Suspected Crankshaft Position Sensor fault turned ugly

[David404]

Its a long and sorry tail, I feel for you.

Its perfectly true that jobs don't always go to plan especially on older cars, but I cant help but feel that the 'original sin' was in the garage not warning you that replacing these sensors can be problematic. If they are a Mercedes specialist surly they should have knowen that placement made it difficult, the sensors seize in/break...

Not very helpful but I sincerely hope you find a resolution to this.

 

[Joderest]

Just to add my two penny's worth.
I in fact feel for both the owner and the garage. The owner, frustrated as repair not done, the garage frustrated that they could not do the repair. I have , in the past, had a similar issue with the ABS sensors in the front of my daughters Aygo, they had failed and were stuck solid, same sort of design, plastic sensor into metal hole. I got round it by drilling the sensor, but not all the way through to avoid anything dropping on to the ABS ring, when drilled to nearly size of hole, tapped it and then screwed a large self tapper into plastic, and pulled it out, drilling the hole made it release. Put new ones back in with copper ease.
I can fully understand that this sensor is in a hard to get to place, but i am sure someone should be able to get it out without removing the gearbox. may be using an easy out !!!!

 

[tommerc49]

Hi,
I assume the CPS is ( in Grobers useful picture ) the plastic lump adjacent to the pallet slat. It looks like it would in normal circumstances, a nightmare to remove. Apart from the threat of it snapping off while trying to remove it, there is an issue with parts falling down inside the bell housing. Both the scenarios needing an engine out job. Not one of Mercedes best designs. Like the clutch release bearing built into the clutch itself. So many of these things are fine while they are working but a nightmare to fix when they break. The part that hurts most is the enormous amount of labour required to fit a relatively cheap part. Complex cars, complex prices.
Have you had a quote from Garage 2 ( he seems a helpful chap) for pulling out the engine to effect a proper repair, which I suppose in hindsight was the way to go at the beginning, but of course we all want the cheap options to begin with before anything that costs ££'s
Garage 1 may not have removed the CPS but at least they tried. We put our cars into a garage for repairs and 99% of the time we get an effective repair, but in your case they could not remove the part to give you the result that you wanted. Sadly time is money and a mechanic still needs paying. You knew their hourly rate before they began the job and at least you haggled something off of their bill.
In the nicest possible way, just put it behind you and move, on its only money, your health is more important.
You say that you do not want to spend £1k, .... but do you yet know what garage 2 will charge you for taking the engine out, he may be your new friend.
I sympathise with your predicament, it is a no win situation, with only pay up or pay up options.

At the moment you do not have much choice, either get your hands dirty and pull the engine out yourself, which is very cheap on labour, or pay garage 2, he may be £££'s cheaper than the mercedes indy or of course there is the Ebay runner or spares option, which in your case is not really an option.
You need the car running and really you can not sell it in the future with a knackered CPS, so then I would get the engine pulled out, get the CPS removed and a new one fitted, get the clutch changed while you are at it, parts are not that expensive, and you would probably recoup the cost when you sell the car and advertise it with a new clutch fitted. Sods law may be that the clutch will fail while you still own the car and back to engine out again.
If you are to run Mercedes cars for any length of time then consider an upgrade to a better code reader, might save you a few bob running to indies for codes to be read properly.
I sincerely hope you can get this sorted with the results that you want.

Steve.

Thanks for your input Steve, appreciated

If I've got my bearings right with this pic, this is the CPS (red arrows pointing to it).
Also attached photo of the new sensor.

Parts falling down inside the bell-housing is why I was reluctant to get it up on the ramps and do it myself (driveshafts removed, then try drilling it out) as if it (or part of it) did fall down inside, I don't have the resources here to be able to drop the engine/box and do the rest myself.

I know it's a real pig of a job dropping the engine/box/subframe on these cars having had a clutch/DMF replaced in my W245 so unless I had a fully-equipped workshop (and better knowledge of Mercedes'), I certainly wouldn't fancy tackling it myself.

