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E320CDI 2007 Intermittent loss of Turbo Power

Stocho

Active Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
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419
Hi All,

I addition to intermittent gear selector problem whereby the gear is not going from Neutral to Reverse unless brake pedal is released (W211 E320CDI 2007 facelift intermittently gets stuck in Drive gear), which now happens very rarely, my car developed another intermittent problem.

About 25% of the time when I start my car from cold the car is underpowered due to a loss of turbo (or so I think). If such loss of power occurs, using manual gear selection enables me to get the car up to any reasonable speed (70mph no problem) - obviously, not as quickly as with turbo, though. When this problem occurs just switching the ignition off and on, even very briefly such as at red traffic lights, more often than not cures the problem. Sometimes the problem occurs even when the car is started warm. Dashboard check engine light appears and disappears (when driven several times without the problem it disappears, then when problems occur several times in succession it reappears).

There is never any juddering. I noticed even when I have this turbo problem it generally appears after about 10 seconds of driving and I have been trying to capture that moment of turbo loss by trying to accelerate heavily for the first ten seconds from start - but was never able to capture the moment.

I had started using Shell Premium Diesel with the view of clearing the systems of various deposits just before this problem started. Switching to Costco Premium Diesel seemed to coincide with reduction in frequency of this problem. Perhaps this is a coincidence, perhaps not.

In the past I had an actuator fault on another E320CDI facelift but there was a lot of juddering shortly after starting a car and turbo-power would be lost only after severe juddering.- and there is no any juddering at all with the present car.

Any thoughts on what could be the problem are welcome! Thanks a lot in advance or any repplies!
 
Have you had the fault codes read?

Yes, OBDII codes:
P0244 Turbocharger /Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range / Performance
P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0130 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1

I have iCarSoft Reader that for some problems reads much more than just OBDII codes, but for this problem I found only OBDII codes/
 
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Sounds similar to a problem my w219 had recently,turned out to be a failed turbo which knocked the 02 sensor out as well(turbo canes seized afterinhressing a failed /perished seal)
 
Sounds similar to a problem my w219 had recently,turned out to be a failed turbo which knocked the 02 sensor out as well(turbo vanished seized after ingressing a failed /perished seal)
 
You can undo the duct pipework to the turbo and check the shaft for play just to make sure its ok
 
If you boot it from cold does it kangaroo?


Hi, there is no jerkiness of any kind. On my another W211 E320CDI with failed actuator I had extreme jerkiness shortly after starting when trying to accelerate and after that turbo power would be lost.

In this one I was actually trying hard to bring on this jerkiness - but I do not get it.
 
The exhaust back pressure sensor is a very common fault on the om642 v6 engine. You really need to look at live data tbh.
 
The exhaust back pressure sensor is a very common fault on the om642 v6 engine. You really need to look at live data tbh.

Thanks a lot for all the replies!

So it could be somethings either than the actuator... Couple of years ago I had SRS fault light which is commonly caused by passenger seat occupation sensor. Bought and installed a botched solution for that, did not fix the problem, bought a diagnosis tool that helped to established that it is a faulty front deceleration sensor...

So I have a diagnostic tool which is more than just OBDII reader (I attach some screenshots of it). It has lots of different options of what data to read. What exactly do I need to be able to see live values of in order to diagnose the fault?

Thanks a lot for advice!
 

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Also I noticed that there are plenty of inexpensive actuators on Ebay for W211, like, for example, on the link below. Some are new, some are refurbished. If it is actuator that is at fault, are these a good option or do I need to send my own for a refurbishment?

 
Actuator must be exact match for your turbo.
Often its just wiring problem inside actuator, then its DIYabale...
 
That live data doesn't show much tbh. Can you actuate the actuator on that kit?
 
Ebp sensor is shown as 994 which is good.
 
Can you actuate the actuator on that kit?

No that is not possible as far as I am aware - it can just read some codes and also some live data. It is better than OBDII standard reader as was able to pinpoint SRS fault in the past to the front deceleration sensor, which brake pads triggered error message etc.
 
Hi

I have today removed half the actuator.

Pictures are provided below. The actuator driver arm (circled on one of the pictures) is at 3 o'clock whether the power is on or off. The play with the actuator connected is perhaps 2-3mm (millimetres). When the power is on, trying to move it within those 2-3mm elicits some sort of resistance response from the actuator.

When disconnected from the actuator the rod moves about 2-3cm. The movement is such that I would say if it was connected to that arm of the actuator (that does not allow it to move) the range would be about between 1 o'clock and 3 o'clock.

On the circuit board initially all wires were solid but I dislodged one wire (circled) by keeping trying to check. So even if I solder that back I think the root cause is something else.

Any advice is appreciated.


A1.JPGA2.JPGA3.JPG
 
I tried soldering back the wire - it just does not stick. I used Dremel (like a dentist drill with lots of attachments) to send down the contacts to copper but solder just does not stick to contacts. Also as I believe it is me who broke that wire there is another fault either with the actuator or somewhere else - so soldering back the wire is not likely to fix the problem.

So I suppose I have three options:
1. Buy a new one on ebay (probably not OEM)
2. Buy reconditioned actuator
3. Send mine for reconditioning (though not sure this is an option as I suppose repairers will not like to take in actuator that has been tempered with)

Any advice on which option is best?
 
Also, can I just disconnect the actuator and drive around without actuator while waiting for a repair / new actuator? The control rod will be loose, will it default to the "right" (safe / closed) position?
 

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