W211, OM642, E320 CDI Turbo Actuator

[Sebs007]

Hi everyone!

I’ve recently noticed my car is feeling sluggish and producing smoke. After doing some checks, I found that the turbo actuator isn’t moving at all. I tested it both with the engine running and revving, as well as with the engine off and then switching ignition to position 2, but there’s no movement. I unclipped the control arm to check if the turbo veins were stuck, but they move freely.

The actuator looks fairly new and has a G-88 label on it. After some research, I realised it's likely an aftermarket part from Amazon, not the original OEM Garett/Hella actuator. I took it off the car to confirm, and it’s indeed not the original part.

I’ve read that this issue might be linked to the swirl flap motor failing. Apparently, due to its location, it can get covered in oil from the turbo which might lead to electrical problems. I’ve also seen posts suggesting that the turbo actuator and swirl flap motor are on the same circuit, causing Fuse 44 in the engine bay to blow. I checked the fuse, but it seems fine, so I’m not sure if that’s relevant in my case.

I’m wondering what else could cause the turbo actuator to stop working, aside from the fact that it’s a cheap replacement? If it turns out to be a quality issue, does anyone know where I can get the OEM part? Or maybe someone has a spare in good working order that I could buy? I contacted my local dealer, but they said I’d need to buy the entire turbo unit with the actuator also they couldn’t give me the part number for just the actuator.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[boxer 01]

Mercedes E-Class W211 320CDI Electronic Turbo Actuator 730314 G-88 6NW009228 | eBay

Can Be Found on the Aluminium Side of the Actuator. You Will Probably Find It Sticks and Does Not Move the Full Range or Freely, Normally the Vanes Will Stick or Go Tight at Either End, Especially When Hot.

www.ebay.co.uk

You have to send yours back, so I would probably ask first as yours is not an original.

 

[Troutman]

It might be worth opening it up to see if something obvious has made it stop working. It's just a few clips, I did mine yesterday and it was fine but I applied a smear of vaseline to the gears ad now it's working perfect.

My car belched out black smoke that day after I bought it and it was the fuel pressure sensor, very cheap and very easy in fact most stuff on the V6 is pretty easy to do (apart from the oil cooler seals)

 

[Sebs007]

I’ve opened it up briefly (didn’t had much time left to check it properly). It looks fairy new, see pict. When I get a bit more time I’ll do a motor test to see if it’s operational, I believe I can only test the circuit board when it’s back on the car using actuation test through the scanner?

 

[Troutman]

It looks different to mine inside (gears are similar) but the + and - for the motor seem to be made via those two plugs in the middle and it looks like they just touch the actual motor wires , does that sound correct.?
If so out of curiosity you could put 12v briefly on the motor wires as they're exposed.

 

[W1ghty]

Hi everyone!

I’ve recently noticed my car is feeling sluggish and producing smoke. After doing some checks, I found that the turbo actuator isn’t moving at all. I tested it both with the engine running and revving, as well as with the engine off and then switching ignition to position 2, but there’s no movement. I unclipped the control arm to check if the turbo veins were stuck, but they move freely.

The actuator looks fairly new and has a G-88 label on it. After some research, I realised it's likely an aftermarket part from Amazon, not the original OEM Garett/Hella actuator. I took it off the car to confirm, and it’s indeed not the original part.

I’ve read that this issue might be linked to the swirl flap motor failing. Apparently, due to its location, it can get covered in oil from the turbo which might lead to electrical problems. I’ve also seen posts suggesting that the turbo actuator and swirl flap motor are on the same circuit, causing Fuse 44 in the engine bay to blow. I checked the fuse, but it seems fine, so I’m not sure if that’s relevant in my case.

I’m wondering what else could cause the turbo actuator to stop working, aside from the fact that it’s a cheap replacement? If it turns out to be a quality issue, does anyone know where I can get the OEM part? Or maybe someone has a spare in good working order that I could buy? I contacted my local dealer, but they said I’d need to buy the entire turbo unit with the actuator also they couldn’t give me the part number for just the actuator.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Yep , fuse F44 covers the actuator, inlet port motor , exhaust back pressure sensor and egr . A fault in one can be hard to pin down.
Put a 4.k ohm resistor into the middle two terminals of the power supply to the inlet port motor (swirl flaps) ..cost £1
Spray clean the hole on the underside of the ebps , next to the turbo ..watch the chrome washer underneath it . 24mm deep socket .
Put some small amount of high temp grease on the worm gear inside the actuator .
Change F44 anyway .
If that doesn’t work , the ebps is £60 new , they don’t last forever .
Someone like Essex turbos does recon actuators , you don’t need a new turbo with it unless talking to a main dealer .
Try a can of spray turbo cleaner into the front of the turbo when the car is running .

 

[johnsco]

Someone like Essex turbos does recon actuators , you don’t need a new turbo with it unless talking to a main dealer .

I highly recommend Essex Turbos ...
A very knowledgeable and helpful company to deal with.