I've not had a quote from garage 2 as yet because he's certain it's an electrical issue and not the sensor itself so is currently working on that (diagnostics then test drive to see what comes back). But now garage 1 have physically destroyed the outer part of the sensor (from what I'm told), even if an electrical fault exists and is fixed, I'm still going to be tasked with the sensor being replaced at great cost. Once i hear back about diagnostics I'll likely get a quote from garage 2 to replace the sensor as he seems like a decent bloke and knows what he's doing.

Issue is - if the engine and gearbox are going to be dropped to replace the sensor at a cost of say £1k, I'd be silly not to have the clutch replaced at the same time. I've priced this up and whilst the 3pc LUK kit (includes slave) isn't too expensive at £269, a new DMF with new bolts costs just shy of £600(ouch!), plus there's then going to be further labour costs for replacing those components.

As I say I've spent £1k on this car in the last month alone, so spending a further £1869 on it given it's worth (about £2k) to me would seem a bit pointless.
Whilst I like the car and would likely keep it for the foreseeable if I had all this work done, I'm not too sure it'd be a wise choice as from my experiences so far, everything that seems to go wrong with the W169's and W245's (under the bonnet at least) seems to require an engine and gearbox removal. Starter motor, CPS, Clutch... Wish I'd known this before I started on my Mercedes journey.. live and learn though

Just to add...
Also now wondering why garage 1 (Indy) didn't consider testing the signal from the CPS before even attempting to change it because if garage 2 thought of this (and is adamant that it's more commonly an electrical signal/ wiring issue rather than the sensor itself), I would have thought a Mercedes 'specialist' would have thought of this first.
The loom had not been opened by the Indy so obviously they never checked for a break in the wiring from the sensor. Not sure if they checked the signal from it using other means but they didn't tell me they did, so I can only assume they didn't.

 

[brucemillar]

Dammed if they do. Dammed if they don't..

In a perfect world the first garage would price the job for the worst case scenario to get the job done, but charge for the real time taken. Sadly, in today's marketplace, before their 'worst case scenario price' has left their lips, the customer is hot footing down the road to the next garage in search of a better price. Their is no real answer on this as it takes trust on both sides.

I deal with Wright Tech and have done for years. Why? Simple. I trust the man and his work and I say that without any irony our humility. I met Andy thru this forum and took in my C55 AMG to him for a 100% dead cert Power Steering Pump replacement. Oh Really.... Andy ran a 'short belt' on the ancillaries, called me up and told me it was 100% not the power steering but the AC condensor. He was right. He then found a company that refurb's the condensors(his time on the phone) and had it repaired at less than a third of the price of a replacement.

I have never found the need to question him on his work or his pricing. I note that Olly (Black C55) has the same reputation. This is no hep for you just now. But it is the only way forward.

 

[renault12ts]

I've done a lot of work on cars myself over the years - from self-servicing through to stripping down engines and even a full rebuild.
I don't claim to be a mechanic however (more a hobbyist) and fail to see what relevance this has, unless I've overlooked something?

Relevant because having worked on cars you know things can break.

 

[renault12ts]

Thanks for your input Steve, appreciated

If I've got my bearings right with this pic, this is the CPS (red arrows pointing to it).
Also attached photo of the new sensor.

Parts falling down inside the bell-housing is why I was reluctant to get it up on the ramps and do it myself (driveshafts removed, then try drilling it out) as if it (or part of it) did fall down inside, I don't have the resources here to be able to drop the engine/box and do the rest myself.

I know it's a real pig of a job dropping the engine/box/subframe on these cars having had a clutch/DMF replaced in my W245 so unless I had a fully-equipped workshop (and better knowledge of Mercedes'), I certainly wouldn't fancy tackling it myself.

