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2003 cl500

Vito

Member
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
53
12/2003 Full Loaded with part service history Silver VGC 105K.

Is there anything I should be specifically looking for before purchasing ?


Many thanks.
 
Suspension!
Check it out for opperation and leaks....rest is just what you'd check on most cars...rust, service history etc, damage etc....
MB Tech Warrington (not sure where you are) charged me £150 for a full check up inc full Star Diagnostic....ok I did this after I bought it...but then you know exactly whats wrong if anything and can budget....
Bought mine knowing it could have suspension fault and it did....luck was on my side though and it was just the control valve blocks....did a DIY repair and all sorted now!!
So mine ended up being quite the bargin...but at £1000 per corner if the shocks have issue it can get quite costly.
Mine on 108k now and 02 plate so similar age and miles....tho mines an AMG.

I went with my gut and thats sometimes what you have to go by....if you know anything about cars you'll know if its a good un or not!!

Good luck....fantastic cars...Love my CL to bits....will love it more if it sails through its MOT in next few weeks!!!
 
Many thanks.

It's the Coupe and seems in excellent condition but will give it a good looking over.
 
Cl500

Yeh, no offence but CL (Coupe Lightweight) kinda gave it away...:)

Its 5ltr V8 same engine I had in my S500...bullet proof if looked after...

They tend to have a lot of toys so do not forget to have a right good play...

i.e. make sure everything electrical works...seats go up, down, back forth, windows, rear headrest, blinds etc you get the idea (and fun too) also if you find anything that does not work its a good bargaining chip...some of the faults can seem expensive..
Mine for example, the drivers wing mirror glass auto dim fluid had gone (glass was dark) told to seller that would be an expensive repair for a new wing mirror...cheeky I know, but help me get the price down...
Then fixed it myself with a new glass off ebay for less then £15!!!:bannana:

Wanna see some pics of it, or link to the advert if poss...come on don't be shy....or block out the price if you don't want everyone to know what your paying...
 
Don't be afraid to press and try every button and feature.
 
Suspension. If possible check it early in the morning. If any side is lowered it could be costly repair.
Electrics. Touch every button, move seats and steering wheel in all directions. Fold/unfold both mirrors and check signals afterwards. Check instrument cluster.
Check rear wings and engine bay for rust.
And post some photos. ;)
 
Check the windows. They're double glazed and like any sealed unit, the seal can pop. If there's the slightest sign of milkiness or damp between the panes it's an expensive fix.

Check where the rear roof pillars meet the bodywork. You can get dissimilar metal corrosion there, although I have a feeling MB had sorted it by then. Look for bubbling under the paint.

Something I read when 'researching' these beautiful cars was to operate the windows a few times using the one touch mode. They should go up and down smoothly. If they hesitate at the halfway point even slightly, for some reason it's an indication of other serious electrical faults in the offing.
 
Something I read when 'researching' these beautiful cars was to operate the windows a few times using the one touch mode. They should go up and down smoothly. If they hesitate at the halfway point even slightly, for some reason it's an indication of other serious electrical faults in the offing.

I don't think the rear windows have a one-touch "up" mode, do they? Down yes, but on my car at least there's no detent feel when you put them up.
 
Correct.
 
The door and rear window glass on a CL are not double-glazed units, this is misleading to suggest that they are; on the contrary, its 6mm laminated glass. To suggest double-glazing implies that there is an air gap between the two panes, there isn’t, these units are constructed as one with 2 x 2.5mm panes bonded together with a 1mm plastic membrane polymer known as Polyvinyl Butyral (PVB) and unfortunately, PVB is hygroscopic in nature, meaning, it absorbs moisture.

If the glass panes are exposed to excessive moisture/water adjacent to the edge of the membrane, then the bond to the glass is reduced and delaminating can and does occur. This is often due to allowing excess moisture/water to collect in the area of the door/window frame apertures (especially after washing the car and not drying the glass edges) where the front and rear window glass overlap, or poor installation where measures intended to reduce moisture/water build-up is negated. The edge of the PVB membrane “must” be allowed to ‘breathe, similar to laminated front and rear screens.

The CL glass exhibits delaminated evidence on the vertical/horizontal edge on the doors and the horizontal edge on top of the rear windows. If you look at the rear window glass on the CL, you will also notice that it has a bonded frame to its vertical edge where the front glass can overlap forming a sealed joint or lap joint when the doors are closed. Similar to many types of laminated glass, replacements are very expensive on this model of car. The idea of this laminated process gives rise to the many tinted colour designations anyway; it’s the membrane that’s tinted here, not the glass.

I haven’t got the time at the moment to go into all the bodywork/paint issues. To put things in to perspective though, these cars are of the hybrid design, in other words, they don’t rust as has been suggested by others on here, they are made of magnesium, extruded and panel sheet aluminium with several body panels (front wings, boot lid and spare wheel carrier) being of the typical polymer plastics. The only steel components on the vehicle are the front end chassis and crumple zones, the rear boot floor panel/chassis sections, the internal “A” post pillars and the headlamp/bonnet slam panels. All of these steel components are specifically designed and fitted primarily as the steel construction absorbs any crash energy deformation far better than that of any aluminium equivalent (safety cell construction zones).

The aluminium elements do have a tendency to develop corrosive characteristics; but not rust, aluminium is actually very prone to corrosion, however, aluminium corrosion is referred to as aluminium oxide, an extremely hard material that actually protects the aluminium from further corrosion, but left unattended, it will eventually develop into disrepair, just like its steel counterpart would. As I said, If I do get time over the weekend, then I’ll come back on to the forum and explain what to look for and the causation of the defects, and there are some defects to be aware of in these cars.

Regards,

Dash1
 
Stratman said:
Check the windows. They're double glazed and like any sealed unit, the seal can pop. If there's the slightest sign of milkiness or damp between the panes it's an expensive fix.

Double glazed units do not "pop" per se; not that this is relevant, because this particular car does not have double glazing.

A double glazed unit is made up of two panes of glass, a spacer bar between the panes, and of course air between the panes. There is no airtight seal on these units. The quality of the unit is mostly determined by how air tight the unit is made but they are not completely airtight. Hidden within the spacer bar is a hydroscopic material (silica gel). Quality of a unit is determined by the amount used. Glass units manufacturers can make a cheap DGU by using less silica gel, which you can't see as it is hidden within the spacer bar.

Over time, as moisture works its way between the panes, it is absorbed by the silica gel. When the capacity of the silica gel is full, the moisture condensates on the inside of the unit when it's cold, and appears "milky" or steamy when the unit is warm.
 

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