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W03 2.1, 2005 - Engine Block Coolant Plug

Does anybody have a torque setting for no35 in the diagram please ? Thank you very much Bob for the input. Thats educated me on what the script is now. Im thinking the drain plug has gotta be thicker than the actual core plug so if the drain plug is corroded , what kinda nick is the core plug on other side in ? Hmmmmm I will have to give it a visual inspection and check it out. I wonder what kinda access to that side there is then. Probably more since there are no exhaust components in the way of it.......
 
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I can now shed a bit more light on item A1179970230 Its a coolant gallery removeable core plug . Its threaded to facilitate the fitting of a block preheater coil as detailed here.
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Index/Resources/20.1_124_block_heater.pdf
and moaned about in this thread
Mysterious Water Leak ? - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

There seems to be some doubt expressed as to the nature of the seal whether its an elastomer [ o-ring] or maybe a deformable metal gasket- pictures of
A1179970230 on line depict an elastomer going by the pdf tightening torque is 70 Nm= approx 50ft lbs which seems a bit extreme but that's what it says??
 
Thank you very much Grober for that very good info. Torque setting quite important. Its a rubber o-ring my part came with. When looking over the DPFE sensor I noticed that on the info on the diagrams the original one supposed to be for my engine might possibly be diffierent than the one that was fitted to it when I bought it. Thats quite annoying if its wrong one fitted to my car since I had to replace it before with it throwing up all sorts of stupid false errors and a limp mode. Can pm u vin number or reg ?

I can now shed a bit more light on item A1179970230 Its a coolant gallery removeable core plug . Its threaded to facilitate the fitting of a block preheater coil as detailed here.
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Index/Resources/20.1_124_block_heater.pdf
and moaned about in this thread
Mysterious Water Leak ? - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

There seems to be some doubt expressed as to the nature of the seal whether its an elastomer [ o-ring] or maybe a deformable metal gasket- pictures of
A1179970230 on line depict an elastomer going by the pdf tightening torque is 70 Nm= approx 50ft lbs which seems a bit extreme but that's what it says??
 
Just realized that the DPFE sensor for my car is actually correct but
A0051537728 was Replaced By: A0061534928

I know this is a bit off subject but I was after this info few years ago concerning the upgrading of them DPFE sensors. Mercedes were not for telling me the newer part. Sold me the original instead of the part that has replaced it. Must have loads of them left on their shelves no doubt.

Thank you very much Grober for that very good info. Torque setting quite important. Its a rubber o-ring my part came with. When looking over the DPFE sensor I noticed that on the info on the diagrams the original one supposed to be for my engine might possibly be diffierent than the one that was fitted to it when I bought it. Thats quite annoying if its wrong one fitted to my car since I had to replace it before with it throwing up all sorts of stupid false errors and a limp mode. Can pm u vin number or reg ?
 
Mercedes seem to have two policies on this
1 use till stocks exhausted
2 new part no must be used

I can only assume 1 reflects a change in supplier and 2 a substitute part due to an inherent fault/weakness in the original

doesn't say which applied in your case of course!;)
 
This job is gonna wait until Monday now. Got use of another car meantime. All my other bits for full service turned up now so it will all come together next week.
 
Still havent fitted this yet. Been fixing other peoples cars and working on few other little errors on my own. Will update when I get it fitted.
 
Still not done it yet. Some RADWELD like stuff I put in the coolant actually has plugged the hole and plugged it including when its under pressure for now. Purely a temporary fix. The job is being put over to somebody that has done them before. Meantime I been fixing other wee niggly problems that needed sorted. Actually running very schweet the now and I aint even done the full service on it yet which I will do def within the next 2 weeks ......
ENGINE BLOCK COOLANT PLUG: TO BE CONTINUED FOR NOW...........
 
Some RADWELD like stuff I put in the coolant actually has plugged the hole and plugged it including when its under pressure for now. Purely a temporary fix

One of the first posts I ever made on this forum in 2003, was about a water leak from the water pump area on my then S210 with the 606 engine. In desperation at the time, I emptied a can of leak sealer ( some American product ) which sealed the leak and was still leak free in 2015 when I sold the car. During all those years there were no more leaks, and no need to ever fit the new water pump I had bought. Despite warnings from others, the leak sealant had never blocked up the heating system. I do not know if this flies in the face of preventative maintenance, but at times fix only something that is broken, and seems at the moment your leak is fixed.

