ML 270 2003 RHD brake pipe from master cylinder

[cpfbma]

Good day all,
I am in need some expert brake pipe advice on how to fix a broken brake pipe on ML270 2003 RHD

Pipe 11 (diag below)has corroded through where it meets the union with 14.
I am reasonably confident i can split the union without damaging 14 however I cant seem to find the part number or any reference to the replacement part.
Plan b is to make it from a kit.
So I have 2 questions, looking for your kind support :
1) any ideas on the part number for 11 and where i can buy it from.
2) if making it myself i think this is kit ( link and image) has the right size pipe and connections. (noting the lower mail union is v v corroded.)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trintion-Repair-Copper-Cutter-Bender/dp/B08NX35LHL/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?crid=3H7DXIONUUQF9&keywords=brake%2Bline%2Brepair%2Bkit%2Bm12&qid=1705415254&quartzVehicle=3625-11354&replacementKeywords=brake%2Bline%2Brepair%2Bkit&sprefix=brake%2Bline%2Brepair%2Bkit%2Bm12%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-7-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

Any other tips guidance greatfully received
I am based near Winchester and local garages are saying 3 weeks minium to book me in to get it done, indicating they are not that interested.
thanks in advance

 

[Bellow]

Amazon is a bit vague re pipe material. I bought 1/4'' ''copper'' pipe from them and it was copper coated steel. Which is tough as hell to work with and broke the flaring tool (same one as in that kit). Anything less than steel fittings with steel pipe won't allow sufficient tightening to eliminate leaks.
Hard to tell if the fittings are appropriate for what you need. They always look like they are - until offered up. Purists won't like it but I re-use fittings. Unless corroded beyond serviceable then the sourcing fun begins. If you want a new fitting on pipe # 14 it will have to be re-flared in situ (unless you elect to remove it - and disturb another union....) and it will be steel...
Pipe cutting tool helps enormously and by the looks, you have a tight bend at the MC so bending tool probably a good idea.

In summary, that kit will be fine with the provisos that the pipe isn't copper coated steel. If it is and you have to re-flare the existing steel line, the flaring tool may not be up to it (it wasn't with 1/4'', maybe OK with 3/16'' ) but its own description is 'not for steel'. And the fittings are useable. Maybe maybe not but that is fairly easily remedied once you have them in you hand and can measure them. Ebay is awash with them.

If you are less than 100% confident that the Amazon pipe isn't copper coated steel, consider buying what you need separately. Saville branded pipe is steel-free and suitable.
Finally, don't be surprised if pipe #14 needs replacing. If the union is as corroded as you say the pipe will likely tear. If it is fresh enough further back you can re-flare on a healthy part. Do this before pipe # 11 as it will have to be longer to compensate for missing material.
Good luck!

 

[cpfbma]

Amazon is a bit vague re pipe material. I bought 1/4'' ''copper'' pipe from them and it was copper coated steel. Which is tough as hell to work with and broke the flaring tool (same one as in that kit). Anything less than steel fittings with steel pipe won't allow sufficient tightening to eliminate leaks.
Hard to tell if the fittings are appropriate for what you need. They always look like they are - until offered up. Purists won't like it but I re-use fittings. Unless corroded beyond serviceable then the sourcing fun begins. If you want a new fitting on pipe # 14 it will have to be re-flared in situ (unless you elect to remove it - and disturb another union....) and it will be steel...
Pipe cutting tool helps enormously and by the looks, you have a tight bend at the MC so bending tool probably a good idea.

In summary, that kit will be fine with the provisos that the pipe isn't copper coated steel. If it is and you have to re-flare the existing steel line, the flaring tool may not be up to it (it wasn't with 1/4'', maybe OK with 3/16'' ) but its own description is 'not for steel'. And the fittings are useable. Maybe maybe not but that is fairly easily remedied once you have them in you hand and can measure them. Ebay is awash with them.

If you are less than 100% confident that the Amazon pipe isn't copper coated steel, consider buying what you need separately. Saville branded pipe is steel-free and suitable.
Finally, don't be surprised if pipe #14 needs replacing. If the union is as corroded as you say the pipe will likely tear. If it is fresh enough further back you can re-flare on a healthy part. Do this before pipe # 11 as it will have to be longer to compensate for missing material.
Good luck!

thanks v much, great advice. Really helpful thank you. Didnt think it would be as easy as 35 quid next day delivery from Amazon. things rarely are...... . I will update this thread with the final solutions.

 

[cpfbma]

Update
I am getting a custom pipe made (will give the company a shout out when i confirm it all works), trying to establish and verify the specification of the fittings at each end. we think we know but any information/advice gratefully recieved.
Also have the part number - A163 420 2926
thanks

 

[ALFAitalia]

Much better Idea......and don't ever use copper for brake pipes....use the proper stuff....like Kunifer....copper nickel alloy. Copper gets work hardened with movement and will eventually fracture....its illegal to use it for brakes in many countries....but not this one for some reason! I would not knowingly drive a car with any pure copper brake pipes.

 

[Bellow]

Update
I am getting a custom pipe made (will give the company a shout out when i confirm it all works), trying to establish and verify the specification of the fittings at each end. we think we know but any information/advice gratefully recieved.
Also have the part number - A163 420 2926
thanks

That gives you the upper pipe #11, but what's the plan for pipe #14 tearing when you disturb its union?
You could leave the downstream part of the fitting on pipe #14 and a new part on the new pipe #11. That assumes said part is re-usable. If doing this, take great care not to let that part turn as you fit the new pipe to it. If it is as corroded as you say it will likely be seized to the pipe and twist it if turned. That destroys the pipe and you add another pipe to be replaced to the list. And there's the other end of it to deal with too.

 

[cpfbma]

That gives you the upper pipe #11, but what's the plan for pipe #14 tearing when you disturb its union?
You could leave the downstream part of the fitting on pipe #14 and a new part on the new pipe #11. That assumes said part is re-usable. If doing this, take great care not to let that part turn as you fit the new pipe to it. If it is as corroded as you say it will likely be seized to the pipe and twist it if turned. That destroys the pipe and you add another pipe to be replaced to the list. And there's the other end of it to deal with too.

thanks- yes splitting the union is todays job .wish me luck. plan b will be to replace pipe 14 as well.

 

[cpfbma]

UPDATE - as promised. So I found genuine pipe online (9.99). The corroded union would not turn, so removed pipe 14 from the car , heated and it split. inserted new pipe and fed backinto the car and connected to abs pump and now all working. thanks for all comments and to the power of ebay finding someone who had a geniune part tucked way for sale.