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Great Value Dashcam

I was driving home through the very narrow lanes near our house in the summer and pulled up, very slowly, behind a cyclist who was riding in the middle of the road.

He didn’t see us (my wife was also in the car) so I gave the horn the gentlest of touches, worried he might veer to the right as we passed.

And with that all hell let loose. He literally started foaming at the mouth, slammed on his breaks and forced us to stop.

F’ing this, f’ing that. Banging his hands on the bonnet and generally acting like he was about to explode and, or have a heart attack.

My wife and I just sat there gobsmacked given we thought we’d done everything right. But clearly not.

It almost got nasty from there on as I tried persuading the prat that we sounded the horn for his protection. He was having none of it.

Anyway. It calmed down when I got out of the car and he jumped back on his bike complete with v signs given in a way I’d not seen since infants school.

Now I wonder how that whole event would have been perceived by the authorities had I either accidentally knocked him over, or restrained him when he started throwing foul mouth expletives at my wife through the window. Barely 2 feet from her face.

So. From that moment on I decided, given the non existent police force in our part of the world, that I needed a dash cam or two.

The trouble is which one? I’ve no intention of having power cables dangling over the dash and back window and it makes me wonder why, Audi in my case, don’t put power outlets on the rear view mirror. It would make it so much simpler to install a permanent device - but that, would be too easy.

I had a similar incident where, while driving down a narrow road and pulling onto the verge to allow a van to pass, he sped past me ripping off my door mirror. On engaging him and his mate, he insisted that I was in the wrong and that I had tried to force him off the road.

Showing the footage to the Police later confirmed that I had pulled up on to the verge while the other driver had driven past me at speed. It also showed the abuse my elderly mother and I received at the hands of this (high on canabis?) driver and his fouled mouthed mate.

With the DashCam, the driver was warned by Police to cool it. Without it, my insurance company would have probably paid for the repair of their vehicle. In other words, the DashCam dispelled the 'his word against your word' scenario we often see the Police dealing with.

Anyway, I have two DashCams. The expensive one is a Transcend DrivePro200 and the cheap one is an EPrance which, to be honest, performs better than the Transcend. It doesn't seem to be affected by direct sunlight as much as the more expensive one, and I've had it installed now for some three years now.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IPDDAME/?tag=amazon0e9db-21
 
Something worth thinking about when making your purchase:

Most of these camera's require Class 10 SD Cards (Micro). Anything less and the playback is not guaranteed to be (a) good quality. (b) actually saved for when you need it.

Also you should you check if it has:

Automatic day and night mode switching, triggered by ambient light.
Anti-glare and shake.
Date & Time displayed on the video.
High Definition 1080i output & recording.
Parking Mode. Switches the camera 'on to record' if it detects a "thump" (car park ding)
G-Sensor. This will save any section of recording loop if the car detects a "thump" as in an crash. IT saves you (no pun) having to remember to save that file at a time of stress.

Without the above you may be buying a chocolate tea pot as the video will not be considered "evidence quality" in the event you ever wish to use it in anger.

They "can" generate a lot of noise on the power line that leads to interference on the video and in the cars systems. If possible use a quality hard-wire installation kit that comes with "ferric beads" to help reduce any interference.

Most hardwire kits today "should" come with a blade fuse piggyback adapter. This allows you to simply take power from an existing (switched power) blade fuse in your car.

1. Unplug the chosen fuse.
2. Plug in your adapter to the now empty fuse slot.
3) Plug your removed fuse into the empty slot on the adapter.
4) Test that the camera switches on/off as designed with the cars ignition (switched)

With all of the above, you can then line it up, and forget about it. As mentioned earlier. It is worth every now and again testing the playback to be certain that all is working as you would expect.

For those who say "why bother" there is no need to bother at all. It is just another tool in the bag that can help you in the event that an incident occurs to you that requires witness's.

