W212 E63 Front brake pad DIY change.

AMGeed

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Having bought the pads last year for my E63, I thought it time to change them over, so along with a few photos, here is my DIY guide to change them. Probably took around an hour and a half, most of which was jacking up the car, making it safe to work on, and cleaning the inside of the wheels whilst they were off.

Tools required were-: 13mm socket and ratchet, 4mm long drift punch, hammer, large flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, brake pad grease, brake pad spray cleaner, WD-40, brake fluid, new wear sensor and pads.

I cracked the bolts whilst the wheel was on the ground, then lifted the car on the jack, made it safe for working on and removed the wheel. Bonnet opened and the brake master cylinder cap removed.
20210713_101134[1].jpg


Next I removed the 13mm bolt that runs behind the steel spring plate that holds the pads in the caliper. Using a pair of pliers, release the brake pad wear sensor. It's just a plug that pulls out. Only one sensor and its on the drivers side, outside pad.
A quick spray of WD-40 on the pins and carefully, using a 4mm drift, punch the retaining pin out from the bottom of the retaining spring. This releases the tension on the spring and allows the top pin to be knocked out easily.

Pins and spring put aside for cleaning, use a wide bladed screwdriver to ease the pads back and allow the pistons to retract. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I had to draw about 20ml of fluid out to prevent it overflowing the cylinder. I could see the pads were badly worn, and pulling them out confirmed they were close to cutting the sensor. I got my moneys worth out of these! (33365 miles assuming they were the original ones)

20210713_101631[1].jpg

20210713_115304[1].jpg

A good time to see the OEM Part #'s and Mercedes have a different number for each pad in the caliper? Notice also that both Brembo and Textar are stamped into the pad? 20210713_120352[1].jpg

Replacing the pads is just a reversal of what has been done already. A new sensor was put into the outside pad and brake grease placed on the back of the pad and on the face of the anti squeal shim. The new TRW low dust pads fitted perfectly and the top pin was replaced first. A bit tricky lining up the pin, pads and pin holes, but after doing one, the other side was simple. You need to compress the steel plate to allow the bottom pin to be fitted. Again, easier on the second caliper.
20210713_111227[1].jpg

Wheel refitted, car lowered and bolts torqued to 130ftlbs. Checked the fluid again and pressed on the brake pedal a couple of times and the pedal stayed hard as expected. No air was allowed to enter this way and as the fluid was changed last Sept, I felt pushing newish fluid back into the master cylinder was easier than opening the bleed valves and possibly having a major problem if one sheared off. I've read of it happening here at a main dealer!

The other side went far quicker and after a quick run out, the brakes feel fine with zero squeal and a decent bite.
Finally, the TRW low dust pads I got from Autodoc for around £65 last year. They fit other models (CLS63 for one) and it remains to be seen how much dust they do produce.
An easy DIY that saved me around £200 at least in labour plus the satisfaction of knowing it was pretty simple to do.

20210713_121852[1].jpg
 
Last edited:

W1ghty

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Having bought the pads last year for my E63, I thought it time to change them over, so along with a few photos, here is my DIY guide to change them. Probably took around an hour and a half, most of which was jacking up the car, making it safe to work on, and cleaning the inside of the wheels whilst they were off.

Tools required were-: 13mm socket and ratchet, 4mm long drift punch, hammer, large flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, brake pad grease, brake pad spray cleaner, WD-40, brake fluid, new wear sensor and pads.

I cracked the bolts whilst the wheel was on the ground, then lifted the car on the jack, made it safe for working on and removed the wheel. Bonnet opened and the brake master cylinder cap removed.
View attachment 115666


Next I removed the 13mm bolt that runs behind the steel spring plate that holds the pads in the caliper. Using a pair of pliers, release the brake pad wear sensor. It's just a plug that pulls out. Only one sensor and its on the drivers side, outside pad.
A quick spray of WD-40 on the pins and carefully, using a 4mm drift, punch the retaining pin out from the bottom of the retaining spring. This releases the tension on the spring and allows the top pin to be knocked out easily.

