Hi I have a S124 300TE-24 which has the normal rust starting in on the arches on all 4 coners. The front ones don't bother me much as worst case new wings, paint and job done. One of teh rear arches seems solid enough just minor bubbling so should need little more than cleaning up and painting. However the other one I have some misgivings about. It looks to have a fair bit of P38 in it and when trying to feel round teh lip the there is non, its feels like the lip is filled with somthing, initially I though the whole thing has rotted away in the past and had filler put in, but its not filler it's almost rubber like as there is a slight give in it, any ideas as to what this is? the lip feels fine on the other side
Sickpuppy e220
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2010
- Messages
- 125
- Car
- 1995 e220 face lift.
Liberal coat of underseal???
Found household silicone sealant used in my door cards so nothing silences me lately lol
Dan
Found household silicone sealant used in my door cards so nothing silences me lately lol
Dan
grober
MB Master
Unfortunately rear wheel arch repairs together with rear sill jacking points and rear subframe front mounts are the "Achilles heel "area of these cars. The only sound and effective long term repair is to cut out the rusted metal and replace it with suitably protected new steel sections. Extensive rust in these areas means a close examination of the entire car structural integrity should be made before embarking on any extensive repairs and govern your approach. If you intend to keep the car long term and spend money that is?
bh13coupe
Active Member
I am doing this in the new year on my coupe, rear arches have rust and jacking points need sorting. If anyone has used someone to do this job and is happy with the job done, please let me know. I intend to keep the car and the cost to change it would be more than the repair.
Indeed I know cutting out and repalceing metal is the only repair that will last long term. I guess I will ahve to get all the filler off and see what I am dealing with on this arch. The other one is fine, its just starting really and a good clean up and going over with some good anti rust promer and painting will see it good for a while yet. My worry is the side with the spongy ruberised filling inside it.. wondering what it is really!, feels like that ruber seam sealer they used to use on Mk2 golfs if truth me known (anyone who has taken a factory fitted front wing off a Mk2 golf will know what I mean) it does make sence to fill this area though as it just traps mud and filth promoting rust, of course that is all well and good untill water gets bewteen the slealer and the metal... then its game over in a short time
bh13coupe
Active Member
I dont have the skills or the time, the potential for error is too high with my abilities
Ted
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2004
- Messages
- 7,248
- Location
- Bourton on Dunsmore
- Car
- Lexus RC300h F-Sport, Yamaha XVS 1100, Toyota C-HR GR sport
Chrome wheel arches it is then! 
bh13coupe
Active Member
bh13coupe
Active Member
Had a look about the rest of car, and the jacking points are very very good, as are the subframe mounts. The drivers side arches do seem to be for the most part suffering from surface rust on the drivers side, took a wire brush on the drill to them, found pitted metal under a thin layer of filler, so looks like they have been attended to before but not suffered greatly. These I have trated to a think layer of anti rust primer, and will do the horrid chrome arch thing till I have properly sorted the other side and its ready for paint. The passenger side front wing has almost certainly a hole above the bumper hidden with filler, again similar light corrosion to the arch as the drivers side. Would this be better repalced or repaired? (in short how good are pattern part wings? as the arches are sound just a hole forward of the arch above the bumper) the rear arch on this side is the bad one, and I have yet to sum up the courage to find out what is or is not under the filler!
I will admit to being able to handle a Mig welder,angle grinder, and a DeVilbis JGA and have seen some polish rear arch repair panels on ebay that may do the job
I will admit to being able to handle a Mig welder,angle grinder, and a DeVilbis JGA and have seen some polish rear arch repair panels on ebay that may do the job
