E320CDI 2007 Intermittent loss of Turbo Power

[mersum1es]

You need very hot soldering iron.

I wouldn't drive, it means lotsa smoke (even in limp mode) and may clogg your DPF

 

[Stocho]

I managed to solder back the bits of wire I broke, would not trust that to hold for any length of time but in any case put it back together and started testing....

What I noticed with regard to actuator arm is:
Power Off - the arm is 4 o'clock when facing the car ( 8 o'clock if viewed from drivers seat)
Power but not ignition on - the arm moves up to 2 o'clock (10 from driver;s viewpoint)
Ignition on - the arm moves down, if I rev the engine it moves up.

About ten seconds after starting it moves up. If I am revving from start can get to 5000 and the arm then moves up. About ten seconds later the power is loss and it goes to 3000, the arm still up. So the loss of power appears to be mom-obviously related to actuator arm position. In particular if I am revving at 5000 from start, the actuator arm is up, and stays up as I loose power about 10 seconds later.

Does it mean the fault is not with the actuator but with something else? What could it be?

 

[Stocho]

You need very hot soldering iron.

I wouldn't drive, it means lotsa smoke (even in limp mode) and may clogg your DPF

Actually the only way I managed to solder it (and it is a bad and unreliable job) is by setting iron to 375C - the point at which it was about able to melt solder. That made solder less keen to turn into a ball of liquid and more happy to stay in irregular shape. It is a very bad soldering job that I did and now I am suspecting the original fault might not be even with the actuator (due to my post above).

 

[Stocho]

Hi All now I have an additional OBDII code and now it is always in limp mode - I can not get it out of limp mode by driving around and switching ignition off and on however many times I try.

It also has a new code P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor.

I am inclined this error is related to my work, like may be I displaced some cable or electrical plug or turbo actuator soldering job somehow resulted in this rather than it being coincidental independent fault that happened to appear at this very moment in time.

Any advice on what plug etc I should check (probably something I could have disturbed when removing the turbo actuator)?

 

[mersum1es]

M55 motor may have been behind trouble all the time.

Intake Shut Off Motor Replacement!

www.benzworld.org

Quick fix is put 4,7kOhm resistor in motor plug and test.

 

[Stocho]

M55 motor may have been behind trouble all the time.

Intake Shut Off Motor Replacement!

www.benzworld.org

Quick fix is put 4,7kOhm resistor in motor plug and test.

Thanks a lot, that has "fixed" it! Well at least on the drive it looks fixed ( still need to drive the car around to test).

Very strange how I seem to have had two separate, yet related, faults as initially the error code was:
P0244 Turbocharger /Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range / Performance
and the fault was intermittent.

After me messing with the turbo actuator the fault became permanent with error code:
P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor

After I put a 4.7KOhm resistor in P2015 also cleared.

Revving engine heavily still gives the errors below which I understand too be unrelated to this problem:
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0130 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1

The question now is whether the resistor is a permanent fix - starting a separate topic for that:

W211 4.7kOhm resistor "fix" for M55 motor / intake manifold runner position sensor P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor | Engine

Hi, Putting 4.7kOhm resistor as a "fix" for M55 mototor / turbo issues is often recommended. For my car it has "solved" error code P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor that was sending the car into a limp mode. (E320CDI 2007 Intermittent loss of Turbo Power | Engine) What does this...

forums.mbclub.co.uk

 

[mersum1es]

Sometimes other boost pressure related fault can be 'cloaked' by another (especially if codes nor read by SDS). And its very usual one fault triggers multiple codes since all are boost related - car sees implausibility between asked and reached pressure, algorithm triggers fault. Simply splitted boost pipe can give anything from turbo to egr via swirl flaps.

Many has done resistor shunt, just be sure connector is well sealed and flaps jammed to open position. SOme put spare motor whirring freely somewhere in engine bay.

 

[Stocho]

Sometimes other boost pressure related fault can be 'cloaked' by another (especially if codes nor read by SDS). And its very usual one fault triggers multiple codes since all are boost related - car sees implausibility between asked and reached pressure, algorithm triggers fault. Simply splitted boost pipe can give anything from turbo to egr via swirl flaps.

Many has done resistor shunt, just be sure connector is well sealed and flaps jammed to open position. SOme put spare motor whirring freely somewhere in engine bay.

Thanks a lot. I actually suspect there is a tiny split of some kind somewhere. When I rev the engine (4000 and above) some (very little) smoke is seen coming approximately from the area where the red oil dipstick is. The smoke can be seen only when I start revving it and when I stop revving it - not when revving it for a prolonged period.

I sealed the socket with several layers of foil that cold be bent into the shape, as electrical tape would not stick to it. This way it hopefully will not be full of oil. how to jamm the flaps in open position? Are they reasonably accessible?

 

[mersum1es]

quick DIY (assuming connecting rod to passenger side is still solid)

My car has Rough Idle on cold start and No power after...

www.benzworld.org

 

[tcb180]

Hi All,

I addition to intermittent gear selector problem whereby the gear is not going from Neutral to Reverse unless brake pedal is released (W211 E320CDI 2007 facelift intermittently gets stuck in Drive gear), which now happens very rarely, my car developed another intermittent problem.

