Greetings to All,
First post but got many useful tips here, over the years.
2012 E350 W212 OM642 110K.
The Bluetech AEM was done in late 2022 at 85K miles. Car was not used till about Mar, 2023.
My existing oil cooler seal seal was repaired at the same time as the AEM. The local dealer offered a sweetheart price, as they had to remove
intake to complete the AEM. Minor unrelated issues in the following moths.
But in April 2024, we drove our very elderly Dad to clinic. All was seemingly normal.
He was inside for 1 hour. Imediately upon startup to return home, there was a loud knock, consistent with RPMs.
We stupidly limped home ( 12 miles) bc he was onboard. We also later left to limp to a trusted indie MB mechanic. Got false diagnosis by 3 dif. mechanics of fuel injectors.
I've built engines in the distant past & this is a classic spun bearing sound, IMO. Plus, an oil change at home revealed steel chips & copper powder in the filter. Car sat for next few months, as I had neither time nor $$ to deal with it.
A few days ago, I dropped the lower oil pan & found more CU powder & ferrous chips. Not as dirty or sludgy as expected.
Tried dropping the plastic baffle but can not from below.
Was hoping to get a view of the crank but already expected that upper pan would need to be removed for that (bit__ of a job).
Thanks for reading this far:
I'll add a few details & finally get to my question.
1) The noise has not worsened, but obviously we've stopped driving the car. Currently has no oil nor lower pan.
2) OBD reader gave a consistent code of "misfire too many times, cyl 3". Clear it & returns at once. So likely that is the spun cyl.
3) Timing chain had the classic 2-3 cold rattle at startup that was never addressed & never got worse (since 2020).
4) Service A & B were done at dealer or at Indie MB till 60K. Then I started doing them myself every 4-5 K. Always used varying brands of 229.52 spec oil.
5) Average trip was less than 15 miles (suburban conditions) & never had as many long highway trips as woulda been ideal for the DPF.
5) Overall condition is very good but not mint.
Questions:
1) There is an AEM warranty for upper ungine & timing chain. NOT for lower half. Is there any logical way to link my current problem to the AEM work?
2) I must get a view of the Crank, bearings, rods to know exactly what I'm dealing with.
Is it worth attempting to remove upper pan in situ or should I just start pulling engine?
2) Any thought on used ( not cheap & high miles ) vs. partial rebuild ?
IDK, if cutting crank or new crank will be needed & expect to need at least 1 rod. Plus this would be the time to finally do the timing chain.
3) I've tried to convince hubby to sell for the current best offer of 2K, but he refuses & still loves her. He's original owner.
He'd prefer I attempt to fix though i'm no longer as well equiped to do so as I once was. Using a pro would make no financial sense.
ISO intelligent replies by experienced persons.
Thanks in Advance
Sara
P.S.: If anyone can help with workshop manual/ instructions for upper pan removal &/or complete engine removal install, please do.
I've not yet found what I'm seeking via search.
First post but got many useful tips here, over the years.
2012 E350 W212 OM642 110K.
The Bluetech AEM was done in late 2022 at 85K miles. Car was not used till about Mar, 2023.
My existing oil cooler seal seal was repaired at the same time as the AEM. The local dealer offered a sweetheart price, as they had to remove
intake to complete the AEM. Minor unrelated issues in the following moths.
But in April 2024, we drove our very elderly Dad to clinic. All was seemingly normal.
He was inside for 1 hour. Imediately upon startup to return home, there was a loud knock, consistent with RPMs.
We stupidly limped home ( 12 miles) bc he was onboard. We also later left to limp to a trusted indie MB mechanic. Got false diagnosis by 3 dif. mechanics of fuel injectors.
I've built engines in the distant past & this is a classic spun bearing sound, IMO. Plus, an oil change at home revealed steel chips & copper powder in the filter. Car sat for next few months, as I had neither time nor $$ to deal with it.
A few days ago, I dropped the lower oil pan & found more CU powder & ferrous chips. Not as dirty or sludgy as expected.
Tried dropping the plastic baffle but can not from below.
Was hoping to get a view of the crank but already expected that upper pan would need to be removed for that (bit__ of a job).
Thanks for reading this far:
I'll add a few details & finally get to my question.
1) The noise has not worsened, but obviously we've stopped driving the car. Currently has no oil nor lower pan.
2) OBD reader gave a consistent code of "misfire too many times, cyl 3". Clear it & returns at once. So likely that is the spun cyl.
3) Timing chain had the classic 2-3 cold rattle at startup that was never addressed & never got worse (since 2020).
4) Service A & B were done at dealer or at Indie MB till 60K. Then I started doing them myself every 4-5 K. Always used varying brands of 229.52 spec oil.
5) Average trip was less than 15 miles (suburban conditions) & never had as many long highway trips as woulda been ideal for the DPF.
5) Overall condition is very good but not mint.
Questions:
1) There is an AEM warranty for upper ungine & timing chain. NOT for lower half. Is there any logical way to link my current problem to the AEM work?
2) I must get a view of the Crank, bearings, rods to know exactly what I'm dealing with.
Is it worth attempting to remove upper pan in situ or should I just start pulling engine?
2) Any thought on used ( not cheap & high miles ) vs. partial rebuild ?
IDK, if cutting crank or new crank will be needed & expect to need at least 1 rod. Plus this would be the time to finally do the timing chain.
3) I've tried to convince hubby to sell for the current best offer of 2K, but he refuses & still loves her. He's original owner.
He'd prefer I attempt to fix though i'm no longer as well equiped to do so as I once was. Using a pro would make no financial sense.
ISO intelligent replies by experienced persons.
Thanks in Advance
Sara
P.S.: If anyone can help with workshop manual/ instructions for upper pan removal &/or complete engine removal install, please do.
I've not yet found what I'm seeking via search.