I've not had a quote from garage 2 as yet because he's certain it's an electrical issue and not the sensor itself so is currently working on that (diagnostics then test drive to see what comes back). But now garage 1 have physically destroyed the outer part of the sensor (from what I'm told), even if an electrical fault exists and is fixed, I'm still going to be tasked with the sensor being replaced at great cost. Once i hear back about diagnostics I'll likely get a quote from garage 2 to replace the sensor as he seems like a decent bloke and knows what he's doing.

Issue is - if the engine and gearbox are going to be dropped to replace the sensor at a cost of say £1k, I'd be silly not to have the clutch replaced at the same time. I've priced this up and whilst the 3pc LUK kit (includes slave) isn't too expensive at £269, a new DMF with new bolts costs just shy of £600(ouch!), plus there's then going to be further labour costs for replacing those components.

As I say I've spent £1k on this car in the last month alone, so spending a further £1869 on it given it's worth (about £2k) to me would seem a bit pointless.
Whilst I like the car and would likely keep it for the foreseeable if I had all this work done, I'm not too sure it'd be a wise choice as from my experiences so far, everything that seems to go wrong with the W169's and W245's (under the bonnet at least) seems to require an engine and gearbox removal. Starter motor, CPS, Clutch... Wish I'd known this before I started on my Mercedes journey.. live and learn though

Just to add...
Also now wondering why garage 1 (Indy) didn't consider testing the signal from the CPS before even attempting to change it because if garage 2 thought of this (and is adamant that it's more commonly an electrical signal/ wiring issue rather than the sensor itself), I would have thought a Mercedes 'specialist' would have thought of this first.
The loom had not been opened by the Indy so obviously they never checked for a break in the wiring from the sensor. Not sure if they checked the signal from it using other means but they didn't tell me they did, so I can only assume they didn't.

Few would test the wiring loom.

 

[optimusprime]

All i can say is i am glad i have an old Mercedes ,.And before plastic came in to be fitted in to a place its not even easy to work in to remove it . And also for a garage to just dive in with a jackhammer to break the existing sensor and making it unmovable .I know if it was mine, then i wold be in there like a shot from a gun , with my leather gloves on, ready for a battle . Did they put the villge idiot on the job and go out for a cupa.We dont know .Only that you have been left with a big repair bill sooner or later

 

[tommerc49]

Its a long and sorry tail, I feel for you.

Its perfectly true that jobs don't always go to plan especially on older cars, but I cant help but feel that the 'original sin' was in the garage not warning you that replacing these sensors can be problematic. If they are a Mercedes specialist surly they should have knowen that placement made it difficult, the sensors seize in/break...

Not very helpful but I sincerely hope you find a resolution to this.

Thanks David. Indeed that's what it boils down to... not the fact they couldn't get it out, nor even the fact I've paid for their time.. but more so the fact I've got the car back in a worse state than it was when it went there, despite allowing them to do what they said needed to be done 'to get the job done'.

They did play the 'older car' card on me, but honestly does age really matter if a car has been looked after. Full dealer history and well below the average mileage for a car of this age. I've known 1 year old cars with twice the mileage of mine.
Seemingly age isn't just a number after all. What you don't hear though, is the age card being called prior to them taking on the work. Nope.. save that for when things go wrong.

Just to add my two penny's worth.
I in fact feel for both the owner and the garage. The owner, frustrated as repair not done, the garage frustrated that they could not do the repair. I have , in the past, had a similar issue with the ABS sensors in the front of my daughters Aygo, they had failed and were stuck solid, same sort of design, plastic sensor into metal hole. I got round it by drilling the sensor, but not all the way through to avoid anything dropping on to the ABS ring, when drilled to nearly size of hole, tapped it and then screwed a large self tapper into plastic, and pulled it out, drilling the hole made it release. Put new ones back in with copper ease.
I can fully understand that this sensor is in a hard to get to place, but i am sure someone should be able to get it out without removing the gearbox. may be using an easy out !!!!

