Suspension refresh - new issue

[IFFY100]

Basically I've been renewing suspension items that require to be refreshed with Lemforder/sachs parts. So far I have done the following in terms of the front suspension: sachs struts/oem springs, sachs top mounts lemforder thrust arms and lemforder ball joints and lemforder suspension arm (the arm the strut, drop link and hub ball joint bolt to). The last two parts I changed where due to play in the BJ and tearing in the arm bushes. The car would noticeably move left and right after going over a bump. The movement was down to the torn bushes. Now doing all this and having a four wheel alignment done (proper professional), there seems to be a bit of twitchiness in the suspension. This time though the wheel does not feel like it is moving sideways over bumps. So I'm thinking that the movevement in the suspension is because I tighetened up different parts and those parts are now exposing weakness elsewhere. This being the case, which part should I look at to change now? Or investigate? Tie rod ends seem to be fine

 

[jasonh]

If you haven't had the alignment done yet the front wheels could be toeing out. That makes the car very twitchy.

 

[IFFY100]

Had the alignment done

 

[ray_hennig]

Basically I've been renewing suspension items that require to be refreshed with Lemforder/sachs parts. So far I have done the following in terms of the front suspension: sachs struts/oem springs, sachs top mounts lemforder thrust arms and lemforder ball joints and lemforder suspension arm (the arm the strut, drop link and hub ball joint bolt to). The last two parts I changed where due to play in the BJ and tearing in the arm bushes. The car would noticeably move left and right after going over a bump. The movement was down to the torn bushes. Now doing all this and having a four wheel alignment done (proper professional), there seems to be a bit of twitchiness in the suspension. This time though the wheel does not feel like it is moving sideways over bumps. So I'm thinking that the movevement in the suspension is because I tighetened up different parts and those parts are now exposing weakness elsewhere. This being the case, which part should I look at to change now? Or investigate? Tie rod ends seem to be fine

Different car - mine's a 1991 W124 - but there may be worn components at the rear. Subframe mounts and various rear control arms, when they are worn, can cause the car to "steer from the rear". I recall this and general twitchiness when passing lorries at high speed. All's now well after everything was replaced.

RayH

 

[Petrol Pete]

Just to clarify .

All of the work was on the front of the car , nothing replaced/repaired on the rear. ?

 

[W1ghty]

I have recently done similar to the work you have , my E is at 120k now and most did need doing when it was removed . The front does feel like a new car now .
I also did the tie rods inner and outer because the parts are cheap and I figured if I was getting the alignment done I might as well change them before it was done . One of the tie rods was like some loose spinning maraca (spelling ?) , so I’m glad I did them .

 

[IFFY100]

Just to clarify .

All of the work was on the front of the car , nothing replaced/repaired on the rear. ?

Yes. Although the rear did get sachs struts and oem springs. That was a year ago though

 

[IFFY100]

I suspect the ball joints at the top of the suspension. I'll split the joints and check for play. In hindsight I shouldve renewed everything

 

[Petrol Pete]

Their are more than a few 'stressed' parts on the rear that might need replacing. Some of the 'funny' feelings on the front of a car can have their origin in worn components in the rear.

 

[IFFY100]

Their are more than a few 'stressed' parts on the rear that might need replacing. Some of the 'funny' feelings on the front of a car can have their origin in worn components in the rear.

Agreed. But this is defo the front

 

[Petrol Pete]

Was everything tightened up with the full weight of the car on its wheels ? Did the camber bolts go back in the same position (out of 3) that they came out of.

Clutching at straws a bit here.

 

[W1ghty]

Agreed. But this is defo the front

I’m going with it’s a part at the front you haven’t replaced yet .

 

[IFFY100]

Was everything tightened up with the full weight of the car on its wheels ? Did the camber bolts go back in the same position (out of 3) that they came out of.

Clutching at straws a bit here.

Yes the weight of the car was on the wheels when tightened. I got the alignment guy to redo that aswell. The guy I use for alignment is very good and he redid the camber bolts for positioning while alignment as it is part of the alignment process.

 

[IFFY100]

I’m going with it’s a part at the front you haven’t replaced yet .

Looks like it. I will be checking that out. Initially I didn't want to replace anything that didn't need replacing. But a deeper inspection will reveal the issue hopefully.

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

I have recently done similar to the work you have , my E is at 120k now and most did need doing when it was removed . The front does feel like a new car now .
I also did the tie rods inner and outer because the parts are cheap and I figured if I was getting the alignment done I might as well change them before it was done . One of the tie rods was like some loose spinning maraca (spelling ?) , so I’m glad I did them .

I always got the impression that the inner tie rods are more difficult to replace - is this true? I've never done them before, I know you have a W211 with double wishbone vs McPherson but I'd imagine the inner/outer tie rod ends are the same.

Looks like it. I will be checking that out. Initially I didn't want to replace anything that didn't need replacing. But a deeper inspection will reveal the issue hopefully.

Assuming your suspension setup is the same as an W212 E Class, surely that already is everything at the front? There are the actual anti roll bar bushes (not the sway bar ends/ARB drop links), but you have to basically change the whole ARB as they come as one thing.

There are two big control arms, a ball joint which connects to one of them, the drop links, the strut and top mount, and the tie rod ends (and inner too I suppose). You've done all of these except for the tie rod ends, right?

What else is there on the front?

I'm not familiar with the rear suspension just yet, but apparently the rear ARB drop links are the first to go and are quite a cheap and easy replacement. Apparently they will contribute to the rear end feeling disconnected and 'sliding about' a bit if they're worn.

 

[W1ghty]

I always got the impression that the inner tie rods are more difficult to replace - is this true?



Assuming your suspension setup is the same as an W212 E Class, surely that already is everything at the front? There are the actual anti roll bar bushes (not the sway bar ends/ARB drop links), but you have to basically change the whole ARB as they come as one thing.

There are two big control arms, a ball joint which connects to one of them, the drop links, the strut and top mount, and the tie rod ends.

What else is there on the front?

The inner tie rods were slightly more fiddly than the outer , you need to but a tie rod tool for a few quid on eBay . There is plenty on YouTube on doing it and how you brace the part of the steering column so you don’t damage it .
But if you have changed most of front suspension yourself it is easier than doing that .