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W124 M104 E320 not starting.

Does appear that the ECU is an issue if there is no voltage drop between ECU terminal 40 and battery positive (main feed) or ECU terminal 21 and the starter wire. How are the battery earth terminal and the strut tower connections, any sign of being loose or corroded?
 
Does appear that the ECU is an issue if there is no voltage drop between ECU terminal 40 and battery positive (main feed) or ECU terminal 21 and the starter wire. How are the battery earth terminal and the strut tower connections, any sign of being loose or corroded?
The earth terminals look fine, I'll drop them off and clean them up just to make sure, good call. I do get the voltage at those terminals but I am aware that, as you have to disconnect the plug coupler there is no current draw so it won't necessarily reflect any volt drop over a high resistance contact. I am going to put some sort of shunt over my meter to get a better idea of real world voltages on those pins. I am considering taking the OVP out and bypassing the contacts in it, what can go wrong with that!!??
 
Are you getting "engine running signals" from the cam and crank position sensors-- the ECU needs these signals to continue to power fuel and ignition circuits as a safety shut off feature in the event of a crash.
 
Are you getting "engine running signals" from the cam and crank position sensors-- the ECU needs these signals to continue to power fuel and ignition circuits as a safety shut off feature in the event of a crash.
I'm not even getting to that stage, the fuel pump does not even prime the system prior to start. Unless the ECU does some sort of health check on the sensors prior to picking the fuel pump relay I cannot see how they are the cause. I'll check their impedance to see if they are in spec just in case.
 
Thanks Graeme, but not a lot of that is relevant to the HFM-SFI system on my car. Everything else that runs off fuses 6 or 7 seems to work ok so I have ruled out the ignition switch.
 
Have you checked both stages of the OVP relay work properly?

Did you disconnect the battery before welding?
 
Have you checked both stages of the OVP relay work properly?

Did you disconnect the battery before welding?
I have checked both parts of the OVP by checking the voltages on the (disconnected) ECU plug couplers and got both of the voltages I would expect, I'm aware that this may not show any volt drop over a high resistance contact in the OVP though as it wouldn't be pulling any current. I made a couple of straps up last night and I'm going to strap out the two contacts on the OVP and see if the fuel pump relay picks when I turn the ignition on (I'll try to resist trying to start it.) That should prove once and for all if its the OVP. I opened up the OVP to see if I could clean the relay contacts but mine (K.A.E) has sealed relays rather than the open ones I have seen before.
As for the battery whilst welding, I think the answer is no it wasn't disconnected. However, the car has been run a few times since the welding was completed so I am assuming I dodged a bullet there, unless you know different and a latent fault could have been created.
Thanks for the response.
 
Martyn, I've just pulled the fuel pump relay on my car and tested it's response. I can get a full contact close with 6 volts (4 old d cells) so the ECU output of 8 should easily be enough to energise it. Poke in the dark but how about testing yours and see what you get. I have 71.6 ohms across the coil.
 
First plug the ecu back in, the ovp needs the ecu to be in circuit to test the following.

If it was me, I'd test the output of the OVP relay at the relay plug itself not the ecu. Check that you get lives exiting the relay at pins 2 and 4 with the ignition on.

If the ovp relay is outputting correctly it should power up pins 27 and 39 of the ECU. At that point the ecu should briefly power up pin 29 to trigger the fuel pump relay to prime the pumps.
 
Martyn, I've just pulled the fuel pump relay on my car and tested it's response. I can get a full contact close with 6 volts (4 old d cells) so the ECU output of 8 should easily be enough to energise it. Poke in the dark but how about testing yours and see what you get. I have 71.6 ohms across the coil.
Thanks for that, 8v should have done it I guess. I'll pull the relay and measure the coil resistance. I'll also try it with one of the radiator fan relays which has the same part number.
 
First plug the ecu back in, the ovp needs the ecu to be in circuit to test the following.

If it was me, I'd test the output of the OVP relay at the relay plug itself not the ecu. Check that you get lives exiting the relay at pins 2 and 4 with the ignition on.

If the ovp relay is outputting correctly it should power up pins 27 and 39 of the ECU. At that point the ecu should briefly power up pin 29 to trigger the fuel pump relay to prime the pumps.
I'll see what I can do but the access to the bottom of the OVP relay base is really difficult to get meter leads into. I shorted out pins 1&2 and 4&6 yesterday which should replicate a good OVP and that didn't help.
 
Does anyone know that the jumper between pin 5&6 of one of the ECU plug couplers is for? The diagrams I have show a simple link across but mine measures 247 ohms.
 
There is a resistive element inside the the airflow meter that is earthed so that's most probably your reading. It is also connected to pin 5.
 
There is a resistive element inside the the airflow meter that is earthed so that's most probably your reading. It is also connected to pin 5.
This is pin 5/6 on the other plug coupler, the body wiring side rather than the engine loom.
 
If it's the green wire your talking about it's not connected to anything.

Just to confirm have you retraced the alarm wiring?
 
If it's the green wire your talking about it's not connected to anything.
It is green, it is shown as being a loop terminated on pins 5&6. I would have expected virtually a short circuit but it has a resistance of 247ohms. Can't see it being relevant but just wondered why they would have put an external strap in the loom.
 
It is green, it is shown as being a loop terminated on pins 5&6. I would have expected virtually a short circuit but it has a resistance of 247ohms. Can't see it being relevant but just wondered why they would have put an external strap in the loom.
Different markets had options that we dont, it's probably an interlock circuit for another system.
 
Probably right, unlikely to be causing my problem.

No, your fault is either the ECU or that alarm system.
 

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