Steve
 
One of the first posts I ever made on this forum in 2003, was about a water leak from the water pump area on my then S210 with the 606 engine. In desperation at the time, I emptied a can of leak sealer ( some American product ) which sealed the leak and was still leak free in 2015 when I sold the car. During all those years there were no more leaks, and no need to ever fit the new water pump I had bought. Despite warnings from others, the leak sealant had never blocked up the heating system. I do not know if this flies in the face of preventative maintenance, but at times fix only something that is broken, and seems at the moment your leak is fixed.

Steve

I used some Radweld once and i was one of the unfortunate ones where it did indeed block the heating system :wallbash:

I managed to get it working patially by connecting a pressure washer to the hoses but in the end had to pull the entire dash out to replace the matrix.

It was just one of those things really i used it a couple of times before and never had a problem. I was more annoyed at the car manufacturer burying the matrix deep behind the dash i think.
 
I suspect radweld, leak sealer and similar products come from an era when car technology was simpler and water passages in radiators and heaters were wider and thus less liable to clog up. I would hesitate before using such a product on a modern Mercedes- but as the saying goes " any port in a storm" can have a certain appeal under certain circumstances??
 
When I say RADWELD. It was a RADWELD typey kind of stuff. Bit more expensive. Obviously its ingredients have been updated compared to the old stuff. The stuff sold today are more specifically for todays cars. Mine aint a modern Mercedes grober bud lol. 2004 plate but obviously its kept maintained. Its not far away from 200,000 miles so there are things that are going to be required and will get done to it. I've decided to keep it so its a project now, which is heading towards a slow rebuild, re-spray, sparkly wheels and some outer chrome edge finishings. Not seen any white pre 2007 C220's. Well actually I seen 1 pre-2007 white coupe on ebay last year but the paint job was well ropey. I prefer the round style lights pre-2007 look to the squarer front lights on the ones after 2007.
 
No criticism intended. When talking modern I was really referring to post 2010 -ish cars where in the search for thermal efficiency [ aka fuel efficiency] cooling systems are increasingly " finely tuned" That's not say they don't work as well but that the boundaries that they operate in might be a bit tighter. That's to say older cooling systems were probably less thermally efficient but are perhaps capable of still working under a wider range of conditions. While people might recoil at "contaminating" the cooling system of a 15+ year old car with leak sealing additives its likely the cooling system isn't exactly in the pristine condition it left the factory either. Taking into account the possible "fiscal challenge" posed by repairing certain leaks in cars "of a certain age" then it might well make sense to give such additives a try first.;)
 
Yeah but worth a try to enable me to get on with other things at the moment. I’m going to do the brakes this week. Pads & a brake fluid flush. New suspension on the back when the shocks come and a full service to do. Unfortunately the previous owners definitely didn’t look after it. When I bought it 4 years ago, the 1st service I done on it, when I removed the old oil filter it was a solid crust and had been causing the breather system problems. It’s annoying that some people neglect their cars and then moan when something serious happens because of it. Since the engine in mine is a good un and pulls like a train I decided to keep it long term. It will get a lot of TLC over the next 2 months then I’m cutting short my MOT to get another one done in JULY. It’s normally December but that’s a nightmare month to be thinking bout MOT’s !

No criticism intended. When talking modern I was really referring to post 2010 -ish cars where in the search for thermal efficiency [ aka fuel efficiency] cooling systems are increasingly " finely tuned" That's not say they don't work as well but that the boundaries that they operate in might be a bit tighter. That's to say older cooling systems were probably less thermally efficient but are perhaps capable of still working under a wider range of conditions. While people might recoil at "contaminating" the cooling system of a 15+ year old car with leak sealing additives its likely the cooling system isn't exactly in the pristine condition it left the factory either. Taking into account the possible "fiscal challenge" posed by repairing certain leaks in cars "of a certain age" then it might well make sense to give such additives a try first.;)
 
2 Years and 30,000 miles (hit 200,00mls) later No47 has now sprung a pinhole leak lol Arggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg. This is gonna be fun. Hopefully easier than no35 was !

It would appear from this diagram there's a seal ring associated with it?
CYLINDER CRANKCASE MERCEDES OM646 (646963)

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I took DPF and CAT off and this gave perfect access to knocking out the corroded core plug. Which was a standard one and not threaded. I handed it over to a mechanic after that whose done them all his life. 5 minutes he had installed new one with some paste around edges for added peace of mind. I had a fight with the dpf and cat puting it back together and also handed that over to him to put back together for me. It wasnt actually too bad a job compared to the 1st core plug that popped. Well it was a threaded coolant drain plug tthe previous one. Now it looks like this is the year i say goodbye to the car and sell it on. Lovely c class SE exec coming my way next :)
 

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