I was recently (another true story) forced off the road, to my right, on a roundabout approach, with traffic lights. No damage done and I would have just got on with life (annoyed). The people who forced me off the road? The Police....... Who, seemingly not able to judge a gap between my car and a car on my inside (we were both stationary in a long queue of traffic at the lights) decided to shout at me to move to my right (I had no room to move or would have already done so). They then proceeded to attempt to get through a gap that was not there, whilst shouting at me to "move my "f'ing car".

Two days later, I was visited at home by the Police asking why I had failed to allow them through? I went out to my car, brought in the memory card and replayed the video (whoops). A full and well meant apology from Kent Police was immediately offered up. This was then followed up by them checking their own in car video and audio, which backed up my evidence that I could not move right or left, forwards or backwards. I was asked what I wished to happen to the two officers concerned, who, had lodged a complaint against me!!! I asked that they be reminded that dash cams are now a fact of life in everyday motoring and they should re-consider their attitude. I also stressed that I would be watching for any erroneous traffic stops on my car/reg.
 
Something worth thinking about when making your purchase:

Most of these camera's require Class 10 SD Cards (Micro). Anything less and the playback is not guaranteed to be (a) good quality. (b) actually saved for when you need it.

Also you should you check if it has:

Automatic day and night mode switching, triggered by ambient light.
Anti-glare and shake.
Date & Time displayed on the video.
High Definition 1080i output & recording.
Parking Mode. Switches the camera 'on to record' if it detects a "thump" (car park ding)
G-Sensor. This will save any section of recording loop if the car detects a "thump" as in an crash. IT saves you (no pun) having to remember to save that file at a time of stress.

Without the above you may be buying a chocolate tea pot as the video will not be considered "evidence quality" in the event you ever wish to use it in anger.

They "can" generate a lot of noise on the power line that leads to interference on the video and in the cars systems. If possible use a quality hard-wire installation kit that comes with "ferric beads" to help reduce any interference.

Most hardwire kits today "should" come with a blade fuse piggyback adapter. This allows you to simply take power from an existing (switched power) blade fuse in your car.

1. Unplug the chosen fuse.
2. Plug in your adapter to the now empty fuse slot.
3) Plug your removed fuse into the empty slot on the adapter.
4) Test that the camera switches on/off as designed with the cars ignition (switched)

With all of the above, you can then line it up, and forget about it. As mentioned earlier. It is worth every now and again testing the playback to be certain that all is working as you would expect.

For those who say "why bother" there is no need to bother at all. It is just another tool in the bag that can help you in the event that an incident occurs to you that requires witness's.

I was recently (another true story) forced off the road, to my right, on a roundabout approach, with traffic lights. No damage done and I would have just got on with life (annoyed). The people who forced me off the road? The Police....... Who, seemingly not able to judge a gap between my car and a car on my inside (we were both stationary in a long queue of traffic at the lights) decided to shout at me to move to my right (I had no room to move or would have already done so). They then proceeded to attempt to get through a gap that was not there, whilst shouting at me to "move my "f'ing car".

Two days later, I was visited at home by the Police asking why I had failed to allow them through? I went out to my car, brought in the memory card and replayed the video (whoops). A full and well meant apology from Kent Police was immediately offered up. This was then followed up by them checking their own in car video and audio, which backed up my evidence that I could not move right or left, forwards or backwards. I was asked what I wished to happen to the two officers concerned, who, had lodged a complaint against me!!! I asked that they be reminded that dash cams are now a fact of life in everyday motoring and they should re-consider their attitude. I also stressed that I would be watching for any erroneous traffic stops on my car/reg.

Hi Bruce, what dash cam do you have fitted in your car ?
 
I got hit by a lorry on the M1 at the beginning of December, he wanted the bit of tarmac I was on at the time. We both pulled over, he didn't speak English and my Polish is non-existent. He seemed very apologetic and passed me his phone. On the other end of the line was someone in his office who explained the driver would produce his insurance details (which he did) but it was all in Polish. I took a photo of my car, his lorry and the document before we went our separate ways. Anyway, no one else stopped (so no witnesses), it turns out the trailer registration didn't match the document and as such I have no real evidence as such. At least dashcam footage would have shown me driving along before suddenly being hit. If nothing else it would show I was not at fault. That seems to be the main point of them to me...
 
