A/C re-gassed again.

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Not sure many actually test with air pressure, usually they use a vacuum test which can mask a leak.
At both the places I've used in recent times, their machines have done both a vacuum and pressure test..... its just part of the fully automated system that their AC machines use.
Then I get a little printed piece of paper that shows the pressure and vacuum tests, how long on each, how much refrigerant and oil they removed and how much they put in. Always get this slip if you can so you can check they put in the correct amount...some machines have outdated info and don't fill with the correct amount....as was the case once with my ALFA...too little. Although the machine does say how much its going to fill with before its starts.....ask what it says before they start so you can check on your phone that it's correct
 
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The type of refrigerant and how much is needed is usually on a sticker on the slam panel when you open the bonnet.
 
My wife’s Fiat 500 needed degassing after 10 months so asked for a test ATS said all fine but said LP filler cap was missing for some reason. Degassed and all fine. They did not have a cap to cover the port so I searched the web for one. I zip tied a finger of a rubber glove over the port while I awaited the cap arriving the finger inflates showing the valve was not sealing. The valve is similar to the ones used on a push bike. New valve core fitted using a flit from EBay so no gas escapes then swapping the core. Car fine over a year on. Begs the question why fast fit garages insist on new valve core for road tyres but don’t change them on air can especially as the valves may not have moved since the cars production several years earlier.
A god A/C mechanic will replace the mini Schrader valves during the service , they are cheap , and let's face it the one in the car are most likely to be as old as the car itself.
 
have you all seen the price of the DIY top up bottles at places like Halfrauds these days ! :eek:. Im sure the first one I bought some years back was about £25 , same bottle (R134a) is now £73 , R1234yf ? £100 !

I still have an almost full bottle left and both A/C systems on my cars are spot on (famous last words) so hopefully all will be well this summer.

I see they also sell A/C leak stopper . Anyone on here used it ?
 
I've heard many cases where even with a UV dye, the leak has not been obvious. Some of these leaks are so small they are a nightmare to pinpoint, and most of the air con outfits are more interested in a quick turnaround than spending hours looking for something. Much easier to spend 10 minutes and say it's fine, regass it and take the money.
I recently went to my local fast fit place. They said it'd be unlikely to ID a small leak (6 months since last charge) so advised I seek an A/C specialist.
 
The type of refrigerant and how much is needed is usually on a sticker on the slam panel when you open the bonnet.
True......but sometimes they rely on the preprogramed data in the machine without checking....and sometimes.....like mine....its wrong....they used the same info sticker on the 1.9 version as the very first 2.0 versions......but my 2.0 takes slightly more. The sticker was corrected next model year.....the joys of driving Italian!!!
 
I see they also sell A/C leak stopper . Anyone on here used it ?
I wouldn't, for the same reason as I wouldn't use Radweld, if it's a product intended to seal holes and cracks. If it's just intended to make old seals pliable again, I suppose it might work.
 
And if your car is a few years old, and you are going to get it regassed, it’s probably worth changing the drier canister too. Not a big expense, but dries out any moisture within the system.
 
Did a quick Google , mainly down to EU regulations and the fact that a 'litre' of R134a let out into the wild takes up to 12 years to Pi$$ off via natural absorption .

R1234yf ? ....11 days.

Fair enough.
 

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