Mot

[Dieselman]

Took the car for it's annual test and it failed!!!!!!!!

Lower front n/s supension balljoint had too much play. Fitted new joints to both sides and had a retest All Ok now.

The only way to test the joints is to jack the car up and then lift the wheel assembly and look for vertical movement. It was only about 1.5 mm and the re-tester thought it would have been ok...but.

To change the joint you only need two tools once the wheel is off. A 22mm spanner or socket and a bloody big hammer.

You can't get either a fork or screw type ball joint seperator in the space so the hammer is essential. Undo the nut and drive the joint out of the hub carrier, then unbolt it from the wishbone and voilla.

You will pay about £100 per side at the dealer for this job. It takes about 20 mins.

The car is nearly due for a service so hadn't had the joints checked for some time.

As an aside the smoke readings were nice and low. 3 is the pass limit. First session..rev1 = 2.74, just cleaning out the tubes, rev 2= 0.43, rev3 = 0.39, rev 4 = 0.38. average 0.40.

re-test only one rev = 1.25.

 

[Ian B Walker]

Danger, Danger, Warning, Warning. DO NOT TRY THIS ON A W124. You will end up with a bloody big bill, spring launched into stratosphere, possibly taking your arm with it and no front wing.

 

[Dieselman]

How is that Ian?
The shock absorber and anti roll bar hold the lower wishbone in position and also as the vehicle is jacked up the spring is hardly under tension and is already at the limit of it's travel.
The only part to be moved is the hub carrier which then hangs off the upper wishbone and steering joint.

 

[Ian B Walker]

To change the swivel on the bottom of a strut on a 124 requires the spring being removed. Even if the lower wishbone is relaxed the spring is still under tension, when the lower wishbone is swivelled downwards the spring will come out if there is no retention to the spring. They are quite long springs. Or are we talking totally different suspention setups here. I will bow to your superior knowledge on this one if I am wrong.

No intention to diss your post and absolutly no intention of offending you.

 

[GrahamC230K]

Took the car for it's annual test and it failed!!!!!!!!

Lower front n/s supension balljoint had too much play. Fitted new joints to both sides and had a retest All Ok now.

Snap. Had mine the other week, failed on exact same. Got mine done for a price I couldn't grumble at all - I had to considering it had to be done ASAP as I needed Road Tax the following day! Got 6 months which if I still have the car I will follow with 12 months tax, so next MOT I don't have the same pressure.

 

[Dieselman]

To change the swivel on the bottom of a strut on a 124 requires the spring being removed. Even if the lower wishbone is relaxed the spring is still under tension, when the lower wishbone is swivelled downwards the spring will come out if there is no retention to the spring. They are quite long springs. Or are we talking totally different suspention setups here. I will bow to your superior knowledge on this one if I am wrong.

No intention to diss your post and absolutly no intention of offending you.

I was not offended but was concerned that other readers may be alarmed if doing this job.

AFAIK the suspension setups are the same except the 124 uses steering box and arms and the 210 uses a steering rack.

The shock absorber will hold the arm, otherwise the spring would come out if you jack the wheel up.

 

[Dieselman]

Got 6 months which if I still have the car I will follow with 12 months tax, so next MOT I don't have the same pressure.

I always take my cars in in the month preceeding the test date so that I have time to fix it if required.

Having said that this is the first fail on our daily cars in fifteen years.

 

[GrahamC230K]

I always take my cars in in the month preceeding the test date so that I have time to fix it if required.

Having said that this is the first fail on our daily cars in fifteen years.

I normally would allow more time too, but I had lost my MOT certificate. Unlike me, but lost it was.

I was annoyed it failed, but not all together surprised as it's wear and tear on steering, suspension, bushes etc as to why I am going through all sorts of considerations to change car.

85K miles (not just up and down a motorway) may be nothing as far as body and engine, but all the buts that go up and down and round and round wear out.

 

[Dieselman]

Graham

If this is really why you're thinking of changing then forget it. The joints and bushes do wear but are dead cheap, so replace them all if necessary. They're also easy to fit if you feel like a spot of Diy.

You could always go for stiffer bushes if you want a sportier setup.

Depreciation will take care of the cost of the bushes within a month even at dealer prices.