About 25% of the time when I start my car from cold the car is underpowered due to a loss of turbo (or so I think). If such loss of power occurs, using manual gear selection enables me to get the car up to any reasonable speed (70mph no problem) - obviously, not as quickly as with turbo, though. When this problem occurs just switching the ignition off and on, even very briefly such as at red traffic lights, more often than not cures the problem. Sometimes the problem occurs even when the car is started warm. Dashboard check engine light appears and disappears (when driven several times without the problem it disappears, then when problems occur several times in succession it reappears).

There is never any juddering. I noticed even when I have this turbo problem it generally appears after about 10 seconds of driving and I have been trying to capture that moment of turbo loss by trying to accelerate heavily for the first ten seconds from start - but was never able to capture the moment.

I had started using Shell Premium Diesel with the view of clearing the systems of various deposits just before this problem started. Switching to Costco Premium Diesel seemed to coincide with reduction in frequency of this problem. Perhaps this is a coincidence, perhaps not.

In the past I had an actuator fault on another E320CDI facelift but there was a lot of juddering shortly after starting a car and turbo-power would be lost only after severe juddering.- and there is no any juddering at all with the present car.

Any thoughts on what could be the problem are welcome! Thanks a lot in advance or any repplies!

I had this problem with the actuator so bought a so called plug and play off ebay. Not long after same happened so firm suggested variable vanes get mucked up in turbo. As they directed i used 2x Forte turbo cleaner as per instructions but I put it into 50ltrs of fuel. Was ok for a while but started doing it again from cold. See my recent post re swirl flap and egr delete. I had turbo refurb via Turbo Dynamics. Can't praise them enough. Dont accept that actuator is plug and play as its not according to Turbo Dynamics. There is a whole lot of muck that runs through these engines. Mine is now cured.

 

[Stocho]

quick DIY (assuming connecting rod to passenger side is still solid)

My car has Rough Idle on cold start and No power after...

www.benzworld.org

Is it actually needed? I had my car serviced (by a mechanic that works for a very top independent MB specialist, though the top specialist was not in at that time) and the mechanic said no need to do anything after resistor fix as the flaps will be in the correct position by default.

 

[Stocho]

The resistor fix fixed the problem until last week. The car has even been serviced with that fix and I was advised putting a resistor is sufficient - no need to fix flaps in some position.

Last week the problem reappeared. I thought the resistor I put in was having a poor connection - thought would be an easy fix for me to be done in 20-30 minutes. However putting a different resistor in and trying to make the connection as firm and sound as I could did not help. No amount of trying would fix the issue and the P0244 Turbocharger /Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range / Performance would return within seconds of being cleared - even with the engine off (and key in the pre-ignition position).

While playing and trying to adjust the resistor to make sure the electrical connection is sound the following error would appear intermittently: "P2008- Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open, Location: Bank 1a". I suspect it might mean that the electrical cable is not sound and pulling that plug to adjust / insert resistors temporarily caused some other electricals problems.

When I started my efforts the turbo actuator was moving when the engine was started. Then after about 30 minutes of me trying to adjust the resistor and start and rev the car the actuator became dead - i.e. it would not move at all when the car was started. .... Then after some time it started moving again.

Then when I gave up fixing the problem and was trying for the last time - just to make sure new errors like P2008 have not become a permanent feature rather than hoping that P0244 was fixed - it showed no errors and allowed me to rev engine to full power. I do expect the problem to come back though.

Any ideas what could be the problem? The cable appears to be made of quite sturdy wires but it does run very close to the often-hot exhaust pipe. Could it be the cable to the plug where the resistor fix is or is something else more likely to be at fault? I am tempted to just cut off that plug altogether that would enable to get more of the cable out from the other side of the exhaust pipe and actually clamp resistors to the wires. Is this a good idea (as reattaching the plug would then be almost impossible)? Anything else I should try?

 

[mersum1es]

If connection bars are good, motor spring will keep them open, right.

Sounds like wiring problem, true.

 

[Stocho]

If connection bars are good, motor spring will keep them open, right.

Sounds like wiring problem, true.

So I suppose to totally eliminate the possibility of connection problems between the resistor and plug terminals I could cut off the plug and use chocolate block. This would also allow me to pull the cable out from the other side of the exhaust pipe that is running on the top of the engine and also make it more accessible / relieve any potential tension on it.

If that fails I suppose the next thing to try would be to put the resistor across the same wires but closer to the ECU or wherever they actually end up? Where do the wires from he plug actually end up and how easy are they to access from that end?

Anything else I should / could try?

 

[mersum1es]

I think wires go to ECU. Wiring diagram would tell which pins.

Is your battery at good health? Low voltage cause gremlins around the car.

Turbo actuator is good 100%?

 

[Stocho]

I think wires go to ECU. Wiring diagram would tell which pins.

Is your battery at good health? Low voltage cause gremlins around the car.

Turbo actuator is good 100%?

Thanks for the reply.

I believe battery is not a problem because this car always starts in 1-2 seconds, over the last week I actually charged it using CTEK charger and it did not fix the problem. Also once the car is warm (although this causality conclusion can be wrong) and restarted sometimes Turbo is "fixed" only stop working during driving after say 20 minutes - when alternator and not the battery is powering the electrics of the car.

With regard to he actuator can not be sure it is good though back in May it was not he actuator, it was the resistor that fixed the car. Unfortunately prior to trying he resistor fix I did try to fix the actuator and made quite a mess there - se picture in post 23 above (E320CDI 2007 Intermittent loss of Turbo Power | Engine) So I am not sure that I can even send such an actuator for a rebuild with all the fine dust debris from my attempts to prepare contacts for soldering and my soldering efforts....