OM642, Crank, No Start

[Davsha]

Greetings,
I previously posted about a rod knock, on this engine.
Finally, I got around to changing the #3 rod bearing, with engine in vehicle.
I accessed thru the lower oil pan & broke away enough of the plastic oil baffle to have clear access to #3 & #6 cyls.

The bearing for #3 was COMPLETELY missing. Hopefully that alone, accounts for all the metal shavings & copper powder
in the oil pan. I changed the oil 2 x, after turning her over & cleaned what was possible. Also torqued down on #6
which had light play. The upper & lower shells are still intact .
Did not use plastgage bc i expect that nothing is true& there's nothing I can do from underneath.
Surprisingly, I found no gouging on anything visible & no sign of oil starvation.
Which leads me believe that perhaps a bad injector on #3 could have overstressed this cyl?
I did have a stored code at 1 point. No longer have the code #.

My current dilemna is that I'm trying to start her to see if the knocking improved at all.
But same pattern everytime.
Cranks over weakly at 80 RPM & cuts off after exactly 5 secs.
Tried cycling the fuel pump with key. Did not yet try bleeding as I'm not sure it'll help.
It DID run dry of diesel at 1 point according to my code reader, but now has 2 gallons.

As always, any insight is welcome.
Sara

 

[ALFAitalia]

I think that minimum crank speed to start an OM642 is 200 rpm....so 80 is a long way off. Flat battery?
No offence...but by what you have said about the repair I'd be amazed if it doesn't still rattle/knock.

"Also torqued down on #6 which had light play".....hmm.

 

[Trickythemerc]

I would be more than amazed, No 3 shells missing

 

[FiveAlive]

If you watch pretty much any of videos on the "I Do Cars" channel on YouTube you'll see that a disintegrated bearing usually trashes the inside of the engine. I expect that any time and expense that you're throwing at the engine now is a waste of time. As for it now failing to turn over fast enough to start, the new/tightened bearings are probably too tight for it to turn over freely enough.

 

[Davsha]

Battery fully charged. Change fuel filter, filled with diesel purge .
What puzzles me is that it ALWAYS cuts out after precisely 5 sec of weak cranking.
Not 3 sec, not 7 sec.
Is the ECU doing that by design to prevent flooding bc it does not detect a proper start?
There's a nice stream of diesel at the filter inlet. I've not gone to the injectors yet.

I'm not looking for opnions as to whether this engine will survive over the long haul.
I'm already aware of the poor odds.
I seek help with the no start issue & welcome any knowledgeable reply.

Thanks in Advance,
Sara

 

[Davsha]

If you watch pretty much any of videos on the "I Do Cars" channel on YouTube you'll see that a disintegrated bearing usually trashes the inside of the engine. I expect that any time and expense that you're throwing at the engine now is a waste of time. As for it now failing to turn over fast enough to start, the new/tightened bearings are probably too tight for it to turn over freely enough.

I don't need to see the videos.
Been inside engines before.
This was a gamble from the start.
Expense , so far, is the cost of a single Glyco rod bearing plus some oil.
I'm not counting my time. I suspect that many folks here do not.

"As for it now failing to turn over fast enough to start, the new/tightened bearings are probably too tight for it to turn over freely enough."

Did the same on the last 2 start attempts BEFORE the bearing change.

Thanks again,
Sara