Hi Bruce, what dash cam do you have fitted in your car ?

I have the NextBase Duo. That is a single unit with a front and rear facing lenses.

I went through hoops to get to this camera and now have two of them (in different cars)

They tick every box and just work. No hassle just leave them on auto. I check the actual operation once every few weeks but they have never not worked.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have the NextBase Duo. That is a single unit with a front and rear facing lenses.

I went through hoops to get to this camera and now have two of them (in different cars)

They tick every box and just work. No hassle just leave them on auto. I check the actual operation once every few weeks but they have never not worked.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks will have a look as may purchase one soon
 
Thanks will have a look as may purchase one soon

Halfords sell them, usually at very keen prices, they manage to beat most online deals. Certainly worth a look as they also install for you (awaits howls of derision).

Blackvue are also very highly rated. My research led me to one conclusion. You get what you pay for. Cheap is often cheap as it lacks features and function.

My simple end goal was: why do I want this?

Answer: I may want it as evidence in court.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Be careful with these cheap dashcams, I once had one and it only recorded when it wanted to, I used to check the sd card and big chunks of my driving hadn't been recorded.

For the last couple of years I've been using a mini 0806 and this one is around 99% accurate and cost less than £100.

I can assure you this one is absolutely brilliant... records everything. I have been using it a while. Also has one of the best image quality, look up reviews etc
 
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Just a quick question on dashcams in general - do people tend to leave them in the car, or do they remove them when parked? I'm thinking of getting one, but my car is sometimes parked overnight on the street in London, and I'm not sure about leaving one in the car.
 
Just a quick question on dashcams in general - do people tend to leave them in the car, or do they remove them when parked? I'm thinking of getting one, but my car is sometimes parked overnight on the street in London, and I'm not sure about leaving one in the car.

Leave in car, leaving in a London street id want parking mode to record if some ****** hit your car and doesn’t leave details
 
For anyone who thinks they don't need a dash cam, check out the following youtube video

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I have this one
Original 4.0 Inch IPS Screen Car DVR Novatek NTK96658 Car Camera T810 Dash Camera Full HD 1080P Video 170 Degree Dash Cam-in DVR/Dash Camera from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
for 9 months now and so far it’s been working quite good without any issues. Plus side is that it comes with a rearview camera (which I couldn’t bother installing), has a parking mode (has to be live wired, again couldn’t bother), wires are long and thin and makes HD quality 1080p 3min clips.
Negative side is that the color of it I didn’t like so got it painted in black and now it blends nice with rear view mirror.
 
I suppose a dashcam is like a fire extinguisher, it's just there in case. You might have one installed for 20 years and be fortunate enough to not to use it as evidence.

I find 1080p isn't quite high enough resolution, and the frame rate of 30fps isn't quite fast enough to capture and freeze motion of fast moving number plates which can be a blur. There are higher 1440p resolution cams now and 60fps rates which I would recommend, and generally night performance (low noise) has improved with newer models.

I have front and rear cams recording at 1440p at 30fps, but wish I had 60fps.
4k cams should be around the corner, but recording continuously the processor will possibly burn itself out in no time with all the heat it's generating.
 
I suppose a dashcam is like a fire extinguisher, it's just there in case. You might have one installed for 20 years and be fortunate enough to not to use it as evidence.

I find 1080p isn't quite high enough resolution, and the frame rate of 30fps isn't quite fast enough to capture and freeze motion of fast moving number plates which can be a blur. There are higher 1440p resolution cams now and 60fps rates which I would recommend, and generally night performance (low noise) has improved with newer models.

I have front and rear cams recording at 1440p at 30fps, but wish I had 60fps.
4k cams should be around the corner, but recording continuously the processor will possibly burn itself out in no time with all the heat it's generating.

Linked cam does 1080 60, and 2304*1296 at 30.
 

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