Reamer 603 engine?
- Thread starter Joern
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Hi no one seems to have rsponded to your question. I wonder if you are asking for the corrct tool. A reamer can be straight. parallel or tapered with with several cutting edges on it, generally used for enlarging a hole by a tiny amount. You would use parallel reamer when you would come to fit new King Pins and need to ream out the new bushes a tiny bit. The other tool used oni njectors for cleaning up the seats would be an end cutter / seat cutter.
Now I am trying to wonder why you would need a reamer for replacing glow plugs, unless the threads in the head are not good and then you might need a tap to clean them out, or at worst helicoils or inserts.
More information please young man so we might help you.
Steve.
Now I am trying to wonder why you would need a reamer for replacing glow plugs, unless the threads in the head are not good and then you might need a tap to clean them out, or at worst helicoils or inserts.
More information please young man so we might help you.
Steve.
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- 2006 320 CDI Avantgarde . 1997 312d Sprinter
Well, that was an interesting video.
So it is a special tool for removing the carbon on the inside of the head around the glowplug that you are after.
As with most special tools I presume it is going to be expensive and it is @$40. Especially if you are not going to be using it much. I do not know of anone who has one of these and have just looked on ebay, and found nothing. Google shows a Laser tool @ £45-89. a Beru RA003, but no price, and none of the cheaper ones made from aluuum - inum (as he calls it) or just aluminium.
As shown on the video, it is easy to bugger up these tools from misuse, so I can see no one wanting to loan out a tool.
Remains 3 options, bite the bullet and buy a tool or else try to make up your own out of an old glow plug. Just needs the centre drilling out on a lathe, its purpose to protect the threads and then slide a paralll reamer or even a new sharp drill bit which you can hand turn to clear out the carbon. Obviously this will need marking out so you dont go to far. But you can see what his item looks like. I am sure others have used possibly more crude methods to clear out the carbon. Just a drill bit with some tape around the top to protect the threads !
Option 3 would of course be to take it to a Diesel Specialist and get them to do the job. At least they will have the right tools.
Last time I put glow plugs was into the 300td ( OM606 ) and the glow plugs came out easy on a hot engine and went back easy, and I saw no build up of carbon at all (170,000) miles on it.
I hope you get it sorted, and thanks for the video.
Steve.
So it is a special tool for removing the carbon on the inside of the head around the glowplug that you are after.
As with most special tools I presume it is going to be expensive and it is @$40. Especially if you are not going to be using it much. I do not know of anone who has one of these and have just looked on ebay, and found nothing. Google shows a Laser tool @ £45-89. a Beru RA003, but no price, and none of the cheaper ones made from aluuum - inum (as he calls it) or just aluminium.
As shown on the video, it is easy to bugger up these tools from misuse, so I can see no one wanting to loan out a tool.
Remains 3 options, bite the bullet and buy a tool or else try to make up your own out of an old glow plug. Just needs the centre drilling out on a lathe, its purpose to protect the threads and then slide a paralll reamer or even a new sharp drill bit which you can hand turn to clear out the carbon. Obviously this will need marking out so you dont go to far. But you can see what his item looks like. I am sure others have used possibly more crude methods to clear out the carbon. Just a drill bit with some tape around the top to protect the threads !
Option 3 would of course be to take it to a Diesel Specialist and get them to do the job. At least they will have the right tools.
Last time I put glow plugs was into the 300td ( OM606 ) and the glow plugs came out easy on a hot engine and went back easy, and I saw no build up of carbon at all (170,000) miles on it.
I hope you get it sorted, and thanks for the video.
Steve.
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- 2006 320 CDI Avantgarde . 1997 312d Sprinter
Protocol of cylinder numbering is working from the front , generally where the water pump is, to the back, where the flywheel is. So as you suspect no. 1 cylinder is nearest the front. On a V engine just assume all the cylinders are in a straight line, and they would be l,r,l,r,l,r, depending which was no. 1 either to the left or right. On a transverse engine, let us say an old BMC Mini, that numbers 1 to 4 from right to left. Flywheel is on the left, waterpump on the right. An A150 169 mercedes engine has flywheel on the right, so numbers 1 to 4 left to right. In "Ye olde days " manufacturers would often stamp 1,2,3,4, to make life easier for the budding home mechanic. When you retime an engine after taking the distributer out, the rotor arm always points to no.1 cylinder, and HT lead should be sited there. Often at the car auctions, some scumbags would alter the plug leads to create a misfire.
Steve.
Steve.