When they phoned me up to tell me they can't get it out and have physically damaged it they asked me if I had any ideas of how to get it out. Seemed a bit odd to ask me that really but I did tell them that I've read online that some people have had to do the same as you've suggested.

They said they didn't want to do that in case anything dropped through to the inside.

Bit late for being a careful soul after you've destroyed it mind you.

Dammed if they do. Dammed if they don't..

In a perfect world the first garage would price the job for the worst case scenario to get the job done, but charge for the real time taken. Sadly, in today's marketplace, before their 'worst case scenario price' has left their lips, the customer is hot footing down the road to the next garage in search of a better price. Their is no real answer on this as it takes trust on both sides.

I deal with Wright Tech and have done for years. Why? Simple. I trust the man and his work and I say that without any irony our humility. I met Andy thru this forum and took in my C55 AMG to him for a 100% dead cert Power Steering Pump replacement. Oh Really.... Andy ran a 'short belt' on the ancillaries, called me up and told me it was 100% not the power steering but the AC condensor. He was right. He then found a company that refurb's the condensors(his time on the phone) and had it repaired at less than a third of the price of a replacement.

I have never found the need to question him on his work or his pricing. I note that Olly (Black C55) has the same reputation. This is no hep for you just now. But it is the only way forward.

Totally get where you're coming from! Before I moved here I had two go-to garages which I knew I could trust with any vehicle I took to them.
Since moving here though I've yet to find one, and of course the only way to find a good one is to keep using garages until you find one that doesn't screw you over and then work on building a relationship with them. I'm a fair guy and I'm always prepared to pay more money for a better product or service rather than always going for the cheapest... but in this case it's hugely back-fired. My search continues

All i can say is i am glad i have an old Mercedes ,.And before plastic came in to be fitted in to a place its not even easy to work in to remove it . And also for a garage to just dive in with a jackhammer to break the existing sensor and making it unmovable .I know if it was mine, then i wold be in there like a shot from a gun , with my leather gloves on, ready for a battle . Did they put the villge idiot on the job and go out for a cupa.We dont know .Only that you have been left with a big repair bill sooner or later

This is just it - we purchased this car thinking that it's an 'older Merc' (55 plate). Little did we know at the time that when something goes wrong it's going to cost two arms, a leg and a lung to pay to have the engine and gearbox removed to fit a cheap part.


Anyway enough ranting... and thank you all again for sharing your opinions. It's been nice to hear both sides of the argument.

Update on the progress of diagnosis/ repair to follow...

 

[grober]

As the sensor is now effectively destroyed and may need the engine gearbox split to access the CPS you have nothing to lose by trying the self tapper/easi-out + prybar approach first- worst that can happen is to drill thro the cps or for it to fragment into the flywheel cavity Might be worth a try because as far as I can see you would be no worse off? You might need a compact air powered drill with an angled head depending on access? This kind of thing?

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[tommerc49]

OK so the garage got back to me:
a) codes were all erased
b) test drove the car.. after 10 mins or so the EML came back on. Symptoms now the same as before
c) ran diagnostics again... image attached showing errors.

Not sure what the door one is (possibly just the kerb light or something?), but the occupancy sensor I know is to do with the passenger seat having a dodgy wire or sensor (when someone's in the passenger seat the SRS warning disappears, otherwise if seat is empty it stays on) - just havn't got around to fixing that yet.
Other one (not shown in photo below) is of course the CPS: p0336 no signal crank sensor



He's quite convinced it's to do with the wiring from the sensor to the ECU, but says that given the state the sensor is now in (covered in electrical tape and cable ties!) due to the Indy buggering it up, the sensor will obviously need changing anyway because it's now too physically fragile (and of course exposed to the elements!).

So now I'm basically back to where I was previously. He can attempt to remove it with engine/gearbox where it should be (will obviously need to remove driveshaft to gain access as there's not enough space to swing a cat otherwise), but if no luck it's going to be an engine and box out job, to knock it out from inside the bell housing... then replace the slave cylinder (and while he's there it makes sense to change the clutch/ plate at the same time).

