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Fault code P0237 Help

jonnyboy82

Active Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Messages
134
Location
North London
Car
'55' CLK55 AMG
Recently picked up my new 13 plate c250 sport with only 57k in the clock. After 3 days of use EML has come on and it hesitating and doesn’t let me past 3k revs?

Had a mechanic friend scan it and it’s thrown up fault code P0237. I have already tried another engine control module and still no change. And from a good visual can’t see a split pipe anywhere?

Anyone have any faults on this or anything I might have missed?


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I would check again for a split boost pipe, even if you cannot see anything, then listen, hold a piece of garden hose to your ear, while an assistant revs the engine gently and probe about, especially at joints, as even a tiny split will cause it to throw a code.

Steve.
 
I would check again for a split boost pipe, even if you cannot see anything, then listen, hold a piece of garden hose to your ear, while an assistant revs the engine gently and probe about, especially at joints, as even a tiny split will cause it to throw a code.

Steve.

Thanks Steve will investigate this weekend and report back [emoji1303]


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After further inspection it’s still not resolved. Looked tirelessly and I cannot find a leak. I don’t think it can be a leak as I’ve low boost. The car is so sluggish to drive! It must surely be something to do with the engine management system!

I’ve also changed the ECM which made no difference.


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Did you change the map sensor ?
 
If you have no obvious air leaks . Well then yes . The map detects boost pressure high and low. £25 ish . Check wiring and pins on old unit first for dirt /damage.
 
If you have no obvious air leaks . Well then yes . The map detects boost pressure high and low. £25 ish . Check wiring and pins on old unit first for dirt /damage.

Ok, will give a try. [emoji1303]


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So it turned out to be a faulty boost sensor. Cheap fix happy days. And if anyone is looking for decent specialist I’d deffo recommend Merctech.


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So it turned out to be a faulty boost sensor. Cheap fix happy days. And if anyone is looking for decent specialist I’d deffo recommend Merctech.


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Hi Jonnyboy, which sensor did you replace, I have the same issue, I can see the top one on the front left hand side but I'm struggling to see the one on the rhs.
Does the P0237 point to one specific sensor or is it both?
Also I noticed somebody said see if the actuator was free, how is this achieved do you just grab the rod and move it in and out, I was concerned that I may do some damage. I have an E 220 D 2013 any help would be much appreciated.
 
Hi Jonnyboy, which sensor did you replace, I have the same issue, I can see the top one on the front left hand side but I'm struggling to see the one on the rhs.
Does the P0237 point to one specific sensor or is it both?
Also I noticed somebody said see if the actuator was free, how is this achieved do you just grab the rod and move it in and out, I was concerned that I may do some damage. I have an E 220 D 2013 any help would be much appreciated.

Which sensors are you looking at ?
 
Hi I want to find the sensor responsible for "P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low" it had been intermittent but today it appears to be a permanent fault, no power not running through the gears due to the lack of power.
Have you had the car scanned for error codes firstly ?? If so and you have p0237.


Watch this video. Your map will be pretty much in the same place , thick air trunking to airbox / turbo.

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Have you had the car scanned for error codes firstly ?? If so and you have p0237.


Watch this video. Your map will be pretty much in the same place , thick air trunking to airbox / turbo.

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Hi.
All sorted, I scanned the car with a better tool than mine and it produced the same code but with more information, it said it was the P0237 and was shorted to ground.
It doesn't tell you there are two boost sensors, one easy one on the top left front and one on the right hand side beneath the vacuum chamber.
I changed the easiest one first and that made no difference of course
Now the other one is a different kettle of fish, I have hands like shovels this doesn't help.
I released the 3 fixings holding the vacuum chamber and this allowed me a bit more room and a better view.
You need a T25 torx to get these sensors off and in the case of the one I'm on now a long T25 is best, I would recommend a magnetic tool or have a magnet handy or you will loose the screws. Got the screws out and popped out the sensor again it's tight in there with big hands but I managed to release the connector.
Yay it's out..... Popped the new sensor in, by feel and managed to fit the RH screw without to much problem and wound it a few turns in, the LH screw was more of a problem as its slightly obscured by a vacuum pipe, after some choice words we opted to secure the screw to the driver with a bit of masking tape this meant I could insert it with my hands out of the way giving me a better view, finally I got both screws done up and reconnected the plug.
I put everything back together and reset the code.
Time for a test drive, unfortunately the main road was chocker block and rolling at about 5 mph, I had to put up with this for about a quarter of a mile before I could get onto a road with no cars, previously when accelerating it was labored and the gears wouldn't change until about 3k but guess what 2k with a lovely smooth change and off she went all the power was back, I'm so pleased it's fixed and the sunshine is out.
I hope this helps anyone else with the same issue. Parts acquired from Euro Car Parts both were in stock.
Have a good weekend 👍
 

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