Just a quick post to say thank you to @LeeJV for his advice on cleaning products. I didnt ask you directly but a quick post search and I found the information I needed. Loving the forensic detailing channel as well. Thanks again 
Bilt Hamber
- Thread starter BlackPearl09
- Start date
Chrishazle
MB Enthusiast
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- Nov 13, 2008
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- 5,823
- Location
- Nr Ashford, Kent
- Car
- 2008 S204 C220CDI Elegance Estate Auto, 2008 R171 facelift SLK280 Auto.
Their clay is also good when you get to the OCD part of paint correction. Unlike other clays it only needs water as the lubricant where others say to use quick detailing spray. Must admit decontaminating with brake dust remover and tar remover, followed by claying, markedly improved the paintwork of my 968's, but it's a lot of work!
W1ghty
MB Enthusiast
we are going to need some car cleaning shots now buddy
Excellent stuff Bilt Hamber.
I use Slims Detailing it’s cheaper on there, and you earn points to get a little off your next order. Korrosol you can use on your wheels it does just as good job, plus better value in 5 Ltrs.
I use Slims Detailing it’s cheaper on there, and you earn points to get a little off your next order. Korrosol you can use on your wheels it does just as good job, plus better value in 5 Ltrs.
OP
OP
OP
OP
Just a quick foam and shampoo today, i am thinking of getting some clay too!
OP
OP
Cheers for the advice. I did use the auto wheel today and shocked how blood red it turned. Didnt dare leave it on for long!!
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
I'm currently cleaning my car with clay bar, but only one panel at a time due to the time investment required.
Each time I wash my car properly (citrus, snow foam, possibly snow foam again with detailing brush on tricky bits/gaps/badges) I also do a full decon afterwards on a single panel
fallout remover>tar remover>fallout remover>then clay>correct>wax
It takes longer that the whole car for the first stage, but I'm slowly working my way around.
When I get down and close of each panel, I can't believe how much crud is on there and how much OCD it takes to do a proper correction.
Not much fun outside in the cold and wet with limited light. A better job for the summer months.
Each time I wash my car properly (citrus, snow foam, possibly snow foam again with detailing brush on tricky bits/gaps/badges) I also do a full decon afterwards on a single panel
fallout remover>tar remover>fallout remover>then clay>correct>wax
It takes longer that the whole car for the first stage, but I'm slowly working my way around.
When I get down and close of each panel, I can't believe how much crud is on there and how much OCD it takes to do a proper correction.
Not much fun outside in the cold and wet with limited light. A better job for the summer months.
The Bilt Hamber alloy wheel cleaner stinks!
Glad you found my posts useful buddy, you can dilute the wheel cleaner 50/50 with DI water for general maintenance washing too, or use BH auto foam via a pump sprayer 40ml per litre of water.
As for the Clay bars, although they dont need a lubricant, it will inflict marring if you dont use a lubricant or shampoo with the clay, if you're not planning on a paint correction then I'd advise that you use it with a good PH Neutral shampoo rinse off.
Using QD as a lube isn't a great idea as it will leave residue behind.
Using QD as a lube isn't a great idea as it will leave residue behind.
OP
OP
Signed up for the mailing list!! Cheers
OP
OP
Got a few bits from a company called CPC, value range and nowhere near quality of the proper detailing ones. It means I can try the multi cloth method and get a few strengths of chemical mixed up ready.
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
Ah, the garden pressure sprayers. I'm a big fan personally 
For microfibre, I use these cheap Amazon jobs a lot:
White Microfibre 40cm x 40cm
Blue, Green or Pink Microfibre 40cm x 40cm
Whilst not the best quality, they're okay and slightly larger and heavier than some of the other Amazon ones available.
The benefit of going this route (in my mind) is that I can keep cloths separated. I have separate plastic boxes for them.
White for drying (and you can really see if you actually cleaned the car).
Blue for non-water repelling chems.
Green/yellow for water repelling chems/waxes.
This is so I can keep the hydrophobic cloths away from the others/drying cloths/wash mitts, so that I don't end up trying to dry the car with a wax coated cloth.
I keep the green/yellow separate in their own wash cycle, and always wash them AFTER the other cloths.
I use Aldi non-bio liquid to wash the cloths at 40 degrees. Not powder, and tumble dry them lightly for a few minutes to finish off the drying and restore the pile.
For microfibre, I use these cheap Amazon jobs a lot:
White Microfibre 40cm x 40cm
Blue, Green or Pink Microfibre 40cm x 40cm
Whilst not the best quality, they're okay and slightly larger and heavier than some of the other Amazon ones available.
The benefit of going this route (in my mind) is that I can keep cloths separated. I have separate plastic boxes for them.
White for drying (and you can really see if you actually cleaned the car).
Blue for non-water repelling chems.
Green/yellow for water repelling chems/waxes.
This is so I can keep the hydrophobic cloths away from the others/drying cloths/wash mitts, so that I don't end up trying to dry the car with a wax coated cloth.
I keep the green/yellow separate in their own wash cycle, and always wash them AFTER the other cloths.
I use Aldi non-bio liquid to wash the cloths at 40 degrees. Not powder, and tumble dry them lightly for a few minutes to finish off the drying and restore the pile.
OP
OP
Absolutely love this and I am stealing some if not all of these ideasAh, the garden pressure sprayers. I'm a big fan personally
For microfibre, I use these cheap Amazon jobs a lot:
White Microfibre 40cm x 40cm
Blue, Green or Pink Microfibre 40cm x 40cm
Whilst not the best quality, they're okay and slightly larger and heavier than some of the other Amazon ones available.
The benefit of going this route (in my mind) is that I can keep cloths separated. I have separate plastic boxes for them.
White for drying (and you can really see if you actually cleaned the car).
Blue for non-water repelling chems.
Green/yellow for water repelling chems/waxes.
This is so I can keep the hydrophobic cloths away from the others/drying cloths/wash mitts, so that I don't end up trying to dry the car with a wax coated cloth.
I keep the green/yellow separate in their own wash cycle, and always wash them AFTER the other cloths.
I use Aldi non-bio liquid to wash the cloths at 40 degrees. Not powder, and tumble dry them lightly for a few minutes to finish off the drying and restore the pile.
Paulhick
Active Member
D
Deleted member 126251
Guest
Yep, I'd rather pay someone to do it and do something else with those hours.
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
We can't all afford that option
- Joined
- May 10, 2006
- Messages
- 10,486
- Location
- Preston, Lancs
- Car
- S204 C220CDi Sport ED125 (Mr) Kia Picanto Domino 1.1 (Mrs)
Feel free to pop along to Ribbleton and try them out on my car...... I make a mean brew and home made English Muffins!
Chrishazle
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2008
- Messages
- 5,823
- Location
- Nr Ashford, Kent
- Car
- 2008 S204 C220CDI Elegance Estate Auto, 2008 R171 facelift SLK280 Auto.
In my working and earning days I'd have agreed with you, but as a retired pensioner I had the time (and less money!) - first car I did was my 968 coupe and that took 2 weeks , doing roughly one panel per day in summer. Subsequently did the S203, 968 cab and S204, then called it quits and recently sold my DA and pads to another 968 owner, so the SLK will not get the same treatment. However, the SLK paintwork is excellent and blemish free - as it's Fire Opal Red I wonder if it had a respray, but have nothing in the SH to suggest that, and the original supplying main dealer did not reply to my email enquiry!