Ultimately it's going to depend what he quotes me as to whether or not I get him to go ahead with it and attempt to remove it, and then another quote for if it goes pear-shaped and him having to drop the engine/box. At least then I'll have best-case/worst-case numbers to mull over.
Parts, cost-wise I'm looking at £270 for a 3pc LUK clutch kit.. but (hopefully I'm wrong?) if I'm having him do the clutch, is it wrong to not do the DM flywheel while he's there?
If it wasn't so costly (just shy of £600 for the DMF alone, and very difficult to get a hold of one from anywhere I've tried, anytime soon) I wouldn't even be considering cutting this corner.. but for a car worth £2k-ish that's a hell of a lot of dingo dollars!

Or my other option is to get the car back, carry on paying for it until October (would cost too much in fees to pay it off early) then sell it for spares or scrap and in the meantime carry on renting a car or go and lease one. Although I'd be out of pocket considerably, in the long-term this doesn't bother me too much as I'm self-employed and will claim it back as an expense.. but short term it's a lot of money to be spending each month to effectively hire a car, and continue paying for one that's going to Mercedes heaven once it's paid off.

We may also get the W245 back from the dealership soon but have no idea when exactly.. could be a couple of weeks or it could be dragged out for more months.
I guess I'll see what this garage quotes for repair of the 169 first and take it from there.

In the meantime, any opinions on the DMF would be appreciated?
Cheers

 

[tommerc49]

As the sensor is now effectively destroyed and may need the engine gearbox split to access the CPS you have nothing to lose by trying the self tapper/easi-out + prybar approach first- worst that can happen is to drill thro the cps or for it to fragment into the flywheel cavity Might be worth a try because as far as I can see you would be no worse off? You might need a compact air powered drill with an angled head depending on access? This kind of thing?

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Cheers Grober. I'm not very well-equipped at home and working on a driveway in this weather isn't ideal.... but I'll put this to the bloke at the garage as I do agree that it seems like a wise move, and essentially I have little to lose (other than the fact if it does go t!ts-up the car then wouldn't start at all and I'd either need to have it transported back to my home as a large brick with a shiny star badge on, or pay £whateverhequotesme to carry on and drop the engine/box.
In which case this is why I want to get quotes from him first, then if costs are reasonable and within my reach, I'm happy for him to go at it with whatever he wants... given it's current state, dynamite for all I care!

 

[Joderest]

If it were me, i would have a go myself, as all that can drop into the bell housing is a small bit of plastic from the drill. As you have a new sensor, tape the drill bit so only half way is reached, then screw an easy out and just keep turning until sensor is loose.
However, not everyone would have the tools, i would let this garage have a go, they would like to prove the other garage wrong so will try really hard to remove it.
Please let us know the full outcome.

Good luck

 

[BlackC55]

I can see a few problems here...

'Just to add...
Also now wondering why garage 1 (Indy) didn't consider testing the signal from the CPS before even attempting to change it because if garage 2 thought of this (and is adamant that it's more commonly an electrical signal/ wiring issue rather than the sensor itself), I would have thought a Mercedes 'specialist' would have thought of this first.
The loom had not been opened by the Indy so obviously they never checked for a break in the wiring from the sensor. Not sure if they checked the signal from it using other means but they didn't tell me they did, so I can only assume they didn't.'

Unless you asked them to check it out and diagnose it first, they aren't going too. If they spend time diagnosing it using expensive equipment, they are going to quite rightly, charge for that. You didnt ask for that so they wouldnt just take it upon themselves to do it because if it did all go ok and they fixed it and added a diagnosis charge, you would say 'but I told you what the problem was'.

I often have customers call me and say 'this is what the problem is, my scanner told me so'. My repsonse is, 'thats no problem at all,

OK so the garage got back to me:
a) codes were all erased
b) test drove the car.. after 10 mins or so the EML came back on. Symptoms now the same as before
c) ran diagnostics again... image attached showing errors.

