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Engine will not rev above 3000rpm & gearbox will not kick down

Just to add to my post, Transmission fluid and filter changed at 131000 miles, engine oil and filter + fuel filter, air filters changed at 139000 miles during lockdown.

I do all the work myself as I used to be a HGV technician but that was 20 years ago, back then you could see the fault, now its all hidden in electronics, it was a lot easier to diagnose faults then.

cheers.
 
Last edited:
derekpayne said:
Just to add to my post, Transmission fluid and filter changed at 131000 miles, engine oil and filter + fuel filter, air filters changed at 139000 miles during lockdown.

I do all the work myself as I used to be a HGV technician but that was 20 years ago, back then you could see the fault, now its all hidden in electronics, it was a lot easier to diagnose faults then.

cheers.
Click to expand...
You are well overdue for actuator and swirl flap/ilps issues then buddy
 
streethawk said:
My dads c320 cdi non dpf has just thrown a mil and no power. Rac plugged it in and say its swirl flaps. If they are stuck open would it still reduce power in limp mode or can we assume there stuck shut? Sorry for the thread hijack 👍.
Click to expand...


Try the resistor mod ...
 
Hello everyone, new here. Joined the group because I thought you may be able to help with my current situation regarding the C320 CDI 08 i bought two years ago. The car is the one in my DP.

So long story short, i picked it up as a bargain (big mistake). I have forked out probably 2.5k on doing it up since and now finally I'm at tethers end. The car is juddering when I am going through the gears. So from 1 to 2 it's juddering until i press the paddle shift. This happens with the following gears too.

Problem started when the car went in to limp mode and engine light got the following codes P2009 P0489 P0245 B2AA. The car was seen and the mechanic said there had been a blown fuse, and that the import shut off motor needed replacing. Whilst doing this they noticed that the manifolds arms were missing (yes missing) i don't know how, i don't know who but yes they're saying it's not there and to replace they would need to buy the right and left arms and then it's a 7 hour job + vat. Looking at £1.3k!...so here I am pulling my hairs out thinking there must be another way?

I few spoke to two other locals ones a specialist and one is not. The specialist said he could do the job for 1k inclusive of vat. The local non-specialist has said to do a stage 1 remap, to tell the car that the manifold arms are not there. This would cost £300 to do.

Can anyone shed light on the pro's and cons of this? I bought the car for the long term and because I've invested in it so heavily, i don't want to give it up. So any advice would be helpful. If you know any good mechanics in Manchester that can do this job cheaper than my current quotes that would be appreciated too.

I'm hoping to rely on your lots experience and know how. Hopefully I'll be here a long time!

Thanks!
 
Gooner198o said:
Hello everyone, new here. Joined the group because I thought you may be able to help with my current situation regarding the C320 CDI 08 i bought two years ago. The car is the one in my DP.

So long story short, i picked it up as a bargain (big mistake). I have forked out probably 2.5k on doing it up since and now finally I'm at tethers end. The car is juddering when I am going through the gears. So from 1 to 2 it's juddering until i press the paddle shift. This happens with the following gears too.

Problem started when the car went in to limp mode and engine light got the following codes P2009 P0489 P0245 B2AA. The car was seen and the mechanic said there had been a blown fuse, and that the import shut off motor needed replacing. Whilst doing this they noticed that the manifolds arms were missing (yes missing) i don't know how, i don't know who but yes they're saying it's not there and to replace they would need to buy the right and left arms and then it's a 7 hour job + vat. Looking at £1.3k!...so here I am pulling my hairs out thinking there must be another way?

I few spoke to two other locals ones a specialist and one is not. The specialist said he could do the job for 1k inclusive of vat. The local non-specialist has said to do a stage 1 remap, to tell the car that the manifold arms are not there. This would cost £300 to do.

Can anyone shed light on the pro's and cons of this? I bought the car for the long term and because I've invested in it so heavily, i don't want to give it up. So any advice would be helpful. If you know any good mechanics in Manchester that can do this job cheaper than my current quotes that would be appreciated too.

I'm hoping to rely on your lots experience and know how. Hopefully I'll be here a long time!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Try the resistor mod first.
 
Gooner198o said:
Hello everyone, new here. Joined the group because I thought you may be able to help with my current situation regarding the C320 CDI 08 i bought two years ago. The car is the one in my DP.

So long story short, i picked it up as a bargain (big mistake). I have forked out probably 2.5k on doing it up since and now finally I'm at tethers end. The car is juddering when I am going through the gears. So from 1 to 2 it's juddering until i press the paddle shift. This happens with the following gears too.

Problem started when the car went in to limp mode and engine light got the following codes P2009 P0489 P0245 B2AA. The car was seen and the mechanic said there had been a blown fuse, and that the import shut off motor needed replacing. Whilst doing this they noticed that the manifolds arms were missing (yes missing) i don't know how, i don't know who but yes they're saying it's not there and to replace they would need to buy the right and left arms and then it's a 7 hour job + vat. Looking at £1.3k!...so here I am pulling my hairs out thinking there must be another way?

