C Class W204 - Rear passenger door stuck shut / panel removal

[cox]

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and I was wondering if anyone could offer a bit of advice?

I've got a 2008 C Class W204 320 Sport Estate and it looks like the rear passenger door lock actuator has died. The problem is the door is now locked shut from both sides and I have no way to open the door.

If I pull on the outside handle then nothing happens. If I pull on the inside handle, the door knob pops up, but again the door will not open.

I tried disconnecting the battery (once I finally found it, it is next to the spare in the boot on the V6) and left it disconnected for 15 minutes, connected it back up and tried to open it again using the central locking, but it is still locked.

I managed to carefully unhook the door panel at the top and removed the hex screws, which gave the door card about 5 mm of movement in all directions, but logistically it looks like it isn't possible to remove the door card with the door shut as it is bevelled and blocked in by other interior trim.

Does anyone know of any way to get the door open/panel off? As a last resort I can take a knife to the door card, but it is leather and in mint condition. It is going to be painful to destroy it. Also it is two tone, I'm not sure how common these would be? There is one on eBay but it is marked, so if anyone knows anyone that breaks Mercs that has one available or could post a wanted ad in the classified on my behalf (I don't have enough pposts to do this myself, not sure if it is allowed, but I thought I would ask just in case), that would be very much appreciated. I've attached a photo of the door card I have below:



Got a little one on the way so I really want to get this fixed ASAP.

Thanks for your help!

Dave.

 

[Dec]

rear door wont open on my 2009 200 c class


The above link says it can be removed with the door shut. Try the battery disconnect again, maybe a few times.


See also… Mercedes-Benz W204 Rear Door Panel Removal - (2008-2014) C250, C300, C350 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article


And… w204 rear door panel removal - Google Search


Dec

 

[cox]

Thanks Dec, I had a look at both of those, but I really am struggling to see how it can be removed with the door shut as it is held in the whole way round with trim from the door frame except from the top. I might just have to be more brutal with it. I'll try again. When I Googled the problem I read someone had the same problem repaired by the dealer and the dealer cut the door card to get at the actuator. But that is fine for the dealer, because they get some extra £££ from the customer for the new door card. Not so great for the customer though... Its so annoying you can't override the locking mechanism from the inside of the car.

I did notice when I disconnected the battery and reconnected it again the side mirrors stopped folding in when I lock the door with the remote. I had a check in the settings > convenience settings and auto folding of mirrors was switched on. I wonder if the battery is starting to run low? I might try and charge it fully before I commit to getting the door panel off.

The thing is the car starts fine, but I think I read somewhere an older battery can cause odd issues with the electrics. Might get lucky if the actuator has a bit more juice to get it open, even if it is going bad...

Dave.

 

[MancMike]

Btw, the doors are dead bolted.

If you lock the car with the fob, and try to unlock any door from the inside, it won't work.

 

[Dec]

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Hold out as long as you can, you might get lucky with battery disconnects/routine unlocking in the future.

Try giving the door a good push/thump while pulling the door handle, might shake something up.


Dec

 

[grober]

This gives an inside picture but may not be much help

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[grober]

Don't know how much "give" there is on these doors. You could try "leaning in" on it at the same time as trying to remote unlock it to see if that releases any tension/friction on the lock mechanism, but if its broken its broken-- its a long shot I know

 

[cheddar]

I’ve had a couple of these come to my workshop with this happened. Best advice I can give is turn off the function that locks the doors when setting off, you’ll likely find that within a day or two you’ll unlock it and it just works, then remember not to lock it again until you’ve replaced the door latch.
It rarely come to having to bust the door latch apart on these.
Also try banging around the latch area on the outside of the door while locking and unlocking, often works.

 

[c220cdi2010]

hello,
sorry if late to party.

i had this on my 2009 59 plate
I managed to get to unlock by pressing unlock on keyfob at same time as opening the door / or i did did front & rear at same time - sorry forget which combination and this fix did resolve it for ages.

then today i find the same door now doesn't lock at all, so yay!
off to source; door card removal; actuator replacement - assume this needs coding to my key; or find someone to torch car and get insurance back (joke)

 

[cox]

At least it is stuck open, that means you can get the door card off more easily which is half the battle to be fair. I gave it a try, but without removing parts of the interior (seats etc), I couldn't see any way to get it off with the door locked shut.

