What size spacers do you think I need?

[HarmeshK]

Hi guys,

Just after a bit of advice with what size spacers you think I need to fill the arches of my E class coupe. The tyres I have on the car are Michelin primacy 3 which have a decent tyre lip as a rim protector. The tyre wall is therefore quite slanted to from the top of the tyre of the edge of the rim.

I don’t want my tyres/alloys to protrude the arches so will probably pick a spacer that will bring the tyre lip in line with the arch. Only problem with that is if/when the tyres are changed, the sidewall could be different and if more vertical I’ll end up with my tyre/alloy sitting within the arch.

I never ran spacers before and have read up on the differing methods of how to measure for what size you need. I think I’m going to go for adding wheel studs to the hub, then add washers to the studs until the tyre lip is flush with the arch. I’ll do both wheels on one side of the car, then jack up the otherside to compress the suspension to see if the arches foul.

In theory this sounds a sensible way to get an accurate measurement for what spacers I need. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated.

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[DSM10000]

From what you describe and if I understand your description it sounds potentially dangerous, adding washers to the studs will surely cause the wheel to not locate correctly and squarely against the hub?

 

[AMGeed]

As above, that sounds a dangerous way of moving your wheels further out. Use hubcentric spacers only up to a max of 20mm.

Why not just put a 3ft spirit level against the wheel arch and measure the distance from the tyre. That is the max you can move out.
Remember you'll need longer bolts too. Get the correct radius head ones , not tapered or your wheel will quickly come loose.

 

[Wolfie1]

When i put spacers on my c class i used 15mm on the rear and 10mm on the front

 

[HarmeshK]

As above, that sounds a dangerous way of moving your wheels further out. Use hubcentric spacers only up to a max of 20mm.

Why not just put a 3ft spirit level against the wheel arch and measure the distance from the tyre. That is the max you can move out.
Remember you'll need longer bolts too. Get the correct radius head ones , not tapered or your wheel will quickly come loose.

Thanks for the reply AMGeed

I don’t think I’ve explained myself properly. Once the correct size spacer is determined, hub centric wheel spacers will be ordered along with longer wheel bolts, radius seating, M14 * 1.5. Thread length 45mm + size of spacer.

To determine the correct size of spacer, the wheel hubs on one side of the car will have studs installed and then the same number of washers used on each stud (for each wheel) to accurately move the wheel out to the point I’m happy with where they sit. The car then be lowered off the axle stands.

Once lowered the clearance with the arch can be checked. The opposite side of the car can then be jacked up to compress the suspension on the side the washers are installed, a check of clearance is then done again.

The car will not be driven while on washers and studs, this is simply done for test fitting.

This method will allow me to test all the different size spacers available to me without having to buy them. Once the right size is found for front and back wheels, the hub centric spacers will be ordered with longer bolts.

Using a level against the tyre is fine, just feels I can get the measurement more accurate using the washers and I’ll be more comfortable with the chances of not having any rubbing once installed.

 

[AMGeed]

The car will not be driven while on washers and studs, this is simply done for test fitting.

This method will allow me to test all the different size spacers available to me without having to buy them. Once the right size is found for front and back wheels, the hub centric spacers will be ordered with longer bolts.

Using a level against the tyre is fine, just feels I can get the measurement more accurate using the washers and I’ll be more comfortable with the chances of not having any rubbing once installed.

Ah, that is clearer what you intend to do
Sounds OK and more accurate than a level.

 

[HarmeshK]

From what you describe and if I understand your description it sounds potentially dangerous, adding washers to the studs will surely cause the wheel to not locate correctly and squarely against the hub?

Hi DSM,

Sorry I didn’t see your post yesterday. Thanks for replying.

I have thought about the wheel not sitting on the hub lip when using the washers. I guess this will only be a consideration if the amount of washers used exceeds the depth of the hub lip so the wheel has nothing to locate on to.

If the washers did exceed the hub lip I guess you would be in the same position as if you were running non hubcentric spacers.

Whichever way, for the purposes of what I’m trying to achieve which is just to measure accurately what size spacers to order, I don’t think it will be an issue/concern.

The car is not intended to be driven at all while the studs and washers are attached. Now that would be dangerous!

 

[HarmeshK]

It’s basically something like this I’m looking to do, just with more studs..