Inherited a CLK 200 Kompressor (2000)

[ht23]

Just thought I'd say Hi after inheriting a CLK 200 Kompessor.

My Grandad owned the car for a number of years before passing in 2019 when my Dad then inherited the car. Unfortunately Dad passed in February and I inherited the car. Really hoping to keep it on the road and going for many years to come. It's done about 120,000 miles.

The body work is a tatty and will need a fair bit of attention. There is some welding work to be done (some of which is happening at the moment) but really, it's in a pretty good shape mechanically. I know that any money spent is probably pointless given the value of the car but ultimately, I don't intend to sell it so that's irrelevant.

I've got some ideas in mind to tidy it up and make it a bit more me and will no doubt have many questions along the way.

Current To Do:

• Fix dent in drivers side wing
• New front bumper
• Fix scrape in rear bumper
• Fix small bubbling on some arches, around rear numberplace and bonnet lip
• Welding on front passenger suspension mount (in progress)
• Welding in front drivers side wheel well
• Clean random sticky patches from coating on buttons

Any advice regarding the car etc is welcome.

 

[W1ghty]

Just thought I'd say Hi after inheriting a CLK 200 Kompessor.

My Grandad owned the car for a number of years before passing in 2019 when my Dad then inherited the car. Unfortunately Dad passed in February and I inherited the car. Really hoping to keep it on the road and going for many years to come. It's done about 120,000 miles.

The body work is a tatty and will need a fair bit of attention. There is some welding work to be done (some of which is happening at the moment) but really, it's in a pretty good shape mechanically. I know that any money spent is probably pointless given the value of the car but ultimately, I don't intend to sell it so that's irrelevant.

I've got some ideas in mind to tidy it up and make it a bit more me and will no doubt have many questions along the way.

Current To Do:

• Fix dent in drivers side wing
• New front bumper
• Fix scrape in rear bumper
• Fix small bubbling on some arches, around rear numberplace and bonnet lip
• Welding on front passenger suspension mount (in progress)
• Welding in front drivers side wheel well
• Clean random sticky patches from coating on buttons

Any advice regarding the car etc is welcome.

Welcome buddy , before you spend too much , get the rear subframe checked for holes/rust …common problem and have a read up on the “M271 cam chain problems” .
The car is likely to need a new cam chain/gears at that mileage .

 

[ht23]

Welcome buddy , before you spend too much , get the rear subframe checked for holes/rust …common problem and have a read up on the “M271 cam chain problems” .
The car is likely to need a new cam chain/gears at that mileage .

Cheers W1ghty!

Whilst the car is in for the suspension mount welding it's being checked over for any other problematic rust etc so fingers crossed on that front!

Thanks for the heads up on the cam chain problems. A quick look shows from 2002 (w209) onwards. This one is a 2000, would the same thing apply? It's the 161BHP Auto model

Thankfully had gearbox service 2 years ago including the control board/selector unit (car was dropping out of gear under hard acceleration) - cannot remember the name right now and the car has only done about 3,000 miles since that was done

 

[W1ghty]

Cheers W1ghty!

Whilst the car is in for the suspension mount welding it's being checked over for any other problematic rust etc so fingers crossed on that front!

Thanks for the heads up on the cam chain problems. A quick look shows from 2002 (w209) onwards. This one is a 2000, would the same thing apply? It's the 161BHP Auto model

Thankfully had gearbox service 2 years ago including the control board/selector unit (car was dropping out of gear under hard acceleration) - cannot remember the name right now and the car has only done about 3,000 miles since that was done

Sounds like you are on top of the usual suspects buddy , good job .
I am not sure on the full date range of M271 problems , hopefully one of the experts will chime in .

 

[190]

A 2000 CLK will not have the M271 engine. It uses the M111 engine which was reliable and had been in production for 8 years at that point.

 

[ht23]

A 2000 CLK will not have the M271 engine. It uses the M111 engine which was reliable and had been in production for 8 years at that point.

That's great to hear! Anything I need to keep an eye out for?

 

[rich1068]

I'm certainly no expert having only got my W209 in May but rust seems to be what kills these cars and it sounds like you're addressing that. You don't see many W208s without frilly arches.

 

[ht23]

I'm certainly no expert having only got my W209 in May but rust seems to be what kills these cars and it sounds like you're addressing that. You don't see many W208s without frilly arches.

Good to know. Hoping to get the arches and patches sorted as soon as possible!

 

[Ted]

Biggest problem will be rust.
Make sure you clean and lubricate the boot lock so that you can open it with the key (it gets clagged up over time. The battery is in the boot and one day you will definitely need to open the boot with the key. That’s the day you wish you had cleaned and lubricated it

 

[Manoerwar]

Great that you are trying to keep the flame alive. I have a 2005 200 Compressor currently on Miles124K+ and from the VIN build sheet it appears I have the R4-GASOLINE ENGINE M271, fitted. First I have heard of any timing chain problems, got me thinking about a preventative maintenace change, sounds expensive, anyone had this done recently.