Tried everything, disconnecting the battery and some of the other suggestions above, but the actuator was completely shot. In the end I took it to my local Merc specialist called MB automotive in Loughborough and they managed to get the door panel off without damaging it and fitted a new actuator. Total cost to fix including parts was around £400 from memory. Looks like a pig of a job to sort yourself (got rivets to drill out, etc once the door card is off), so I was happy to pay someone else to do it for me. Moral of the story is to sort out any dodgy door locks as soon as they start playing up and not just leave them until they die completely!

 

[c220cdi2010]

good to hear all sorted, my car has been an absolute money pit since bought it unfortunately and another £400 notes is not something can afford either

do you happen on receipt know part number of replacement?
seen a few youtube and mbworld guides and looks possible for a diy jobbie

 

[cox]

Yeah, mine has cost a fair bit too so far if I am honest.

Had the ABS/ESP warning light on last month, got it hooked up to STAR which said it was a wheel speed sensor. Had that changed, error codes were all clear and errors all gone but the ABS/ESP warning light was still on even though there were no errors or fault codes coming up on STAR whatsoever! Garage had never seen that happen before, but turned out to be the magnetic ring that goes into the drive shaft that works alongside the sensor had a few magnets out which was throwing the error even before the car even started moving, which doesn't even make any logical sense. Managed to get the light off a week before the MOT was due to expire thankfully. Really glad they managed to get it fixed though as I wouldn't have had a clue where to start if I were trying to diagnose the problem myself!

Will see if I can dig out the receipt later, but pretty sure it doesn't list the part no. though I am afraid...

I've definitely had more reliable cars, although when the car is working without any issues it is an absolute pleasure to drive and the V6 engine and 7 speed gearbox really work well together, can't fault it there, but I'd say the reliability of the c class is pretty average from my own experience so far.

 

[c220cdi2010]

every year had her something major has broken; put right off MB for any other car ever; not sure how can be classed a premium brand based on experience, and agree that when working is a plesure to drive

if you can find be appreciated, as really would like to do myself; but as door is now proper jammed shut not sure what can apart from garage
so feels like actuator; but not sure if all 4doors use same or not - anyone a parts catalogue please

 

[andyxstewart]

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and I was wondering if anyone could offer a bit of advice?

I've got a 2008 C Class W204 320 Sport Estate and it looks like the rear passenger door lock actuator has died. The problem is the door is now locked shut from both sides and I have no way to open the door.

If I pull on the outside handle then nothing happens. If I pull on the inside handle, the door knob pops up, but again the door will not open.

I tried disconnecting the battery (once I finally found it, it is next to the spare in the boot on the V6) and left it disconnected for 15 minutes, connected it back up and tried to open it again using the central locking, but it is still locked.

I managed to carefully unhook the door panel at the top and removed the hex screws, which gave the door card about 5 mm of movement in all directions, but logistically it looks like it isn't possible to remove the door card with the door shut as it is bevelled and blocked in by other interior trim.

Does anyone know of any way to get the door open/panel off? As a last resort I can take a knife to the door card, but it is leather and in mint condition. It is going to be painful to destroy it. Also it is two tone, I'm not sure how common these would be? There is one on eBay but it is marked, so if anyone knows anyone that breaks Mercs that has one available or could post a wanted ad in the classified on my behalf (I don't have enough pposts to do this myself, not sure if it is allowed, but I thought I would ask just in case), that would be very much appreciated. I've attached a photo of the door card I have below:

View attachment 74569

Got a little one on the way so I really want to get this fixed ASAP.

Thanks for your help!

Dave.

I've joined this forum just to help anyone, like me, who has this problem.

My car:
2009 W204 Estate (Station Wagon in Nth America, I think).

