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CLS 350 CDI - New Thermostat? Part number?

Mystery solved. The 2215 is the one I need. I gave the parts guy the part number first, then asked him to check it against the VIN, and it looks as though he must have seen the part number I'd already given him, not the one that was there. My fault, really.

Running the VIN again, it's the 2215 number that comes up.

The electrical gubbins is a tiny immersion heater that runs down the centre of the actual thermostat, incidentally.
 
E55BOF said:
Mystery solved. The 2215 is the one I need. I gave the parts guy the part number first, then asked him to check it against the VIN, and it looks as though he must have seen the part number I'd already given him, not the one that was there. My fault, really.

Running the VIN again, it's the 2215 number that comes up.
Click to expand...

Wasn't that what I told you? ;)
 
Indeed it was, but since the dealer's parts man was also working from the Webparts database, once he confirmed (erroneously, as we now know) that the VIN and the part number I had gven him was correct, I went with that and bought what he and I believed to be the correct part.

I'll call you Cassandra if you like... :D
 
pmcgsmurf said:
Is that just for the internal thermostat?

I get A 642 200 22 15 for the complete assembly.
Click to expand...
I get the same. OP's engine number is 41453789 and this p/n is up to engine number 41464843
 
pmcgsmurf said:
Makes sense and is what the system says.

No idea where @OneForTheRoad got the 23 part number from?
Maybe one of the Internet sites like 7zap but these can't be relied on.
Click to expand...
The 23 part number is for engine numbers later than what I posted i.e. from 41464843
 
And loooking at that, it is for the right engine sub-type too - 642.853.
 
E55BOF said:
I took the covers off yesterday to be sure of what the job entails, and it's simple enough,
Click to expand...
I spoke too soon. Oh no it bloody isn't... undid everything, including the three bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the block; the third, almost inaccessible, bolt is longer than the other two, and cannot be removed to release the thermostat housing without removing part of the turbo trunking, and by the looks of it, possibly the fuel filter too.

Ferk it! TIme to let Terry Gates take the strain.

I'm going away for the weekend, so it will have to wait until next week. The temperature is sitting at 80 degrees on the motorway, which is not too bad, but just in case it gives up the ghost completely, I'll take some thick cardboard and cable ties, so I can mask off part of the grille if necessary. If I have to use it, I just hope it doesn't rain...

(THINKS): Maybe 3" Black Nasty (military term for duct tape) would do the job if needed, and it would be easier than cardboard, and it's waterproof as well. Hmmm...
 
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Don’t worry Dennis my thermostat did the same as yours and it gave me no bother, sat at 60 all the time just a bit worse on mpg till I changed it
 
I had the same problem on the petrol 350, though, a few years back, and it dropped below 60 and the EML came on. If it goes too low it may adversely affect the DPF, or even prevent a regen. I may be worrying unnecessarily, but better to be safe than sorry.
 
E55BOF said:
I spoke too soon. Oh no it bloody isn't... undid everything, including the three bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the block; the third, almost inaccessible, bolt is longer than the other two, and cannot be removed to release the thermostat housing without removing part of the turbo trunking, and by the looks of it, possibly the fuel filter too.

Ferk it! TIme to let Terry Gates take the strain.

I'm going away for the weekend, so it will have to wait until next week. The temperature is sitting at 80 degrees on the motorway, which is not too bad, but just in case it gives up the ghost completely, I'll take some thick cardboard and cable ties, so I can mask off part of the grille if necessary. If I have to use it, I just hope it doesn't rain...

(THINKS): Maybe 3" Black Nasty (military term for duct tape) would do the job if needed, and it would be easier than cardboard, and it's waterproof as well. Hmmm...
Click to expand...
I came across this on my W212 a few weeks ago - more specifically, my mate who was doing the job did! He came up with an ingenious solution to the issue - he simply 'converted' the
E55BOF said:
I spoke too soon. Oh no it bloody isn't... undid everything, including the three bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the block; the third, almost inaccessible, bolt is longer than the other two, and cannot be removed to release the thermostat housing without removing part of the turbo trunking, and by the looks of it, possibly the fuel filter too.

Ferk it! TIme to let Terry Gates take the strain.

I'm going away for the weekend, so it will have to wait until next week. The temperature is sitting at 80 degrees on the motorway, which is not too bad, but just in case it gives up the ghost completely, I'll take some thick cardboard and cable ties, so I can mask off part of the grille if necessary. If I have to use it, I just hope it doesn't rain...

(THINKS): Maybe 3" Black Nasty (military term for duct tape) would do the job if needed, and it would be easier than cardboard, and it's waterproof as well. Hmmm...
Click to expand...
I came across this on my W212 a few weeks ago - more specifically, my mate who was doing the job did! He came up with an ingenious solution to the issue - he simply removed some metal from the housing around the hole for the larger of the 3 bolts, both from the old one in situ and then the new one prior to fitting, turning a hole into a 'slot' - attached pic shows where he removed it from. That allowed the housing to be slid away from the 'captive' bolt, and the new housing to be slid back over it prior to tightening up. It doesn't affect sealing because, as you're no doubt aware, the seal sits in a machined groove, well clear of the bolt hole.

Pete
 

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I thought about doing that, but there's no access to get in behind the thermostat housing to remove the metal without removing the turbo trunking in the first place, and in the second, even with the bolt undone and the existing housing as far up as it will go, the thermostat itself still protrudes too far for the housing to be pulled off the bolt and removed. I'm buggered....
 
E55BOF said:
I thought about doing that, but there's no access to get in behind the thermostat housing to remove the metal without removing the turbo trunking in the first place, and in the second, even with the bolt undone and the existing housing as far up as it will go, the thermostat itself still protrudes too far for the housing to be pulled off the bolt and removed. I'm buggered....
Click to expand...
Hmmmm, I'll ask my mate how he managed it, he did say he'd done bugger all dismantling....he's got a cracking garage setup, so just might've had the right tool for the job.

Pete
 
Interesting... I think the 'stat has failed completely. It took ages to warm up starting off this morning - five miles trundling into and through town, and still only 60 degrees. Once on the motorway and up to speed. it sat at about 75 on the level, easing up to 80 on a long gentle incline, and dropping to nearly 60 on the long downhill coming down off the Chilterns on the M40 northbound. The car only did just over 30 mpg on the 160 mile trip, cruise control set at 85, in light traffic. I'd expect better fuel economy than that; does anybody know how much it might suffer with the car running 10 degrees cooler than MB intended?
 
E55BOF said:
Interesting... I think the 'stat has failed completely. It took ages to warm up starting off this morning - five miles trundling into and through town, and still only 60 degrees. Once on the motorway and up to speed. it sat at about 75 on the level, easing up to 80 on a long gentle incline, and dropping to nearly 60 on the long downhill coming down off the Chilterns on the M40 northbound. The car only did just over 30 mpg on the 160 mile trip, cruise control set at 85, in light traffic. I'd expect better fuel economy than that; does anybody know how much it might suffer with the car running 10 degrees cooler than MB intended?
Click to expand...
Mine improved by 3 to 4 mpg after the new thermostat was fitted, calculated from a few brim-to-brim measurements.

Pete
 
I’d expect around 40mpg on a run like that with that engine Dennis.

My 250 was doing around 38-40mpg with the failed stat, and increased to around 46mpg average on the same journey after. Mine wasn’t running as low as yours though
 
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