2012 C207 E350Cdi - Coolant Flush and Replacement

[MrGundam]

Evening all,

My motor has 110000 miles on it and I think is probably on the original coolant. Looks fine and no running issues at all but was hoping to flush with Liquid Moly radiator cleaner whilst I am doing the job and replace with new MG coolant and deionised water. Most guides seem to simply bleed the radiator when engine is cold however that must leave a lot in the engine with thermostat closed? Also If I add the flush and run as per instructions I will then have it left in the system.

Anyone know best method to fully flush and refill the system on the E350Cdi? And is it OK to flush with the solution or inviting problems?

Thanks

 

[alecmascot]

You're just making work )
The initial radiator fill is good for 15 years......

 

[MrGundam]

You're just making work )
The initial radiator fill is good for 15 years......

Probably right, but the PS fluid didn't need changes and when I did it was horrid!

 

[alecmascot]

Probably right, but the PS fluid didn't need changes and when I did it was horrid!

You could always use a tester:

Pardon our interruption...

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

Just get the car in the air on ramps or stands, take the under tray off and use the plastic screw to release the valve, and the coolant will come out.

Replace the coolant and the car will self bleed itself because the reservoir is at the top most part of the engine. No bleeder screws to worry about. Give it a google.

Remember: If your car has ever had the oil cooler seals done, remember that it will have probably already had new coolant when they did that.

I did mine a year or so ago and there was no real need, the coolant looked new. I can see that someone had already messed with the plastic plug screw, so it had been done at some point before I had it.

 

[Bellow]

My understanding is that the corrosion prevention additives deplete so even of the frost protection is OK, the corrosion protection isn't necessarily adequate. I could be wrong but am definitely right in saying to not add cold coolant or flushing agent to a hot engine - unless you want to crack major castings.
The thermostat will likely have a small (always open) bleed hole to facilitate the process.

 

[Justintyme]

Just get the car in the air on ramps or stands, take the under tray off and use the plastic screw to release the valve, and the coolant will come out.

Replace the coolant and the car will self bleed itself because the reservoir is at the top most part of the engine. No bleeder screws to worry about. Give it a google.

Remember: If your car has ever had the oil cooler seals done, remember that it will have probably already had new coolant when they did that.

I did mine a year or so ago and there was no real need, the coolant looked new. I can see that someone had already messed with the plastic plug screw, so it had been done at some point before I had it.

Thats the way I did change in my last Merc, 2010 E class 200 w212 o1. Jacked it up, loosened the bleed screw on the bottom water jacket, removed the expansion tank pressure cap, and let it all flow out....while it was still hot. ( not scalding unbearably hot, but hot enough still) when it stopped flowing, I replaced the bleed screw, and filled the expansion tank, ran the engine, left it running until it stopped "Burping". But I've always had a sneaking suspicion that it was not quite a100% change, especially where the heater matrix was concerned,,,I know that there's a tiny hole in the thermostat, but that's only there to prevent a complete blockage in the system, and I'm pretty sure that it would take a long time for the complete contents to drain 100% through it. Anyway, next change is coming up on the 2014 Eclass, and this time, I will measure the amount drained and match it with amount listed in the manual. There is another possibility that I must check out,,,,and that is if it is possible to electrically open the thermostat using the iCarsoft CR Pro. We will see in the next week or two,

 

[Petrol Pete]

Probably right, but the PS fluid didn't need changes and when I did it was horrid!

PS fluid . One thing often ignored . I replaced mine circa 110000 miles , it was a frucking putrid , black , watery , smelly liquid. Probably never been change since the car left Germany in 2006. just over one litre in the steering rack doing all that work for all that time .

Changing it is. cheaper than buying a new steering rack.

 

[Justintyme]

Personally, when I get a new car, I always change all of the fluids, regardless of what the service history says. Pays to be sure,