Pins and spring put aside for cleaning, use a wide bladed screwdriver to ease the pads back and allow the pistons to retract. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I had to draw about 20ml of fluid out to prevent it overflowing the cylinder. I could see the pads were badly worn, and pulling them out confirmed they were close to cutting the sensor. I got my moneys worth out of these! (33365 miles assuming they were the original ones)

View attachment 115667

View attachment 115668

A good time to see the OEM Part #'s and Mercedes have a different number for each pad in the caliper? Notice also that both Brembo and Textar are stamped into the pad? View attachment 115669

Replacing the pads is just a reversal of what has been done already. A new sensor was put into the outside pad and brake grease placed on the back of the pad and on the face of the anti squeal shim. The new TRW low dust pads fitted perfectly and the top pin was replaced first. A bit tricky lining up the pin, pads and pin holes, but after doing one, the other side was simple. You need to compress the steel plate to allow the bottom pin to be fitted. Again, easier on the second caliper.
View attachment 115672

Wheel refitted, car lowered and bolts torqued to 130ftlbs. Checked the fluid again and pressed on the brake pedal a couple of times and the pedal stayed hard as expected. No air was allowed to enter this way and as the fluid was changed last Sept, I felt pushing newish fluid back into the master cylinder was easier than opening the bleed valves and possibly having a major problem if one sheared off. I've read of it happening here at a main dealer!

The other side went far quicker and after a quick run out, the brakes feel fine with zero squeal and a decent bite.
Finally, the TRW low dust pads I got from Autodoc for around £65 last year. They fit other models (CLS63 for one) and it remains to be seen how much dust they do produce.
An easy DIY that saved me around £200 at least in labour plus the satisfaction of knowing it was pretty simple to do.

View attachment 115670
Nice job very neat , isn’t it 130nm torque ?
 

HB

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Roger is available for nationwide E63 brake pad changes. He will pay for his own fuel, lunch etc.
If Carlsberg did brake pad changes …..
 
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AMGeed

AMGeed

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Just a quick update on the low dust pads. Very pleased and after 50 miles or so, zero dust on the front wheels!
Previously they would be covered in dust after a normal 5 mile run around town.

For anyone with a W212 E63 and other similar models who wants a good pad with extremely low dust I can recommend
TRW GDB1734DTE. Got mine from Autodoc last year and paid around £65 inc delivery. Took about 7 days to arrive, although I appreciate the final cutting of ties with the EU may have changed things.

Also, forgot I had this trolley jack. Fits perfectly under the sills (looks tight but there is over an inch clearance) so I'm after a rubber/plastic jack pad that fits a small trolley jack head and slots into a square jacking point.
20210715_085645[1].jpg
 

Aidroos

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Just a quick update on the low dust pads. Very pleased and after 50 miles or so, zero dust on the front wheels!
Previously they would be covered in dust after a normal 5 mile run around town.

For anyone with a W212 E63 and other similar models who wants a good pad with extremely low dust I can recommend
TRW GDB1734DTE. Got mine from Autodoc last year and paid around £65 inc delivery. Took about 7 days to arrive, although I appreciate the final cutting of ties with the EU may have changed things.

Also, forgot I had this trolley jack. Fits perfectly under the sills (looks tight but there is over an inch clearance) so I'm after a rubber/plastic jack pad that fits a small trolley jack head and slots into a square jacking point.
View attachment 115739
What is the rating on these pads? Textars I get OEM are FF. Aftermarket brembo and myle are HF. I want extreme stopping power.
 

DSM10000

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What is the rating on these pads? Textars I get OEM are FF. Aftermarket brembo and myle are HF. I want extreme stopping power.
In trepidation of starting another tyre debate the friction between your tyres and the road surface is the ultimate arbiter of braking force.
 

Aidroos

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In trepidation of starting another tyre debate the friction between your tyres and the road surface is the ultimate arbiter of braking force.
Finally you made it here. I wanted you here. Which brake pads do you get installed on your 320?
 

DSM10000

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Finally you made it here. I wanted you here. Which brake pads do you get installed on your 320?
Finally I made it here? Unsure t do you mean? 🤔

My car has MB pads and discs. They work, they fit, job done!
 

Aidroos

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Finally I made it here? Unsure t do you mean? 🤔

My car has MB pads and discs. They work, they fit, job done!
I have not learnt how to send private messages here. Last time I called a member to a post, another member was offended, who perhaps represented the member I tagged.
So FF grade. I'll wait for someone else to point out better rated pads.
 

DSM10000

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I have not learnt how to send private messages here. Last time I called a member to a post, another member was offended, who perhaps represented the member I tagged.
So FF grade. I'll wait for someone else to point out better rated pads.
You need to have 30 posts in active forums (not off topic forum) and be a member for 30 days before you can send and receive personal messages.

Try to relax a little when reading and interpreting replies?

