722.9 Auto box problem. No drive at all. Any help appreciated.

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It isn't much of a consolation, but you haven't wasted your time pulling the valve chest and electroplate. The pump is mounted in the bellhousing, but it goes in from the inside. It's a gearbox remove and strip to replace it, so the valve chest would be coming out anyway.
 
Here's a link to one I did...

 
You know what . The moment the OP mentioned oil leaking from the TC when the engine came out I thought to myself 'that don't sound right' but I don't have enough experience to comment and couldn't quite work out how oil might be lost .

But Jobsworth has just just sorted that out.
 
Here's a link to one I did...

Is this going to be a massive job going forward from here or am I best getting my gearbox out and just taking it to a gearbox specialist. Reading what your saying makes complete sense and totally agree. I will be cancelling the TCU job in the morning.
 
It probably isn’t something to take on yourself unless you are brave. The gearbox is quite heavy, but not beyond the realms of removing yourself if you have an extra pair of hands. It’s a shame you aren’t closer to me ;)
A ring round with a description of what you want done should find somewhere that knows what they are doing.
 
It probably isn’t something to take on yourself unless you are brave. The gearbox is quite heavy, but not beyond the realms of removing yourself if you have an extra pair of hands. It’s a shame you aren’t closer to me ;)
A ring round with a description of what you want done should find somewhere that knows what they are doing.
Do you think a second hand box would be an easier fix for me to do as a scrap yard not far from me have 3 boxes for around £300 each with 3 month warranty. Although they do seam a bargain. What's a new oil pump going to run me?
 
You’ll need exactly matching numbers or the ratios will be different. If the ratios are wrong it’ll be in limp permanently. You’ll also need to put your electroplate in it, because coding. A bit of a minefield. I’d fix the one you have.
 
You’ll need exactly matching numbers or the ratios will be different. If the ratios are wrong it’ll be in limp permanently. You’ll also need to put your electroplate in it, because coding. A bit of a minefield. I’d fix the one you have.
And last question. If I trailer the car to a gearbox specialist what do you think the cost would be for them to sort it out at around £50ish an hour?
 
I’d struggle to do the whole job in a day. Probably 8-10 hours all told. I work on my own though. Extra pair of hands, might turn it round in a day. Tight though. I don’t like to rush with jobs like this. Everything has to be cleaned. Don’t want to be doing it twice.
 
I’d struggle to do the whole job in a day. Probably 8-10 hours all told. I work on my own though. Extra pair of hands, might turn it round in a day. Tight though. I don’t like to rush with jobs like this. Everything has to be cleaned. Don’t want to be doing it twice.
Jobsworth just read your whole post that you linked in and it sounds exactly how I put the engine back onto the gearbox with an 8mm gap between the bell housing and engine thinking it was the dowels. :wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash: Just wondering if I can phone in sick!

The thinking behind it is that the engine only needs to slide onto the spline out of the box and happy days like a manual box but obvs not 😭😭😭 So a cheap oil leak repair job is now going to cost me probably £1000+ wish it was the TCU now at £195.

Funny thing is I paint marked everything and didn't turn the engine over while it was out of the car BUT to get the torque converter off the drive plate and the drive plate off I had to turn the crank by 1 degree or so to get an extension bar in the crank sensor hole to lock the drive plate as I was trying to get to the bolts that held the upper sump on behind the drive plate. If I didn't turn the engine that 1 degree it probably would have gone straight back in with no problems. 😢

The oil that came out was from the actual torque converter its self not through the seal in the box to the oil pump as we lifted the engine high on the front to give us a better angle to get it out.

How does it damage the drive pegs inside the oil pump though? Does the drive spline move in and out?

P.s I would love to do the job myself but I don't think I will be able to get the car high enough to get the box out on axel stands and it would be fascinating doing the job as i like doing things i've never done before . I did my wife's Dual mass on her old 2015 BMW 1 series last year but the box was half the size being manual.
 
Can’t quite get from your description there if you pulled the engine out with the torque converter still attached to the engine? You should remove the six bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate and leave the converter in the gearbox bellhousing. The torque converter nose has two little cutouts that go straight onto the oil pump drive. It’s about 8mm deep. An 8mm gap means they weren’t engaged.
 
Can’t quite get from your description there if you pulled the engine out with the torque converter still attached to the engine? You should remove the six bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate and leave the converter in the gearbox bellhousing. The torque converter nose has two little cutouts that go straight onto the oil pump drive. It’s about 8mm deep. An 8mm gap means they weren’t engaged.
Yes I pulled the torque converter with the engine. Ive got you now. Just looked back at the pictures when i had the engine out.
 
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Interesting, so by the mis aligning the engine to gearbox and then tightening the bell housing up put pressure on the pegs, when you thought the dowels were causing resistance it was the oil pump lugs breaking off.
Shame you cannot do this yourself as would be relatively cheap and rewarding.
 
Yes I pulled the torque converter with the engine. Ive got you now. Just looked back at the pictures when i had the engine out.
Oh dear. Big mistake. Sorry.
If you remove the TC from the gearbox, the only way to get it back in correctly is to stand the gearbox vertically on it’s tail and gently lower the TC into place over the splines. You need to jiggle it ever so slightly to feel the oil pump dogs and get them engaged. I have a bent bit of steel scrap thet I then bolt to a lower bellhousing hole to keep it held in.
 
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Again 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 :wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash:

It all makes perfect sense. Been up most of the night thinking about it. Just looked at the 2 pictures and can see where the torque converter slides over the shaft to the seal then locks over the pins. So my torque converter was holding on by next to nothing and when I accelerated on the motorway to overtake a car that was it. So the torque converter is spinning over the shaft with nothing engaged which = NO DRIVE!

I have a gearbox specialist around the corner from my mother in laws where the car is that says they are open today at 10 o'clock so that's where I will be but think they will be closed on a Sunday.
 
Oh dear. Big mistake. Sorry.
If you remove the TC from the gearbox, the only way to get it back in correctly is to stand the gearbox vertically on it’s tail and gently lower the TC into place over the splines. You need to jiggle it ever so slightly to feel the oil pump dogs and get them engaged. I have a bent bit of steel scrap thet I then bolt to a lower bellhousing hole to keep it held in.
Cant you move to North Wales Jobsworth? Its a lovely place. Honest 🤣🤣 Just for 8 to 10 hours?
 

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