I few spoke to two other locals ones a specialist and one is not. The specialist said he could do the job for 1k inclusive of vat. The local non-specialist has said to do a stage 1 remap, to tell the car that the manifold arms are not there. This would cost £300 to do.

Can anyone shed light on the pro's and cons of this? I bought the car for the long term and because I've invested in it so heavily, i don't want to give it up. So any advice would be helpful. If you know any good mechanics in Manchester that can do this job cheaper than my current quotes that would be appreciated too.

I'm hoping to rely on your lots experience and know how. Hopefully I'll be here a long time!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yep , try the resistor mod first gets my vote as well
 
My money is on the actuator - stripping, cleaning and greasing is an easy fix. Just put a piece of thread / fishing line around the circlip, saves pulling the engine out to find it when you drop it ;)

OM642 Turbo actuator | Engine

First the background - 2008 CLS 3.0CDI, bought with 118K on the clock. Ran well but about four times, when it was hot, I got the famous juddering that is normally associated with a fault with the turbo actuator. Took the actuator off, opened it up and cleaned out the black carbon dust that had...
forums.mbclub.co.uk forums.mbclub.co.uk
 
Removed the Turbo Actuator cover today, checked the little wires connecting to the PCB and found when I touched one of them it fell off, so removed the another one by touching it also, and soldered 2 new bits of wire, I gently drilled the bases of the contacts, as they are zink plated and will not solder, until I could see bare brass below, and soldered the new pieces of wire. Unfortunately I didn't have any flux so it was a bit of a faf, I will do it again properly at the weekend with flux.

Anyway the job seems to have done the trick for now as when I first fitted the cover back, one of the wires was not connected properly and when I started the engine, it would not rev up above 3000 rpm the symptoms I got were exactly the same as I had on the road at the weekend, so I removed it and resoldered the wire.

I will repost when I have run it for a while to let you know the outcome.

Cheers
 
Thanks for the reply. Do you have a link to the resistor mod? Part and possibly a video? Is this something I can do myself?
 
Gooner198o said:
Thanks for the reply. Do you have a link to the resistor mod? Part and possibly a video? Is this something I can do myself?
Click to expand...
Remove the turbo air intake “batwing “ below it you will see an electrical connection going into the inlet motor (behind the fuel filter) , disconnect this Electrical connection and plug a 4.7k ohm resistor into the middle two terminals , the tape it up with electrical tape ....simples :)
 
Thanks guys. I will try this on the weekend and see what happens. Have you guys heard of my current problem before? What makes you think this resistor mod will do the trick? Cheers!
 
The resistor tricks the ecu into thinking the swirlflap motor and connecting arms are fully functioning.
 
Gooner198o said:
Thanks guys. I will try this on the weekend and see what happens. Have you guys heard of my current problem before? What makes you think this resistor mod will do the trick? Cheers!
Click to expand...
It’s a really cheap easy check , so you might waste an hour and £2 . Well worth trying , I think my resistor has been in for nearly 2 years now
 
W1ghty said:
It’s a really cheap easy check , so you might waste an hour and £2 . Well worth trying , I think my resistor has been in for nearly 2 years now
Click to expand...

Hi mate,

I've got the resistors and will be attempting this tomorrow. Do i need any tools for this? Is this area easy to get to? I'm a noob to cars so would appreciate the help. Also I'm hoping I can do as much DIY stuff as possible when it comes to cars. Is there any reading/videos it there that will help me at all?

Cheers
 
Gooner198o said:
Hi mate,

I've got the resistors and will be attempting this tomorrow. Do i need any tools for this? Is this area easy to get to? I'm a noob to cars so would appreciate the help. Also I'm hoping I can do as much DIY stuff as possible when it comes to cars. Is there any reading/videos it there that will help me at all?

Cheers
Click to expand...


You need to remove the bat wing , all you need is a
screwdriver , what you need to get at is the swirl flap motor which sits under the turbo, just where the fuel filter is in the centre . Disconnect both mafs, undo jubilee clips at both ends and on the turbo seal . Then simply remove the whole thing . Check the red seal isnt leaking oil residue onto the motor ,if it looks like it is replace it . Your choice .
P6040317.jpg
 
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^^^ wot he said .
Bend each end of the resistor over on themselves into u shapes so they fit the electrical connector better
You may also want to loosen the two bolts on each air filter box to allow more space for the batwing to lift it out
 
Hello guys trying to do this trick. I'm guessing that's what i need yi pull off but it's tough to get up. I don't want to pull too hard in case i snap anything off? Any tricks on how to get it off without breaking it?
 

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