Your written English is superb but with diffeent languages it is easy to lose or misinterpret context 👍👍
 
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AMGeed

AMGeed

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What is the rating on these pads? Textars I get OEM are FF. Aftermarket brembo and myle are HF. I want extreme stopping power.
I have no idea on the rating of these pads. You could probably find out if you are really interested.
The reviews I read are good and in my limited experience of them so far, they feel fine. Not as extreme as the Brembo/Textars that were removed, but these are barely bedded in and I haven't tried a hard stop yet.
I bought them mainly for the lack of dust they are meant to produce, although obviously they need to be able to pull up a £180+mph 2 ton car with no problems. Time will tell how good they really are.
 

Aidroos

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You need to have 30 posts in active forums (not off topic forum) and be a member for 30 days before you can send and receive personal messages.

Try to relax a little when reading and interpreting replies?

Your written English is superb but with diffeent languages it is easy to lose or misinterpret context 👍👍
Much obliged towards your kindness. Perhaps, I would take it as an appreciation of your knowledge, if you point me out to a member who can guide me towards the highest rated brakes. I will not be around for 27 days.
 

Aidroos

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I have no idea on the rating of these pads. You could probably find out if you are really interested.
The reviews I read are good and in my limited experience of them so far, they feel fine. Not as extreme as the Brembo/Textars that were removed, but these are barely bedded in and I haven't tried a hard stop yet.
I bought them mainly for the lack of dust they are meant to produce, although obviously they need to be able to pull up a £180+mph 2 ton car with no problems. Time will tell how good they really are.
Thank you for your response. I sure did try, prior to troubling, you out for the rating. I'll keep looking under the data spec sheets. When the brakes settle and you do try them on heavy, do post back your feelings here.
 

Doodle

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They're not rated. The ratings that Aidroos speaks of are an American system, which means that pads intended for the European market won't necessarily have them.

Braking systems are a balancing act, simply shoving in a set of grippier pads is not necessarily going to give a desireable result, and could well come out worse. HF-rated pads would feel terrible, that denotes the pads get LESS grippy as they get warmer, basically permanent brake fade. As has already been mentioned, you can't brake any harder than your tyres allow so if you can get the ABS to activate, then they're already good enough. If you explain what the end result you're actually trying to achieve or specific symptoms you're trying to cure (high speed fade, for example), then it might be possible to give a meaningful answer.
 

Aidroos

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They're not rated. The ratings that Aidroos speaks of are an American system, which means that pads intended for the European market won't necessarily have them.

Braking systems are a balancing act, simply shoving in a set of grippier pads is not necessarily going to give a desireable result, and could well come out worse. HF-rated pads would feel terrible, that denotes the pads get LESS grippy as they get warmer, basically permanent brake fade. As has already been mentioned, you can't brake any harder than your tyres allow so if you can get the ABS to activate, then they're already good enough. If you explain what the end result you're actually trying to achieve or specific symptoms you're trying to cure (high speed fade, for example), then it might be possible to give a meaningful answer.
Supremo, yes indeed. I want to have the least high speed fade and stronger bite on the disc, regardless of the end result.
 

Doodle

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Supremo, yes indeed. I want to have the least high speed fade and stronger bite on the disc, regardless of the end result.
Are you prepared for:

Pad and/or disc life of less than 1000 miles?
Braking deposits welding into the surface of your wheels
Extreme grabbiness when cold
Low speed squealing
Pad material transfer (i.e. when you're stopped at the lights holding the car on the brake)

Because that's what the grippiest pads will give you. They're designed for racing use, not road.

Now, back in the real world I'd be considering a moderately upgraded "fast road" pad that still has some everyday civility, along with bigger discs for the extra leverage and potentially a larger pad area to manage temperatures if required. Not the cheapest way of doing things, but the proper way.
 

Aidroos

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Are you prepared for:

Pad and/or disc life of less than 1000 miles?
Braking deposits welding into the surface of your wheels
Extreme grabbiness when cold
Low speed squealing
Pad material transfer (i.e. when you're stopped at the lights holding the car on the brake)

Because that's what the grippiest pads will give you. They're designed for racing use, not road.

Now, back in the real world I'd be considering a moderately upgraded "fast road" pad that still has some everyday civility, along with bigger discs for the extra leverage and potentially a larger pad area to manage temperatures if required. Not the cheapest way of doing things, but the proper way.
I don't mind upgrading the discs and pads with AMG. But the wheels are 17 inch. 235/55 tires. You know where this will go. Any racing grade merchandise is bound to fail early.
 

Doodle

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Bigger brakes need bigger wheels. Somewhere a compromise has to be made.
 

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