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W211 OM642 EGR valve removal and clean. How easy?

DSM10000

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MX5 1.8 Sport, Range Rover 5.0 SC, BMW X1
There are very few things I bother to repair / replace myself on our cars now (the MX5 being the exception as it is easy to lift and work on as access is good to most parts) but at 125,000 miles I suspect the EGR valve on the W211 will have a fair amount of crud inside it which can only hamper it's design function. I have also had a few instances of poor acceleration and hesitation which I thought was the turbo actuator but my Indie suggests is the EGR sticking and compromising airflow.

Access to the EGR on this engine is good being high up at the bulkhead on the right and it seems to be held in place by only two bolts with a couple of electrical connectors and coolant pipes being attached to it.

Has anyone removed and cleaned one on these engines? If so do you need special tools to remove the clamps for the coolant pipes and I assume there is a gasket between the valve body and housing?

Once removed is it a case of methodically picking out the carbonised deposits and for the persistent deposits are there any recommended liquids to dissolve them ?
 
There are very few things I bother to repair / replace myself on our cars now (the MX5 being the exception as it is easy to lift and work on as access is good to most parts) but at 125,000 miles I suspect the EGR valve on the W211 will have a fair amount of crud inside it which can only hamper it's design function. I have also had a few instances of poor acceleration and hesitation which I thought was the turbo actuator but my Indie suggests is the EGR sticking and compromising airflow.

Access to the EGR on this engine is good being high up at the bulkhead on the right and it seems to be held in place by only two bolts with a couple of electrical connectors and coolant pipes being attached to it.

Has anyone removed and cleaned one on these engines? If so do you need special tools to remove the clamps for the coolant pipes and I assume there is a gasket between the valve body and housing?

Once removed is it a case of methodically picking out the carbonised deposits and for the persistent deposits are there any recommended liquids to dissolve them ?

Funnily enough I'm trying to remove the EGR valve on mine too and your post popped up first on a search.
Mine appears to be welded in and I'm reluctant to try prying it out. So far I've sprayed the mating surfaces with Injector X in the hope that a soak may help while I search for the best way to remove it for a clean.
 
Going to do this myself and have heard alot about how tight the fit is. One guy got it out by mistake by undoing the bolts and hitting full throttle which shot it out, he does say it was not the smartest but if mine does not come out easy i planned to loosen the bolts to see if the pressure will push it out but the bolts will stop it taking off.

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Going to do this myself and have heard alot about how tight the fit is. One guy got it out by mistake by undoing the bolts and hitting full throttle which shot it out, he does say it was not the smartest but if mine does not come out easy i planned to loosen the bolts to see if the pressure will push it out but the bolts will stop it taking off.

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Saw that and tried it with zero success.

A 12” length of 1”X 1/2” and a hammer gently tapping it from the inner mounting loosened it for me.

Carefully cleaned with oven cleaner to clean up the lower end (including the valve seat ) and all was well. Mine wasn’t stuck at all. Nor was it badly coked up in spite of 70,000 miles of Asda and Tesco’s worst[emoji3]

403c8de7617cdb0e5764f680f9c67022.jpg



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And I did put some machine oil down the valve stem and lightly lube the spring and roller under the plastic cover


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Just seen this and would not have thought of it but it worked well, removal starts at 4;40.
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Just seen this and would not have thought of it but it worked well, removal starts at 4;40.
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Looked a bit rough on the plastics. Especially when the loop caught around the electrical connection point.


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Saw that and tried it with zero success.

A 12” length of 1”X 1/2” and a hammer gently tapping it from the inner mounting loosened it for me.

Carefully cleaned with oven cleaner to clean up the lower end (including the valve seat ) and all was well. Mine wasn’t stuck at all. Nor was it badly coked up in spite of 70,000 miles of Asda and Tesco’s worst[emoji3]

Thanks for this:

Did you need any special tools to remove and refit the water pipes and did you use a new gasket?


403c8de7617cdb0e5764f680f9c67022.jpg



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No water pipes on my EGR valve. No gasket either. Just carefully removed O ring at base prior to using oven cleaner. Refitted it with some lubrication.


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Ok just done this tonight as although i don't think it's the cause of my limp mode i was curious to prove to myself that it wont be full of crap and after 125000 miles there was some soot but think the real blockage is in the manafold hence why my swirl flap motor burnt out and also that i could get it off. I have done a video but apologise for being that guy who makes the video after it's done as i hate that type of video myself but i had a **** it moment stormed out got the tools and done it in literally under a minute. The video is just trying to show how it was done. Now i have been running this with the bolts loose for a week with no success and spraying fast release on it although i think this was just evaporating due to the heat. So all i used was e12 to remove bolts and a hammer and a 20mm wood chisel, the chisel is better than a screwdriver i have seen some people using due to it's sharp end and tapper, although it did still cause a small bur on the egr itself which was removed with a file but no damage to engine side surface. Place chisel on lip and had handle sitting on top of turbo heat shield and two firmt taps with club hammer and i could see it move and another two gentle taps to get it up about 3mm sprayed some fast release down it twisted it and it came right out no problem. Will link to video when i can get it up to youtube. Hope this might help.
 

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