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MOT Failure - Price seems high??

John20

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2023
Messages
74
Location
UK
Car
C CLASS (C200) KOMPRESSOR Saloon 2008
Hi guys,

I've had an MOT done and its failed on:

  • Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt rear (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
  • Offside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt rear (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
  • Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i)

I'm pretty certain the garage just didn't put the handbrake on properly (which I've done too) because I've had this car on steeeeep hills and never found it doesn't hold the car... but I could be wrong! Assuming it does need work I've been quoted £550 for the above work, does that seem reasonable? any advice appreciated thanks
 
If the ball joints are still good (no play or noise) just replace the rubber boots...exactly what I did BEFORE the last MOT. Cost?..... about £2 OMon ebay and an hour of my time. I bet they are replacing the whole arms.
 
If the ball joints are still good (no play or noise) just replace the rubber boots...exactly what I did BEFORE the last MOT. Cost?..... about £2 OMon ebay and an hour of my time. I bet they are replacing the whole arms.

Is there a way to check/test if the joints are okay? my knowledge of cars is not great, I can say I've not felt/noticed anything odd with the car, no noises, no clunking or other things etc. How easy is it to replace just the boot? thanks
 
Check for play/movement with a pry bar before you disconnect it (you will probably need a balljoint splitter but i often get them free with a knock from a lump hammer. ) Once free check them for free , but not lose, movement both side to side and rotationally. No noise, roughness or play and you are good to go. Otherwise it's new arms or ball joint if it's a separate piece like on my A Class. Changing the rubbers is easy....getting the spring rings on that hold them in place can be a bit fiddly.
 
The failures were for the boots not excessive play / wear in the joints so if the boots can be replaced then it seems they should do the trick , the parking brake should be fine once adjusted.

K
 
Check for play/movement with a pry bar before you disconnect it (you will probably need a balljoint splitter but i often get them free with a knock from a lump hammer. ) Once free check them for free , but not lose, movement both side to side and rotationally. No noise, roughness or play and you are good to go. Otherwise it's new arms or ball joint if it's a separate piece like on my A Class. Changing the rubbers is easy....getting the spring rings on that hold them in place can be a bit fiddly.

The failures were for the boots not excessive play / wear in the joints so if the boots can be replaced then it seems they should do the trick , the parking brake should be fine once adjusted.

K


Thanks guys. Having read what you've advised, that would make sense to me. The boot may be split but no actual damage (yet) and so replacing the boot could solve it. My next problem is whether I can actually do this or not! I don't even have a jack at this point lol. Well besides the mercedes one in the boot. Is it a simple "jack up the car", "unbolt a few bolts", "separate the arm from the top part?", "remove boot and put new boot in", done ?
 
Without a trolley jack and axle stands and proper tools, don't even start the job.
Yeah, was just looking at those bits. I have some tools, I think the only parts I'm missing is the jack stands and trolley jack. I'm very much the sorta person that does not like the idea of being under a car.. no matter how safe. So for that specific reason, I'm thinking maybe this for the mechanics. But I've spoken to two so far and they both say the whole arm has to be replaced as they don't do just boots it's all one unit. So if I wanna do the boot, it seems like a DIY only job. Annoyingly... not sure what to do! Hmm.
 
Make sure you can actually get the boots first before you gung-ho with the spanners and research the job as it may not be as simple as you think doing the job with the arm still in the car.

Is there anything else attached to the arm that may cause issues if it needs to be removed ?

Can the balljoints be removed from the arm and new ones pressed in , that way you get new joints + boots.

FWIW working on 16 year old suspension components is not for the novice so beware as you may need a balljoint splitter , torque wrench ant Thors hammer to free off various bits + bobs.

The £550 sounds reasonable for a couple of hours work @ £100+ p/h and supplying the parts @ £200 ish , providing they are using decent replacement components.

K
 
Getting the spring clips back on the boots Is a bitch of a job. Good luck for even trying . Maybe ask the garage for a price just to replace the boots and not whole arms and ball joints.
 
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Is there a way to check/test if the joints are okay? my knowledge of cars is not great, I can say I've not felt/noticed anything odd with the car, no noises, no clunking or other things etc. How easy is it to replace just the boot? thanks
You won't be able to do it. 👍
 
If the ball joints are still good (no play or noise) just replace the rubber boots...exactly what I did BEFORE the last MOT. Cost?..... about £2 OMon ebay and an hour of my time. I bet they are replacing the whole arms.
If the boot has split it is likely that there has been an ingress of dirt that will increase the wear rate of the joint. At the other end of the arm is a bush. These are often split and worn so replacing just boot is often inefficient. One thing that is vital. Fit a good quality part. TRW or Lemforder are the best.
 
From what you have said, you don't appear to be mechanically minded. Either get a friend who knows about cars or your local garage to sort it. Unfortunately cars of today are pretty complicated under the bonnet & people of my era (old) started off learning with an easy service, points, plugs, filters, ignition then progressed to brakes, suspension, exhaust etc, etc. We could always get a car started, now, not so, too many electronic modules talking to each other. When I got interested in cars, I bought a new spanner every week then other bits & bobs to build up my tool kit Also a godsend was a Haynes manual for your specific car which basically showed every step in fixing your problem. Probably don't exist any more. Good luck anyway, get a bit of help & try it.
 

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