CLS55 m113k crank position sensor, where?

[philnewmerc]

My car cut out while driving. Came to a rest with no engine completely dead as a dodo. 10 minutes later it would restart. Code reader says crank position sensor. According to the internet it's not a difficult job, but I've just had a look under the bonnet and I can't even see it where it is allegedly supposed to be! Would anybody be able to point it out on a 55 engine? The photo shows the view that I should apparently be seeing a sensor... apparently on left hand side at back of engine ??

 

[noogieman]

This is dangerous in traffic when it happens, when engine cools down you can start the car.
The CPS sensor is the culprit, this part is behind the engine, deep down, you need an extension tool to access the CPS

 

[philnewmerc]

Thanks for that. I just couldn't see it but maybe I need to remove the air filters to get better view

 

[noogieman]

yeah, much easier to spot if you remove filterbox.

 

[Alps]

im sure I done a thread about changing this years back , do a search under me

 

[philnewmerc]

OK thanks all. For anyone else, here some extra info:
1/4 inch imperial with 1/4 inch drive fitted to a screwdriver socket driver is perfect fit on the E8 bolt head and bolt was not very tight. I loosened the near side air filter out of the way but did not disconnect the hose as its one of those that need special pliers to do up. Also very helpful to have the bonnet in the vertical position to get a view down the back of the engine. I at first could not see the sensor, that was because mine had a grey heat sleeve over the plug (image above), simply pull that up the cable to reveal the black plug. Squeeze and pull to unplug. The bolt is beneath the sensor so you can only see a smidge of it. It came out easy. My top tip if doing this again would be to buy one of those powerful small magnets and stick it on the socket to capture the bolt. The new Bosch sensor was £31 quid part number 0261210170. But, it was a very tight fit so instead of forcing it I used some flour paper (3000 grit) to take off a little of the moulding marks, then it went in ok. Next issue was to twist it clockwise and anti a little to get the bolt back in the thread to avoid cross threading (hence using a magnet would be wise here. It was an extremely tight fit for my arm but essentially a straightforward job - but if you drop the bolt I doubt you'd ever see it again (maybe order a spare at the same time?).

Cheers for the advice earlier

 

[Petrol Pete]

I replaced the one on my M113 .. what a swine of a job ! mainly because the M113 V8 was never supposed to be shoehorned into a C class engine bay.




There it is