I will be changing my bearings with the front suspension components. I've gone the bearing route as opposed to the whole hub as I've already run up a bit of a bill on the front suspension. Just wanted any tips or above for doing this on an eclass w211? Will I need a bearing tap kit? To tap the races into place. Also I believe there's something about the seal that needs to be looked out for otherwise you'll ruin the abs circuitry?
W211 front bearing
- Thread starter Tradtx
- Start date
Check with your local bearing stockist ( BRT Bearings are the UK`s largest supplier of wheel bearing kits, and have 20 branches ) , and be sure to ask for an OEM quality bearing, NOT a budget, or "Value range" brand . Wheel bearing kits containing ABS sensors should have fitting instructions , or refer you to the vehicle manufacturers recommended fitting practice. Incorrect fitting of ABS components will both invalidate any guarantee , and send a false signal to your cars electronics which may cause a false reading or damage. Also check comparison price from your local motor factor , but please ensure you buy a Premium product as there is a lot of sh1t on the market . As a guide , look for NTN , SKF,FAG,TIMKEN,NSK,NACHI, INA, SNR , all of which are top quality products .
You can use the old bearing as a guide to tap the new bearing in . If you have a tapered roller bearing (I.E. It is in two parts ) , stick the outer ring (wrapped) in the freezer until you are ready to fit it , and warm the inner ring gently before fitting it on the shaft. Be sure to grease tapered bearings before assembling , but do not overfill as this will cause "churning" leading to overheating and melting of the grease and getting past the seals.
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Mercedes bearings don't need to be pressed on... I think =/
If they just fall in …………………………………………………………………………………… you have the wrong bearings .
The race is pressed in and the bearing slides into the race?
Haven't watched this one completely, but it has talking in it, just in case you can't tell what's going on in other video.
There is no separate caged " race" on a tapered roller bearing . The outer ring is pressed into the housing, hence at a lower temperature than the housing to present less resistance. The inner ring , upon which the non - separable cage of rollers is centred has to go over the shaft , therefore a heated ring (which will have a slightly expanded inner diameter when hot ) , will be easier to press or tap onto the shaft . The two halves only come into contact when the hub (housing the outer race ) is assembled. With all due respect , I should point out at this stage that over 90% of bearing failures are caused by incorrect fitting procedures/improper maintenance . The use of a DTI is probably almost non-existent in workshops, with most guys tightening the bearing right up , then slackening off slightly. Proceed with caution , and good luck. One last word , do not leave an unwrapped bearing lying about in the workshop , they are like a magnet to grit and dirt!
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