• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

MILLERS DIESEL POWER ECO MAX

IMG_0944.jpegIf thats the case then I'd recommend using a fuel additive (or premium fuels) to help prevent the formation of carbon deposits.
How can you tell if it stops carbon build up better than regular fuel that meets British Standards already with additives ?
This is my DPF last time I checked it, I’ve never used additional additives.
 
How can you tell if it stops carbon build up better than regular fuel that meets British Standards already with additives ?
This is my DPF last time I checked it, I’ve never used additional additives.

Personally, I can’t tell. My post is based on Mr Google.

(And I was referring to carbon deposits inside the engine rather than to the DPF)
 
Personally, I can’t tell. My post is based on Mr Google.

(And I was referring to carbon deposits inside the engine rather than to the DPF)
I know, but was posting to show maybe how clean the car is running without any additives.
 
How can you tell if it stops carbon build up better than regular fuel that meets British Standards already with additives ?
This is my DPF last time I checked it, I’ve never used additional additives.

Try miller's winter time , see if it quietens down the rattly 651 . I'm betting it does 👍
 
I know, but was posting to show maybe how clean the car is running without any additives.
Your simply looking at dpf soots and not internals carbon build up.A dpf does a regen to burn off excess soots ,the engine internals can't do that , that's where additives help, cleaner burn = less soot . Did you ever see the engine internals that was ran on pure veg oil ??
 
Last edited:
Your simply looking at dpf soots and not internals carbon build up.A dpf does a regen to burn off excess soots ,the engine internals can't do that , that's where additives help, cleaner burn = less soot . Did you ever see the engine internals that was ran on pure veg oil ??
But wouldn’t a low soot and ash level show it’s running very clean anyway ?
Try miller's winter time , see if it quietens down the rattly 651 . I'm betting it does 👍
Doubt Millers will quiet down the agricultural tunes of a cold 651.

I’ve just bought some Mannol 9955 Diesel additive just for educational purposes, off on a 200 mile round trip this weekend so expecting good results.
 
What alot of nonsense. 😂😂

Millers guidelines say at least 200 miles to be driven before the mix within the diesel to be completed. You maybe need to use it for a few hundred more miles .


Screenshot_20240828-221325.png
 
But wouldn’t a low soot and ash level show it’s running very clean anyway ?

All that the soot level in the PDF indicates is the efficiency of the regeneration cycle. It's not a measure of the carbon deposits on the piston crowns and valves.
 
I wonder how thrashing a car can clean the internals?
Surely just higher revs does nothing and once the car is up to temperature it can’t get any hotter to sufficiently burn off carbon .
Look in the mirror the first time you take derv close to the redline in months........sometimes you cant see the car behind for a second or two if the car has been babied. Of course this is mainly stuff from the DPF and exhaust.....but having the injectors opening longer and under higher pressure certainly wont do any harm. Its not "thrashing" if the engine is warmed up....engines are designed for constant running anywhere under the redline.

When I was selling cars we used to have an old lady who bought a new golf GTI Mk2 every year just for pottering around in. When it was in for service it was always running like a bag of nails. First thing the fitter would do was take it around the bypass at higher revs. Always ran fine after....and she though our mechanics were miracle workers!!! Even if you want to use additives a few revs will help with the process.

This guy gives a balanced view.....but hes talking petrol motors.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
I wonder how thrashing a car can clean the internals?
A diesel at load will run more EGR, have greater (oil laden) blow by from the crankcase and, be running an AFR closer to stoich which risks incomplete (soot laden) combustion. None of this is conducive to a clean engine.
 
No..... :)


An EGR valve is open the most when a vehicle is idling or moving at a low speed. The valve gradually opens to allow more gas into the combustion chamber because less oxygen is needed at lower speeds. At idle, the valve can be up to 90% open.


The EGR valve closes when the vehicle accelerates and more torque is needed. This ensures that the cylinder receives enough oxygen.
 
All that the soot level in the PDF indicates is the efficiency of the regeneration cycle. It's not a measure of the carbon deposits on the piston crowns and valves.
But the low ash levels mean the soot produced, and then burnt, was very little so this engine is running clean ?
There will always be carbon on valves and crowns as your oil will always be black 20 miles after an oil change.
I still think £3 worth of additive every tankfull will stop that.
 
But the low ash levels mean the soot produced, and then burnt, was very little so this engine is running clean ?
There will always be carbon on valves and crowns as your oil will always be black 20 miles after an oil change.
I still think £3 worth of additive every tankfull will stop that.
What is the upper limit before it's burnt off . Then ask how clean it was .
 
But the low ash levels mean the soot produced, and then burnt, was very little so this engine is running clean ?
There will always be carbon on valves and crowns as your oil will always be black 20 miles after an oil change.
I still think £3 worth of additive every tankfull will stop that.

My oil isn't black , even a year later


20240524_163200.jpg
 
FWIW, carbon on the piston crown and combustion chamber of a diesel is no bad thing. No pre-ignition risk with CI (the converse of SI) and the carbon forms an insulating layer bring operation closer to adiabatic to the benefit of efficiency.

Re burning carbon to ash. All the old 2-stroke tuning books advocate looking for ash on the underside of the piston. The reason for this is that by the time the piston is hot enough to burn carbon to ash it is very close to its thermal limit beyond which the crown will collapse. The chances of reaching such temperatures in an engine running excess air is slim. The largest part of the diesel's fuel efficiency comes from the lower (overall) temps afforded by high AFRs.
 
FWIW, carbon on the piston crown and combustion chamber of a diesel is no bad thing. No pre-ignition risk with CI (the converse of SI) and the carbon forms an insulating layer bring operation closer to adiabatic to the benefit of efficiency.

Well, this is certainly an unorthodox view........

This is the first entry on Google search (plenty more below it...):


"Carbon build-up is natural in any combustion engine – diesel or petrol. But, over time, this sooty material can thicken and put your engine at risk, causing that infamous dark smoke diesel engines are known to produce."
...
"Over time, this carbon build-up can cause all sorts of problems.... If left untreated, carbon build-up can eventually lead to engine failure."

As I pointed out before, I am not a qualified mechanic, I just go with what Mr Google says.
 
Well, this is certainly an unorthodox view........

This is the first entry on Google search (plenty more below it...):


"Carbon build-up is natural in any combustion engine – diesel or petrol. But, over time, this sooty material can thicken and put your engine at risk, causing that infamous dark smoke diesel engines are known to produce."
...
"Over time, this carbon build-up can cause all sorts of problems.... If left untreated, carbon build-up can eventually lead to engine failure."

As I pointed out before, I am not a qualified mechanic, I just go with what Mr Google says.

Isn't this why companies do engine carbon cleans. ??
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom