New Member here with a problem

[PaulMason]

Hiya
Thanks for your advice, my issue does sound similar,
Like just back from a run there, car drove terribly, then without warning goes well, steering very light when it's feels under powered, then it goes stiffer and i get plenty of power,
For about 10 miles it would pull, then it picks up and goes well.
I pulled in after it was going well just to see what would happen if I switched it off,
As soon as I restarted and drove it drove terrible again,
Also it seemed to help when I turned eco off,, not sure if that's anything,,,
Injectors all nice and dry,

That sounds like the opposite to mine, mine would start and go well and then go into limp. Yours sounds like it's starting badly and then clearing? It's as if something is starting to work better after a period of time? How does it compare to temperature - does it get better when the temp reaches normal?

 

[Eddiemc11]

That sounds like the opposite to mine, mine would start and go well and then go into limp. Yours sounds like it's starting badly and then clearing? It's as if something is starting to work better after a period of time? How does it compare to temperature - does it get better when the temp reaches normal?

So far it doesn't seem to matter if it's cold or warmed.
What has me confused is why on the 1st test it drove fine,
I drive it home that evening 25miles. Fine.
Back to work. 25miles. Fine.
Done the regen.
Which was successful according to the scanner. And drove fine on that drive too.
Car sat for a week.
Albeit I drive it in to do the spring nsf,
And then on the drive home 25miles. It drove terrible.
And has been getting worse,,

 

[Eddiemc11]

So far it doesn't seem to matter if it's cold or warmed.
What has me confused is why on the 1st test it drove fine,
I drive it home that evening 25miles. Fine.
Back to work. 25miles. Fine.
Done the regen.
Which was successful according to the scanner. And drove fine on that drive too.
Car sat for a week.
Albeit I drive it in to do the spring nsf,
And then on the drive home 25miles. It drove terrible.
And has been getting worse,,

And starting the car is grand, it idles smooth at @800.
Coil light goes off reasonably quickly and runs sweet,
Only when i put load on or even just try to drive easy, it just starts to kick about.

 

[Eddiemc11]

And starting the car is grand, it idles smooth at @800.
Coil light goes off reasonably quickly and runs sweet,
Only when i put load on or even just try to drive easy, it just starts to kick about.

 

[PaulMason]

Don't wish to teach granny how to suck eggs, but if it's under load, is it as simple as something like an old fuel filter or dirty lines? May be worth a precautionary filter and a diesel fuel flush, relatively inexpensive to rule something out. Have you reset the throttle potentiometer (I can't quite remember it but you can reset the pedal/tps).

 

[PaulMason]

On my scanner I can do an actuation test of the turbo actuator and also the EGR. That may be worth a check if you can. I did pull my EGR off and give it a bloody good clean and only cost me a few hours and a new O ring so that too man be worth a try. I'm not familiar with the 220 CDi engine so I could well be wrong and just saying what I've done to mine.

 

[PaulMason]

All about cost at this stage.
Im a new owner to mercedes and the parts list is getting bigger,
Ive not even done 200 Miles in it yet and its already stressing me out lol

This will pass and then you'll be mega pleased with your new car. Patience, perseverance and logic will get you through. I've now got 3, all were "cheap", all had issues (including the second of mine being recovered by the RAC a grand total of 76 miles after purchase with a failed alternator and goosed second battery!). It's tricky to be optimistic, but forums like this and Facebook and YouTube will have your answers for defo. I've learned more about Merc OM642 engines on here and YouTube than I ever thought possible.

 

[Eddiemc11]

On my scanner I can do an actuation test of the turbo actuator and also the EGR. That may be worth a check if you can. I did pull my EGR off and give it a bloody good clean and only cost me a few hours and a new O ring so that too man be worth a try. I'm not familiar with the 220 CDi engine so I could well be wrong and just saying what I've done to mine.

Thanks paul
No i havnt reset anything apart for clearing the dpf fault,
And according to the scan it hasn't come back or any others,
Im only able to get a quick run on the scanner as I don't have one of my own.
I would like it to be that turbo/intercooler pipe but I'm never so lucky.
It drives like it has a dying maf, that would have been my 1st old school guess

 

[Eddiemc11]

This will pass and then you'll be mega pleased with your new car. Patience, perseverance and logic will get you through. I've now got 3, all were "cheap", all had issues (including the second of mine being recovered by the RAC a grand total of 76 miles after purchase with a failed alternator and goosed second battery!). It's tricky to be optimistic, but forums like this and Facebook and YouTube will have your answers for defo. I've learned more about Merc OM642 engines on here and YouTube than I ever thought possible.

Thanks mate I hope your right.. Ive driven mgr for years, with the good old dont hate me m47r engine.
Forums had helped me drive my last zt for 8 years,
Always loved the mercs too though, and i did Pick up a nice one, so happy with that, just gotta fix it now

 

[PaulMason]

An icarsoft v3 with the MB package on it is definitely a good investment in the longer term, or access to a friend's. Any local groups on Facebook for C classes or other Merc models as someone local may have one? I've bought a few second hand parts for mine and all have been fine so you may get a hose on eBay and that way it's either a cheaper fix or a cheaper way to rule something out

 

[Eddiemc11]

An icarsoft v3 with the MB package on it is definitely a good investment in the longer term, or access to a friend's. Any local groups on Facebook for C classes or other Merc models as someone local may have one? I've bought a few second hand parts for mine and all have been fine so you may get a hose on eBay and that way it's either a cheaper fix or a cheaper way to rule something out

Thats exactly it Paul, if i got a used hose and it cured the issue it certainly when possible buy the genuine new part.
And if i have it as long as the other car id certainly look at the icarsoft, they do look like thyre a good job

 

[Eddiemc11]

Would this be an issue?
I'm getting no injector correction quantity data from cylinder 4,
1 2 3 seem to give ok readings.

 

[Eddiemc11]

New hose fitted, still no difference, new fuel filter fitted still no difference

 

[Eddiemc11]

I suspect the fault is being caused by low vacuum on the turbo actuator.
It's not always low, just on start up and normal run.
If i dump the clutch and cycle the key it goes away and boost is restored and drives normally,
There does not seem to be any air leaks.
A suggestion is one of the pressure solenoid valves..
Has anyone had similar faults?

 

[Eddiemc11]

Problem resolved

 

[DSM10000]

Problem resolved

How?

 

[Eddiemc11]

How?

Abs ring all along, should have trusted myself and changed it sooner..
Went on a goose chase instead, although now I know the intake is all good

 

[Deleted member 166119]

Check turbo intake pipe for splits or tears, this is common. If any hoses look tired, as in your photo, buy some wide aluminum tape from B&Q etc and wrap around the hose. If this cures the fault, you now know where the fault lies.