the fork on the shocker bottom line up ok for the bolt or did you insert it against resistance?
 
I would say there was some resistance.
That could be pulling it enough to make it wander . It's meant to go in a jig so the angle is true when setting the shocker and spring. If you slacken off the top nut but don't remove it ,you can physically turn the whole shocker using a screwdriver inside the fork hole.
 
That could be pulling it enough to make it wander . It's meant to go in a jig so the angle is true when setting the shocker and spring. If you slacken off the top nut but don't remove it ,you can physically turn the whole shocker using a screwdriver inside the fork hole.
Ok I understand I will check tomorrow, I did make sure the fork was lined up with the paint dot on top plate but the passenger side was slightly out. I was under the impression if bolt went through then it would pull itself true.
.
 
Ok I understand I will check tomorrow, I did make sure the fork was lined up with the paint dot on top plate but the passenger side was slightly out. I was under the impression if bolt went through then it would pull itself true.
.

Well it will but it shouldn't need persuasion. :)
 
Well it will but it shouldn't need persuasion. :)
My rear passenger side wheel is also slightly buckled and was causing vibration at moderate to high speed, we did manage to balance it out but not entirely. Would this in any way affect the steering geometry.
I am planning on getting the wheel repaired very soon but don't want my refurbished wheel getting damaged.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom