W124 Suspension spruce up?

[Uberwagon]

Hello all

I have a 1991 500E and want to give the suspension a quick going over as it has hit 200,000km.

I was going to do the rear spheres, top mounts, ARB bushes and front shocks.

Anything else generally need replacing on these? I get a slight knock at the front when cold but was told this is a common symptom of the front shocks going.

I've also been told the self leveling rear suspension is self bleeding, I hope this is true, if so is there anything I need to look out for when I change the spheres?

Regards!

Dave!

 

[Ian B Walker]

The pump is self bleeding but I am afraid that the mech at the rear of the car isnt. Its not a hard thing to do, just fiddly. Knocks from front suspension could be torsion bar bushes. You have a heavy lump there and your torsion bar is going to take some stick. When you change the spheres make sure that you release the pressure first (disconect the arm going to the self leveling device, move it down and then release the bleed screw on the actuator) Andy_k did a write up on changing them on an 124 estate. There wont be a lot of difference. I could be wrong though

 

[Uberwagon]

Pah, what's the worst that could happen haha.

Dave!

 

[Ian B Walker]

Pah, what's the worst that could happen haha.

Dave!

You could shere off the bleed nipple on the actuator Oh and boy do you have problems then. Seriously if that does happen then the best way to repair it (Might as well replace the hydraulic lines while you are at it) is to lower the rear sub frame. Trying to route all those pipes is a nightmare while all together

 

[andy_k]

Pah, what's the worst that could happen haha.

Dave!

what Ian said or you get covered in hydraulic oil

On the estate you don't have to release the pressure first as long as you make sure both wheels are off the floor so the system is unloaded.

Undo the big bolt on the base of either sphere and make sure you are not directly underneath - You'll probably still get soaked in oil but at least you have been warned

Andy

 

[bolide]

I'd deiitely replace the front balljoints and possibly springs as well. I'd also be tempted to replace the front flexible brake pipes

Front ARB bushes alone transforms a W124!

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[andy_k]

oh and don't forget - if you are taking the rear suspension to bits change the hydraulic pipes from the self levelling valves to the cylinders. They cost about £12 for the pair and cutting them off rather than undoing them will save you a lot of time and skin on your knuckles

If you are buying parts from the dealer make sure you get the copper compression washers as well. You should also get new O rings for the spheres - without them the system leaks

Andy

 

[big x]

Are the ARB bushes a ten minute job to replace ? Looks easy from the diagram.
I have a slight knock from the front on slow speed bumps mainly with lock applied.
It's fine on the motorway.I'm going to jack the car up and look at the steering idler arm,
wishbone balljoint and ARB bushes.My 94 E320 103k passed the MOT last week and as far as I can tell nothing has ever been replaced suspension wise,any tips which would be the most likely culprit for the noise ?

thanx

adam

 

[Ian B Walker]

Yes changing the ARB is an easy job as long as you have the front of the car off the road. Changing the steering joints is a little more difficult. You will need a spring compressor if you are going to do it at home. I have found the best way to change the steering joint is to remove the wishbone. The last one I did needed 13 tons of pressure to to move the joint out of the wishbone. Don't forget to center punch the washers and the chassis to maintain camber angles. Its a pig of a job in all honesty. (limited tooling wise). Good luck and if you get stuck i am always here

 

[kth286]

On the E320 W124 you have to change the whole of the wishbone if the lower ball joint goes. The ball joint is NOT replaceable on it's own as it is welded into the wishbone.

List price of wishbone was about £206+Vat.

I found a good way to eliminate some front suspension clunks is to remove the anti-roll bar completely and then drive the car along your test route.

If the noise is still there you know it is nothing to do with the anti roll bar.

(Very easy job to remove and replace, and if you plan to replace the cheap rubbers anyway)

 

[big x]

On the E320 W124 you have to change the whole of the wishbone if the lower ball joint goes. The ball joint is NOT replaceable on it's own as it is welded into the wishbone.

List price of wishbone was about £206+Vat.

I found a good way to eliminate some front suspension clunks is to remove the anti-roll bar completely and then drive the car along your test route.

If the noise is still there you know it is nothing to do with the anti roll bar.

(Very easy job to remove and replace, and if you plan to replace the cheap rubbers anyway)

I'll try the rubbers route first.Luckily there are cheaper sources for the wishbones like GSF selling OE make for £90 ish or German dealers on Ebay.de.

adam