Not sure what the door one is (possibly just the kerb light or something?), but the occupancy sensor I know is to do with the passenger seat having a dodgy wire or sensor (when someone's in the passenger seat the SRS warning disappears, otherwise if seat is empty it stays on) - just havn't got around to fixing that yet.
Other one (not shown in photo below) is of course the CPS: p0336 no signal crank sensor

View attachment 74506

He's quite convinced it's to do with the wiring from the sensor to the ECU, but says that given the state the sensor is now in (covered in electrical tape and cable ties!) due to the Indy buggering it up, the sensor will obviously need changing anyway because it's now too physically fragile (and of course exposed to the elements!).

So now I'm basically back to where I was previously. He can attempt to remove it with engine/gearbox where it should be (will obviously need to remove driveshaft to gain access as there's not enough space to swing a cat otherwise), but if no luck it's going to be an engine and box out job, to knock it out from inside the bell housing... then replace the slave cylinder (and while he's there it makes sense to change the clutch/ plate at the same time).

Ultimately it's going to depend what he quotes me as to whether or not I get him to go ahead with it and attempt to remove it, and then another quote for if it goes pear-shaped and him having to drop the engine/box. At least then I'll have best-case/worst-case numbers to mull over.
Parts, cost-wise I'm looking at £270 for a 3pc LUK clutch kit.. but (hopefully I'm wrong?) if I'm having him do the clutch, is it wrong to not do the DM flywheel while he's there?
If it wasn't so costly (just shy of £600 for the DMF alone, and very difficult to get a hold of one from anywhere I've tried, anytime soon) I wouldn't even be considering cutting this corner.. but for a car worth £2k-ish that's a hell of a lot of dingo dollars!

Or my other option is to get the car back, carry on paying for it until October (would cost too much in fees to pay it off early) then sell it for spares or scrap and in the meantime carry on renting a car or go and lease one. Although I'd be out of pocket considerably, in the long-term this doesn't bother me too much as I'm self-employed and will claim it back as an expense.. but short term it's a lot of money to be spending each month to effectively hire a car, and continue paying for one that's going to Mercedes heaven once it's paid off.

We may also get the W245 back from the dealership soon but have no idea when exactly.. could be a couple of weeks or it could be dragged out for more months.
I guess I'll see what this garage quotes for repair of the 169 first and take it from there.

In the meantime, any opinions on the DMF would be appreciated?
Cheers

Your stuck between a rock and a hard place! Crappy situation for you I really feel for you.
Natacha

 

[grober]

A couple of comments- if the second garage is " adamant" the initial fault was wiring/connector related--- what proof have they of that? did they test wiring continuity between CPS and ECU? If not its merely educated speculation at this point not proof. [ CPS are known to go thro a period of intermittant failure- usually a internal break in continuity via expansion as the engine heats up with increasing frequency till eventually total failure occurs] Until the new CPS is fitted there is no way to know for sure . Are these garages Mercedes specialists familiar with this model or simply small independent workshops , many of whom will be excellent , but lack the crucial experience of what extraction technique , if any, works or doesn't in solving this particular problem.
It would be usefull if you could post a couple of pictures of the CPS in situ on your car to assess the damage and access.
If its like this video it seems difficult but not impossible to access?

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[BlackC55]

I can see a few problems here...

'Just to add...
Also now wondering why garage 1 (Indy) didn't consider testing the signal from the CPS before even attempting to change it because if garage 2 thought of this (and is adamant that it's more commonly an electrical signal/ wiring issue rather than the sensor itself), I would have thought a Mercedes 'specialist' would have thought of this first.
The loom had not been opened by the Indy so obviously they never checked for a break in the wiring from the sensor. Not sure if they checked the signal from it using other means but they didn't tell me they did, so I can only assume they didn't.'

