W211 E320cdi limp mode,codes

[MORGANpl]

From time to time( not often) the car was entering limp mode. Stop the engine and start was "solving" the problem but last time i been stuck in traffic for almost 1.5h and the car went in limp mode but this time the engine light come on (first time since i own the car ) so this time the stop/start didn't work. I get home and when i begin to park the car the gearbox star to jerk while changing gear from D to R and R to D. Reading with cheap scanner I got the code P2015. Ive plug the car to snap on tool and got those codes show 2510,2513,2616. So what could be the problem? Swirl actuator , turbo actuator , boost sensor ? Can one problem cause to other? I mean if the swirl motor is not working can this show the turbo actuator error etc? I don't think that suddenly all those 3 things gone wrong?? And now the gearbox... Those errors would have something to do with the gearbox jerking?

 

[W1ghty]

This is a problem that does crop up on om642’s and the forums . If you Google the problems there is a fair bit of reading . My car has had it
The swirl flap/inlet port motor , turbo actuator and I believe the exhaust back pressure sensor are all controlled by the same fuse in the engine bay fuse box . F44 , 15amp fuse I believe .
It would help to have a Star diagnostics at an MB specialist (or an icarsoft code reader ) . Do you have an MB specialist nearby ?
From my experience (I’m not a mechanic)
it will either be the actuator being gunged up or having a break inside on the electrical wires .
The swirl flaps sticking in the gunged up inlet manifolds or the inlet port motor being affected by dripping oil from the orange seal by the front of the turbo .

 

[W1ghty]

If it were me I would
remove the actuator and spray clean the gunk out with electrical cleaner and put a tiny tab of high temp grease on the moving worm gear thingy inside . Check the small wires that leave the electrical board inside the actuator , they can develop breaks .
Spray clean the inside of the exhaust back pressure sensor , there is a small hole that can block up inside .
If these two jobs don’t fix it , I would try fitting a 4.7k ohm resistor (£1) into the electrical feed to the inlet port motor to see if it’s the swirl flaps which are sticking .
These are nearly all free jobs with basic tools if you are handy .

 

[MORGANpl]

If it were me I would
remove the actuator and spray clean the gunk out with electrical cleaner and put a tiny tab of high temp grease on the moving worm gear thingy inside . Check the small wires that leave the electrical board inside the actuator , they can develop breaks .
Spray clean the inside of the exhaust back pressure sensor , there is a small hole that can block up inside .
If these two jobs don’t fix it , I would try fitting a 4.7k ohm resistor (£1) into the electrical feed to the inlet port motor to see if it’s the swirl flaps which are sticking .
These are nearly all free jobs with basic tools if you are handy .

The fuse is ok and the turbo actuator been repaired once already maybe around 3 years ago... Maybe I should just buy new one or should I start from buying the flaps actuator plug ?

 

[W1ghty]

The fuse is ok and the turbo actuator been repaired once already maybe around 3 years ago... Maybe I should just buy new one or should I start from buying the flaps actuator plug ?

This is an easy plug purchase for the resistor on the inlet port motor .

Pardon our interruption...

The exhaust back pressure sensors don’t last forever either so if yours is original I think they are £50 new .

 

[MORGANpl]

This is an easy plug purchase for the resistor on the inlet port motor .

Pardon our interruption...

The exhaust back pressure sensors don’t last forever either so if yours is original I think they are £50 new .

Plug fitted ,car have power back just lots of smoke from exhaust... I believe because i was driving week or so in limp mode so need a good blast.

 

[simmon01]

Thanks for reporting the outcome

 

[ChrisEdu]

Hope it stays sorted!