Add my bit of advice as well, make sure you clean the rear wheel arch shutes regularly as mud definately packs in there.

 

[markjay]

Re the 'sticky buttons, be aware that if they are made of rubberised plastic (for a soft touch), then it's the rubber itself that's deteriorated, and it's not a sticky coat on top of the button. If that happens, then the only option is a new button panel (not to be confused though with hard plastic covered in residue from bring pressed too many times with dirty fingers).

 

[markjay]

Great that you are trying to keep the flame alive. I have a 2005 200 Compressor currently on Miles124K+ and from the VIN build sheet it appears I have the R4-GASOLINE ENGINE M271, fitted. First I have heard of any timing chain problems, got me thinking about a preventative maintenace change, sounds expensive, anyone had this done recently.

Add my bit of advice as well, make sure you clean the rear wheel arch shutes regularly as mud definately packs in there.

You'll need to replace both camshaft sprocket wheels (unless they're good, but chances are that the teeth will be worn), the hydraulic tensioner, the chain guide, and obviously the chain itself. Use only genuine MB chain, and make sure that the new sprockets are modified/hardened.

And also replace both camshaft position sensors (hall sensors) if they are showing any signs of leak. Personally I'd replace the thermostat as well, it's a very cheap Wahler unit.

 

[ht23]

Biggest problem will be rust.
Make sure you clean and lubricate the boot lock so that you can open it with the key (it gets clagged up over time. The battery is in the boot and one day you will definitely need to open the boot with the key. That’s the day you wish you had cleaned and lubricated it

Oh dude - the battery in the boot really got me when the battery died and it wouldn't even open with a key. Got there in the end. Thanks for the top on lubricating the lock - will do as soon as i get the car back

Great that you are trying to keep the flame alive. I have a 2005 200 Compressor currently on Miles124K+ and from the VIN build sheet it appears I have the R4-GASOLINE ENGINE M271, fitted. First I have heard of any timing chain problems, got me thinking about a preventative maintenace change, sounds expensive, anyone had this done recently.

Add my bit of advice as well, make sure you clean the rear wheel arch shutes regularly as mud definately packs in there.

Ah good shout on the rear arche shutes, thank you!

Re the 'sticky buttons, be aware that if they are made of rubberised plastic (for a soft touch), then it's the rubber itself that's deteriorated, and it's not a sticky coat on top of the button. If that happens, then the only option is a new button panel (not to be confused though with hard plastic covered in residue from bring pressed too many times with dirty fingers).

Yep it's the soft touch stuff I beleive. Horrible. I imagine new buttons will be tricky to find but shall go hunting

 

[markjay]

Oh dude - the battery in the boot really got me when the battery died and it wouldn't even open with a key. Got there in the end. Thanks for the top on lubricating the lock - will do as soon as i get the car back



Ah good shout on the rear arche shutes, thank you!



Yep it's the soft touch stuff I beleive. Horrible. I imagine new buttons will be tricky to find but shall go hunting

Trying to remove the stickiness with solvent will only make things worse... see if you can find chrome covers on eBay.

 

[ht23]

Trying to remove the stickiness with solvent will only make things worse... see if you can find chrome covers on eBay.

Good to know. Was tempted to find a way to just strip them back to bare plastic.

 

[ht23]

Found out car will be ready end of next week. Can’t wait to pick it up

 

[DSM10000]

You'll need to replace both camshaft sprocket wheels (unless they're good, but chances are that the teeth will be worn), the hydraulic tensioner, the chain guide, and obviously the chain itself. Use only genuine MB chain, and make sure that the new sprockets are modified/hardened.

And also replace both camshaft position sensors (hall sensors) if they are showing any signs of leak. Personally I'd replace the thermostat as well, it's a very cheap Wahler unit.

It isn't the M271 engine in this iteration of the CLK. Does this apply to earlier engine designs?

 

[markjay]

It isn't the M271 engine in this iteration of the CLK. Does this apply to earlier engine designs?

This is a 'common issue' only on the M271 engine (though obviously any engine can develop a leak from a camshaft position sensor).

What engine would a 2006 CLK200 Kompressor have other than the M271? I am pretty sure that the M111 would have been obsolete by then.

 

[DSM10000]

This is a 'common issue' only on the M271 engine (though obviously any engine can develop a leak from a camshaft position sensor).

What engine would a 2006 CLK200 Kompressor have other than the M271? I am pretty sure that the M111 would have been obsolete by then.

See Post #3.

The OP stated that the car was a year 2000 model and, also in the original thread title ?

 

[markjay]

See Post #3.

The OP stated that the car was a year 2000 model and, also in the original thread title ?

Ah missed that... A trip to the opthalmologist is in order.....