Passenger Door lock "machine guns" when locking/unlocking.

[zxrichie]

Hi Guys, got this problem where the door lock on my 2010 ml350 Diesel "machine Guns" and invariably leaves it in the unlock position. After looking into it it seems like a known issue, and a common way to fix it is to put an aftermarket actuator on the metal door card and piggyback it to the door lock button bar.
i did this but when i press the remote the actuator is "machine Gunning" like the original actuator. Now the main reason for trying it this way was 1) save money 2) save time as getting to the original actuator means taking off the metal trim card which includes rivets and a special tool (so i'm told) to replace it.
So what im asking is has any one had this issue, whats causing it , if the aftermarket actuator did the same, is the problem somewhere else. if i do get a merc replacement actuator, whats the chances of it working.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Rich

ps if ive forgotten to tell you any details just ask

 

[Pontoneer]

Hi Guys, got this problem where the door lock on my 2010 ml350 Diesel "machine Guns" and invariably leaves it in the unlock position. After looking into it it seems like a known issue, and a common way to fix it is to put an aftermarket actuator on the metal door card and piggyback it to the door lock button bar.
i did this but when i press the remote the actuator is "machine Gunning" like the original actuator. Now the main reason for trying it this way was 1) save money 2) save time as getting to the original actuator means taking off the metal trim card which includes rivets and a special tool (so i'm told) to replace it.
So what im asking is has any one had this issue, whats causing it , if the aftermarket actuator did the same, is the problem somewhere else. if i do get a merc replacement actuator, whats the chances of it working.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Rich

ps if ive forgotten to tell you any details just ask

Had it on my S203 , bought the new actuator from dealer , along with special steel rivets , removed door card , drilled out rivets , popped new ones in , built back up : all good .

The actuator was something like £100 and an easy fix .

I since learned you can just buy the little spring that fails for a couple of pounds and repair your existing actuator ; a little more work but a big cost saving .

I never bought another car with solenoid locks ; the earlier cars with pneumatic locking are much more reliable ( and silent in operation) .

 

[zxrichie]

Cheers mate, that's interesting , i'll keep it in mind, however after writing this post i went out to try it again, and low and behold, it worked!! the aftermarket actuator went up and down as it should.

Cars! i hate them!!

Rich

 

[mersum1es]

actuator may do that if there is some obstacle on locking knob rod, like door insulation stuff.