Unless you asked them to check it out and diagnose it first, they aren't going too. If they spend time diagnosing it using expensive equipment, they are going to quite rightly, charge for that. You didnt ask for that so they wouldnt just take it upon themselves to do it because if it did all go ok and they fixed it and added a diagnosis charge, you would say 'but I told you what the problem was'.

I often have customers call me and say 'this is what the problem is, my scanner told me so'. My repsonse is, 'thats no problem at all,



Your stuck between a rock and a hard place! Crappy situation for you I really feel for you.
Natacha

Pressed the wrong bloody button...stupid technology. What I was trying to say was that alot of people I speak to here have diagnosed themselves and I ALWAYS try and see if the customer will allow us to get a look at it ourselves first. Not because we want to make money on diagnostics but because we dont want customers to go through what you have. you seem like a very reasonable chap so its a shame they didnt go through that process with you.
Keep us updated on what your current indy says Hopefully good news for you. I have everything crossed!! If it does turn out to be have been the ECU all along then I imagine the original indy will be wishing they had asked you if you minded them looking into it first!
Natacha

 

[optimusprime]

Some side shops would love a chalenge ,,only thing is finding one .What about getting a little heat on the sensor if it melts it should pull out . May be a hot soldering iron and push the end in the plastic.I would try anything . Good luck .

 

[toolman1954]

Well, to be honest, I had not realised how difficult access to the CPS is, until I looked at the Youtube video kindly supplied by Grober. You need to be double jointed with hands like those of a pixie, just too get at the sensor. No wonder the drive shaft was dropped to get some better access. I have done some ball aching fiddly jobs in my past, but this takes the biscuit.! Kudos and respect for anyone that can pull out the knackered CPS, without dropping the engine, and without doing any further damage to anything else.

1. "optimusprime "
"Some side shops would love a challenge ,,only thing is finding one .What about getting a little heat on the sensor if it melts it should pull out . May be a hot soldering iron and push the end in the plastic.I would try anything . Good luck ".

2.
O.K. My thoughts on having a go to get it out. I would try to make a hole in the CPS, screw in a rawlbolt or similar to grip onto it, and use a small slide hammer, similar to that which you can use to pull out brake pads, and see if that shifts it.

Next Bright Idea Anyone ??

 

[BTB 500]

Twe purchased this car thinking that it's an 'older Merc' (55 plate). Little did we know at the time that when something goes wrong it's going to cost two arms, a leg and a lung to pay to have the engine and gearbox removed to fit a cheap part.

IIRC the specific layout of the W168/169 does mean that some jobs which are relatively minor on other cars e.g. clutch replacement, timing chain, tensioner, diesel injectors, etc. require the engine to be removed. I've not owned one myself and I'm not a mechanic but I thought this was fairly well known, and potentially a significant risk on older cars if you're not doing the work yourself.

Sorry to hear of your problems though, and I hope you do get the car sorted without having to sell any body parts!

 

[grober]

THE W168/W169 and the M 266 engine and gearbox with its sandwich floorpan design were miracles of packaging in their day. As BTB 500 says this means they are often difficult to work on. Rumour has it that the sandwich floor was designed to house batteries as the W168 was going to be Mercedes first electric car---- but they bottled it- bearing in mind the battery tech of the time it was probably a wise move!

They did however produce a hydrogen fuel cell version in 1999 the NECAR4

 

[optimusprime]

Next idea after i saw the video .A wood screw on the gas jet till it is red hot .Push that into the sensor let it go cold ,then try and pull it out .It wont go in [sensor] ,so you can rule that one out only space under the sensor is about 1/32 aprox above the frywheel so no place for it to go .Other idea is socket that will fit over the top and after you give it pleanty of plusgass try and turn it .It looks like jusr a push fit . Another one is ROSTICE get the bell housing warm with a hairdrier .Then spray Rosstice on the sensor this will make it go down to freezing point Make one part shrink .Come on must be 20 more ways to get this out use your brains .It went in it will come out .