Rear Left door locked, can't be opened from inside or out. Managed to toggle the child lock lever up and down but that didn't help.

So here's how I got the door card off:
1. Remove trim around the door. Just pull, it comes away quite easily. I had a plastic scuff guard at the bottom of mine. Pull up front and slide forward, it has a hook at the rear.
2. Lever up top of door card and pop it off door lip. No need for tools, fingers will do fine (keep window fully down)
3. I put a "Windbag" into the top of the door next to B Pillar and pumped up until retaining clips popped. Got the three on that side loosened this way. Did the same at the C Pillar but could only get two loosened. Not sure the ones at the C Pillar are absolutely necessary.
So we all know what I'm talking about here, the Windbag is like a football bladder with a pump, like the doctor used to use, in the olden days, to take your blood pressure. Joiners in the UK use them to lift doors, windows etc when fitting.
4. Lever the door card towards the rear of the car at the B Pillar so it can pass the pillar, then start pulling the door card away from the door. I used a bit of timber so as not to damage the door card. Once you have that side out it's plain sailing, just work your way around the door. Remember to disconnect cables and wires.

I still don't have the door opened yet, I need to get a new lock first, There's lots of videos showing how to change the lock.

Oh, and I removed the rear seat base and side bolster to make life easier, which it did.

Hope this helps someone.

 

[andyxstewart]

I've joined this forum just to help anyone, like me, who has this problem.

My car:
2009 W204 Estate (Station Wagon in Nth America, I think).

Rear Left door locked, can't be opened from inside or out. Managed to toggle the child lock lever up and down but that didn't help.

So here's how I got the door card off:
1. Remove trim around the door. Just pull, it comes away quite easily. I had a plastic scuff guard at the bottom of mine. Pull up front and slide forward, it has a hook at the rear.
2. Lever up top of door card and pop it off door lip. No need for tools, fingers will do fine (keep window fully down)
3. I put a "Windbag" into the top of the door next to B Pillar and pumped up until retaining clips popped. Got the three on that side loosened this way. Did the same at the C Pillar but could only get two loosened. Not sure the ones at the C Pillar are absolutely necessary.
So we all know what I'm talking about here, the Windbag is like a football bladder with a pump, like the doctor used to use, in the olden days, to take your blood pressure. Joiners in the UK use them to lift doors, windows etc when fitting.
4. Lever the door card towards the rear of the car at the B Pillar so it can pass the pillar, then start pulling the door card away from the door. I used a bit of timber so as not to damage the door card. Once you have that side out it's plain sailing, just work your way around the door. Remember to disconnect cables and wires.

I still don't have the door opened yet, I need to get a new lock first, There's lots of videos showing how to change the lock.

Oh, and I removed the rear seat base and side bolster to make life easier, which it did.

Hope this helps someone.

Further to my last post, I have a question for you guys in relation to this issue.

How on earth do you release the lock?

Removing the internal skin doesn't actually get you any further 'cause you still can't get the actuator out with the door closed.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[andyxstewart]

Further to my last post, I have a question for you guys in relation to this issue.

How on earth do you release the lock?

Removing the internal skin doesn't actually get you any further 'cause you still can't get the actuator out with the door closed.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Just thought I'd give you guys an update.

Could not get the door open, had to put car into an independent Mercedes dealer who had to bust the door open, replace the actuator and charge me £474 for the pleasure. That isn't the end of it though, door control module gone too, part was another £168 to replace but got one on ebay for £12. This really is just a money pit of a car, it has to go.

Just in case anyone has the same problem, here's how they got the door opened.
Big screwdriver and hammer into the lock mechanism, to the side of the metal fork that wraps around the striker plate, smash hell out of the plastic guts of the actuator until it releases. Didn't see them doing it, that's just what they told me. I can see the damage inside the lock actuator when I opened it up.

And, they didn't reattach the inner metal panel with pop rivets, just self tappers.

Attached are some photographs of the tools I used to get the door card off and the destroyed actuator, which I've opened up. Mercedes really don't want anyone to be able to fix these things.

Hope this helps someone.