Recent content by GILBY

Thanks for the heads up... definitely using genuine parts is a no brainer!

Just a quick update... turns out one of the middle tube end caps has popped off on drivers side. Replace all of them and the ticking noise has now gone. Tapping did come back eventually after it had been sitting for over a month after a few drives which is kinda weird. Thanks for everybody's input!

ok... got a specialist coming to replace the cam oilers next week, just thought i'd give the car a run today, it's been sitting for over a month. Started it up and there is no tapping, gave it a good run then parked it up for a bit then took it out again and still no tapping. I would have...

Yeah looks straight forward. I'll let you know of the outcome. :)

I think you're right... now it's just finding a shop that is willing to do it! A lot of these specialists say they don't work on vehicles that old, the cynic in me says they just can't be bothered and have so much work they can just cherry pick what jobs they want to take on for maximum profit...

Not many maybe 300-400 since last august.

Thanks Will... that totally makes sense, I'll try a treatment/flush first and new oil change, if it's still there then that will be the next course of action. Will be back with the outcome!

Wouldn't the tapping be present all the time if it was the cam oilers though? ... after a long run the noise disappears, then returns after idling for a short while.

Yeah I'm hoping thats the worst case scenario 👍 ... based in Oxford.

Hi, 1998 CL500 M119 engine... Developed a loud tapping/ticking driver's side valve cover area, not sure if it's plastic oiler tubes that feed the cams? Quietens down after a long run, but if left idling for say 5/10 mins loud ticking comes back. Oil level is ok. Would using an engine flush...

Just had new front shocks replaced and the car is sitting really high, what causes this? Could the new shocks be too long?

What would be the symptoms of a bad rear diff subframe mount besides sag?

Would air in the system cause the rear end not to rise when weight was added to the boot or is that something wrong with the valve?

Thanks for the detailed analysis. If the valve is the only component that regulates ride height and pressure to the hydraulic rams where is that escaping to when revs are reduced could the rams be bad or springs be weak?

I was talking bout the arm that's fixed and sits parallel above the valve on the sway bar is it supposed to not move at all. I've noticed there's a bit of play when lying underneath and grabbing the rear end and rocking it up and down I don't remember that part moving a while back when I...