Lubricating wiper mechanism on my 124
- Thread starter MissyD
- Start date
Bellow
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Easiest by far will be from an aerosol. I think Comma do a can of white grease that is easily available through Halfords and the likes.
(Don't get hung up on the 'lithium' bit. 99.99% of greases are lithium based. It's only worth mentioning the base when it isn't lithium).
(Don't get hung up on the 'lithium' bit. 99.99% of greases are lithium based. It's only worth mentioning the base when it isn't lithium).
R129mine
Active Member
This is what I use on a r129 
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2013
- Messages
- 6,166
- Location
- Kidderminster Worcestershire UK
- Car
- Mercedes W124 260E M103
It can be done MissyD but it will be a bit of a game to remove all the inner shield and bits and bobs to get to it . Some wipers had a clam shell made of plasic material that you can pull off to get a spray grease in to and then replace it . .But if its like mine is a fixed item and the whole unit as to be removed from the car to do it right .Removal is best,,, that way you can lub all the joints and bearing parts . I would visit Youtube its all on there how to go about it .
OP
OP
Sorry, I forgot to update the thread...
I managed to lubricate the mechanism, I'd forgotten just how fiddly it was but once you get the hang of it, its easy. It's knowing the correct amount of pressure you need to use to remove the turtle cover first.
The fuse keeps blowing tho so think it could be the motor, it's gonna be heading down to Gareth (@Jobsworth) soon so he can have a proper look. I'll let you know how she gets on, if I don't forget
I used this to lubricate it
I managed to lubricate the mechanism, I'd forgotten just how fiddly it was but once you get the hang of it, its easy. It's knowing the correct amount of pressure you need to use to remove the turtle cover first.
The fuse keeps blowing tho so think it could be the motor, it's gonna be heading down to Gareth (@Jobsworth) soon so he can have a proper look. I'll let you know how she gets on, if I don't forget
I used this to lubricate it
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2016
- Messages
- 4,469
- Location
- leicestershire
- Car
- R230 SL500 in teal blue, R231 SL500 in black. (Vauxhall insignia diesel now sold) Black Ford Mondeo
I'd take the motor off, strip it and clean and lubricate all moving parts then reassemble. Hopefully that'd do it!
ray_hennig
MB Enthusiast
I replaced my motor with a well used one in 2008. It was still working when I installed a brand new one last year.
Worth trying a used one?
R
Bellow
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
I'd be more inclined to put a multimeter across it and check resistance value is in spec or dead short. If it's still working unlikely to be dead short in the motor. If resistance value is in spec then suggests the motor is having too work too hard (hence blown fuse) and tight mechanism is at fault. A dead short could also be a chafed wire.
For any of this though knowing where to connect the multimeter is required. And for that I'd be asking here and asking also if my suggestions are viable. If viable, it gives an indication of what to expect when you pull the motor - or may save you from having to.
Not being familiar with car in question, I don't know if removing the motor is 5 minute or 5 day job. That obviously, influences the course of action.
For any of this though knowing where to connect the multimeter is required. And for that I'd be asking here and asking also if my suggestions are viable. If viable, it gives an indication of what to expect when you pull the motor - or may save you from having to.
Not being familiar with car in question, I don't know if removing the motor is 5 minute or 5 day job. That obviously, influences the course of action.
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2013
- Messages
- 6,166
- Location
- Kidderminster Worcestershire UK
- Car
- Mercedes W124 260E M103
Missy D You best bet is to watch this done in a video, there are a few on Youtube, step by step removal , and replacment of the mono wiper after its been serviced .
OP
OP
Thanks, yes I had a look at how to do it
OP
OP
Good idea before I start purchasing bits. How easy is this to do? Anyone offering to show me how to do it would be much appreciated
Bellow
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
For checking the motor - presumably checking it at its connector allows direct access to its windings - circumventing electronic control for speed, park, intermittent, etc and that's beyond me. But, there are some forum members who will know about this.Good idea before I start purchasing bits. How easy is this to do? Anyone offering to show me how to do it would be much appreciated
Current in the system should be measurable across the fuse terminals and if the motors power is known (in Watts) then dividing that by 12V should give the expected current draw (in Amps). A dead short will likely blow a fuse in a multimeter - or wreck it.
Is this on the 2005 car? What I've described is appropriate for an old analogue wired car but newer stuff with electronics, SAMs and CANbus is witchcraft to me. If that's what you have - proceed with caution. Maybe better to approach it from the mechanical end ie, remove, strip, clean motor and mechanisms. Did you get all the mechanism adequately greased? Is there a linkage between the motor and the 'oyster' thing?
Bellow
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
1993 should be easier electrically. To kick off with, I'd disconnect the connector at the motor and go straight to checking resistances on the motor side connections between the individual pins and earth (motor body) and see what is found. A wiring diagram for the motor would be of use if you can find one - or even one showing the wires as they enter.
Oyster thing - I though you had the single jumping wiper but I've confused threads. Have you greased every pivot between the motor and the wiper arms including wiper spindle pivots and any other pivots on the operating mechanism where it attaches to the body? Grease isn't easy to apply! Unless you dismantled and applied? - the only realistic method grease from a tub can be applied.... If there's doubt here, consider getting an aerosol of light lubricating oil and apply it everywhere. Greasing options exist thereafter but knowing nothing is seizing up is the important part. Unless you did strip to grease that is....
Bellow
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Ah, I was half right!
I'm assuming the motor is right next to the mechanism and if you are confident (I'm not arguing!) that you have got the whole thing greased then mechanical aspects can probably be disregarded....
.... and move to the electrics.
With a multimeter at the downstream connector for the fuse and with the connector removed from the motor, check the wire isn't earthed (chafed through) as a preliminary check before going to the motor windings. Another check for that would be a new fuse and with the motor disconnected at its connector, switch on and see if the fuse blows or not.
OP
OP
Yeah the motor is next to the mechanism. I've had a look at it and it looks pretty easy to get to, just need to remove a few bits of plastic. Will have a go at the weekend as I will have more time and will let you know how I get on, thanks
A Girl with spanners ...................
............Love it...............
............Love it...............
