Helppp Timing Chain issue

[Mferti]

my timing chain was replaced about 5 days ago, i have changed the guides, sprockets, tensioner and both chains that are in my car, my car is a 2010 c180 cgi w204, however i just have noticed that when i do a cold start, my engine makes a rattle sound for about 1-2 seconds, people are telling me that its normal, but im not sure, when i turn it off and put it back on the rattle sound does not happen again, i need some help please, i will attach links to videos i have posted on youtube, click them to see

Engine running

Cold start noise

 

[ernie]

my timing chain was replaced about 5 days ago, i have changed the guides, sprockets, tensioner and both chains that are in my car, my car is a 2010 c180 cgi w204, however i just have noticed that when i do a cold start, my engine makes a rattle sound for about 1-2 seconds, people are telling me that its normal, but im not sure, when i turn it off and put it back on the rattle sound does not happen again, i need some help please, i will attach links to videos i have posted on youtube, click them to see

Engine running

Cold start noise

Sounds like the tappets pressurising on the initial cold start-up; subsequent starts ok because they are then filled. Sound normal, but others can say.

Ernie

 

[suty455]

make sure you use a decent filter which has a valve to stop bleedback to the sump and that the oil is thin enough to get round first thing on cold days

 

[Mferti]

Sounds like the tappets pressurising on the initial cold start-up; subsequent starts ok because they are then filled. Sound normal, but others can say.

Ernie

make sure you use a decent filter which has a valve to stop bleedback to the sump and that the oil is thin enough to get round first thing on cold days

Thanks for the reply guys, i have spoken to the mechanic, a merc specialist, that done the job he said its normal, had some further clarification from other people as well as specialists, also the oil i have used is 5w40 is that why it makes the noise because it is thicker oil compared to 5w30

 

[Teego]

Thanks for the reply guys, i have spoken to the mechanic, a merc specialist, that done the job he said its normal, had some further clarification from other people as well as specialists, also the oil i have used is 5w40 is that why it makes the noise because it is thicker oil compared to 5w30

No. Its the same when cold but thicker when hot. So it's fine. Just as long as its a quality oil like Mobil 1.

 

[Mferti]

No. Its the same when cold but thicker when hot. So it's fine. Just as long as its a quality oil like Mobil 1.

Yeah the mechanic put in original 5w40 mercedes oil in my engine so everything should be ok

 

[suty455]

Personally I use 0W 40 Mobil 1 irrespective of engine and always have i just prefer it for cold starts as its literally like water, have never had any wear issues on any of my vehicles and 1 did cover well over 300k

 

[Teego]

Personally I use 0W 40 Mobil 1 irrespective of engine and always have i just prefer it for cold starts as its literally like water, have never had any wear issues on any of my vehicles and 1 did cover well over 300k

Yes, my indy switched me to 0w40 a couple of years ago. All good and never uses any.

 

[Mferti]

Personally I use 0W 40 Mobil 1 irrespective of engine and always have i just prefer it for cold starts as its literally like water, have never had any wear issues on any of my vehicles and 1 did cover well over 300k

Do you think if i do use 0W 40 it will eradicate the noise? Also is that oil type good in summer months.

 

[suty455]

Do you think if i do use 0W 40 it will eradicate the noise? Also is that oil type good in summer months.

I cant say if it will eradicate the noise because I have no idea why its noisy, however what it will do is move around the Engine faster on cold starts where 75% or more of wear takes place, oils or at least Car Engine oils are based on Viscosity for most parts so if we look for example at the 60s or earlier there was only a summer oil which would be a SAE 50 to enable it to maintain film strength when hot and in winter you would use a thinner oil so say a SAE20 (w) to allow easier cranking and circulation first thing.
Multigrades changed all that as they are now a combined formulation so in short yes a 0w(winter)/40(summer) covers both ends of the spectrum, typically modern oils also have lots of additives to reduce ash and hold any particulates in suspension that are too small for the filter to remove as an oil is used or ages it loses its ability to hold the particulates, this is called its service life, the reason cars that have neglected oil changes wear out is because the oil basically changes into a grinding paste.
Synthetics can be individually formulated to improve lots of oil characteristics and one of the better side effects is they clean the inside of a dirty engine very well, its advisable when you first use a full synthetic oil to shorten the service interval to enable all the crud that its removed from the interior of the engine to be dumped, typically I give it 3000 miles on the first change and thereafter do it as normal.
Short answer yes its suitable for summer.
Look at the oil you choose carefully not all synthetics are what they claim to be a lot of them are synthetic based oil with Mineral oil added into the mix to decrease the cost, really you should ignore the SAE 0w/40 (as the main indicator of suitability) etc stuff as its just a measure of viscosity instead look at the ACEA rating which tells you the service life and suitability for your Engine based on information provided by the oil manufacturer so for a typical modern Euro 6 Diesel or Petrol you need to be looking for ACEA C4 oil these oils are suitable for low sulphur fuels and are designed to minimise evaporation and blow by on seals and piston rings to try and extend the life of the CAT and DPF.
Oils a fascinating subject and really the unsung hero of modern vehicle developments in fuel efficient and high revving engines.